Autotek... Any good?

What sub are you looking to drive? Maybe someone here may have a amp they would sell you. I will take a look tomorrow in my storage for something. I know I have 20 or so amps that I'm coming to terms that I most likely will never use. Also some old prefab boxes and subwoofers. Along with my RC cars ,boats , and Trucks I'm not using. I'm working on a new front stage wall along each side anf have some amps and steakers,,,,..;.///////
Shoot me a message about what amps you have

 
I appreciate it, but I would imagine shipping would blow the budget and get any money to a member. I was hoping to upgrade some old equipment I haven't used in a long time, but I don't think it's feasible at the moment so I'm just going to use what I have for now. Anyway, it's an old MTX Thunder 6000 sub. The trouble is it's an 8 ohm speaker so I need a bigger amp. After thinking about it, maybe I should just do what Jeffdachef said and wait to buy a better amp, that way I can upgrade the sub later.
Well let me know I'm pretty sure I can make it work in your price

 
my first and only system so far had an autotek 1200.2(more like 50.2) I got the sub and amp combo off sonic and honestly it satisfied my bass needs for a year or so..had that sub running off a bridge. it was weak af but it banged at the same time. they are allright amps just don't expect them to deliver their promised rms or give out any super clean signal.

 
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HEY GUYS I WAS ON HERE YEARS AGO AND DROPPED IT WHEN MY GRAND DAUGHTER MOVED IN WITH US AND SONS FRIEND BOUGHT MY SUB AND AMP OTHER DAY FOR MORE THAN I PAID FOR THEM 6 YRS AGO., WHICH MADE ME SHOP SO MY ADDICTION HAS RETURNED LOL... I'LL let you know soon i just ordered autotek 1600.1 for $76 but i got the 3 yr warranty and i just have 1 sub ported and well i'm old and don't drive but 400 miles a month so over heating won't be a problem for me (i coulda got a $50 boss) ..not many things as good as they used to be,, hifonics and autotek about the same and hifonics had good stuff 10 yrs ago... all i really need is 400-500 rms at 2 ohm w/ subsonic filter,, it should do that but can't compare to quality of my old vr 600 crossfire and like u i can't afford more $ for little time i'm in car.. i say if u get autotek or crunch get the 1 with highest s/n rating and get xtra warranty for like $5.. however they're are right for even $129 u can get nice amps that have been tested to put out good power @ sonic eletronix..

 
By buying these trash amps you guys are destroying the car audio industry IMO
same could be said for peeps that buy mc donalds all the time (like I do) for food industry., sorry that we are poor.. I've sold $9k systems and had over $3k equipment in last car myself but next time u have to choose between paying light bill or spending $100 less on amp get back to me..
 
same could be said for peeps that buy mc donalds all the time (like I do) for food industry., sorry that we are poor.. I've sold $9k systems and had over $3k equipment in last car myself but next time u have to choose between paying light bill or spending $100 less on amp get back to me..
There's better options for the same money and you buy from amp companies that done lie about their numbers and provide proper decent wattage thats basically equal or better than trash companies.

by buying from companies that lie about their numbers you basically enable them to continually lie without any penalty because sales dictate the market. More garbage sales with inflated numbers just breeds even more low quality products flooding the market while the honest amplifier companies die out or convert to garbage companies as well. There goes the middle ground of quality and budget and you only get two extremes either quality and expensive or garbage.

buy a 2000 watt pyle amp for 80 dollars or a ppi 650 rms amp for 80? guess which one makes more clean power and is miles more reliable? However in the actual market full of ignorant noobs that havent done their research, which company would dominate the marketshare? How many other companies would want to copy to get a piece of the pie? This bloated wattage thing is a cancer on the car audio industry.

ps, if you are that poor to begin with, you shouldnt even be spending a dime on car audio until you get your life in order.

 
I know it's very much a "you get what you pay for" thing, but I'm am trying find a budget amp producing 300-500 watts at 4ohms. I know these amps probably don't hit their stated ratings, but are they better than Boss or Crunch? I read a review on here saying their Mean Machine series is decent, but that was back from 2009, and a lot of things change. Thanks!
I FINALLY GOT MY STREET MACHINE 1600.1... I was shocked., I hoped it would have 400 rms but it must be putting out 600 rms at 2 ohms.. I have friends boss sub in ported box yes boss 12 (box in avatar) and it is rattling car good.. I can actually feel it pushing sub to full excursion when it hits.. I have a little devil stuck to my dash and it's knocking his head off lol.. I had crossfire vr600 (tested at like 715 rms 14.4) I had 1/2 that so like 350 rms from a good amp going to orion hp 12 in same box and this boss sub is hitting harder (not saying it sounds like best in the world but I'm talking about amp) when I swap out for my orion I expect it to be even better.. I gotta say I'm impressed.. now that said it may fry next month for all I know but my guess is u can divide autoteks a/b mono amps rating by 3 and u won't be disappointed..

