AudioPipe Shutting Down Issue

BMoneyBrett

Junior Member
Good morning forum members,

I hope this is the right subforum to ask this question.

Background

Last week, I made the decision to install a Rockford Fosgate P3-2X12 loaded enclosure in my 2015 Audi A3. The current system is comprised of a Bang and Olufsen OEM amplifier with B&O speakers.

The first modification I made to the system was removing the B&O subwoofer and replacing it with a Pioneer dual voice coil subwoofer mounted free air to the back deck with Memphis sound deadening on the rear deck. I didn't gain much from this, so I decided to step it up a bit.

Materials Used for Installation

I ordered the following components for a bigger, better sub install:

  • Rockford Fosgate P3-2X12 loaded subwoofer box
  • Rockford Fosgate Twisted Paid 6' RCA Signal Cable
  • AudioPipe APCL15001D amplifier
  • XS Power XP2000 battery with a billet aluminum battery mount
  • AudioControl LC2i 2 channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control
  • InstallGear 14 gauge AWG 30' speaker cable
  • InstallGear 1/0 Gauge 25' Red Cable
  • InstallGear 1/0 Gauge 25' Black Cable
  • InstallGear 1/0 Gauge 10-pack Crimp Ring Terminal Connectors
  • InstallGear 1/0 Gauge In-line fuse with 250 Amp Fuse
  • Noico