 
I FINALLY GOT MY STREET MACHINE 1600.1... I was shocked., I hoped it would have 400 rms but it must be putting out 600 rms at 2 ohms.. I have friends boss sub in ported box yes boss 12 (box in avatar) and it is rattling car good.. I can actually feel it pushing sub to full excursion when it hits.. I have a little devil stuck to my dash and it's knocking his head off lol.. I had crossfire vr600 (tested at like 715 rms 14.4) I had 1/2 that so like 350 rms from a good amp going to orion hp 12 in same box and this boss sub is hitting harder (not saying it sounds like best in the world but I'm talking about amp) when I swap out for my orion I expect it to be even better.. I gotta say I'm impressed.. now that said it may fry next month for all I know but my guess is u can divide autoteks a/b mono amps rating by 3 and u won't be disappointed..
typical 4000-10000 watt junk amps. If you condone this, you condone lying and letting the companies know that this is fine. continue flooding the market with cr@p and kill off legit companies with proper products at a basically the same price

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yeah inside that amp don't look good but I saw inside autotek 4000.1 that looked great so unless u saying that's my amp., i'll just be happy with my $76 amp until it breaks.. gotta have something in it I'm telling u it's pushing hard and that's a crappy $50 sub in there right now.. won't know if any real dif in quality til I re install orion but I needed cheapest amp I could find with ss filter that I thought may make 400rms and it works well., how long it'll work idk but I just played hella bass test cd for 20 mins hard @2 ohm and it just got warm...

 
yeah inside that amp don't look good but I saw inside autotek 4000.1 that looked great so unless u saying that's my amp., i'll just be happy with my $76 amp until it breaks.. gotta have something in it I'm telling u it's pushing hard and that's a crappy $50 sub in there right now.. won't know if any real dif in quality til I re install orion but I needed cheapest amp I could find with ss filter that I thought may make 400rms and it works well., how long it'll work idk but I just played hella bass test cd for 20 mins hard @2 ohm and it just got warm...
just letting you know that you dont really need much actual power to get loud. You'd be overly surprised how much power you see when you start clamping amps. Usually wired to 1 ohm your rise will be around 2.5 to 3.5 ohms give or take. so even reputable amps you arent getting your 1 ohm power rating at all unless it has a regulated power supply technology built in.

Also subs can also max out on output. There's a certain point where a cheaper sub wont get any louder regardless of how much power you put to it.

 
I agree especially cheap subs peeps put to much power to them.. u wouldn't believe how many systems we sold 10 yrs ago only had 150 rms per sub or less (Memphis 4 channels) sounded great I had same Memphis subs with much more powerful 500d and many of the cheaper systems were as loud or louder than mine.. #1 because of car #2 subs only move so much no matter how much power u through at it., at some point u r just over working the sub.. my point is my cheap amp made this pos sub almost as orion hp same box same car.. also to be fair to the pos boss sub my ported box is .5 cf larger than boss recommends but just like the 1125rms watt rating (2.5" vc 1125rms please) u know it's like 400rms 500 max rms, I assumed the box size listed was as small as they could list to appeal to most peeps but now I think it might be real to prevent blown subs so sub don't over excurte..

 
I know it's very much a "you get what you pay for" thing, but I'm am trying find a budget amp producing 300-500 watts at 4ohms. I know these amps probably don't hit their stated ratings, but are they better than Boss or Crunch? I read a review on here saying their Mean Machine series is decent, but that was back from 2009, and a lot of things change. Thanks!
ok I finally got my orion hp 12 back in my box (box in avatar) yesterday and omg it's pounds really hard off that street machine 1600.1... peeps will talk junk about them but if u are looking for 400 rms just get autotek 2 channel that says 1500-1600 rms bridged and has at least 40amps of fuses it should do well.. yes they are better than boss amps but some of the crunch amps are gonna be the exact same as the autotek is my guess (by looking at specs for 2 weeks)

 
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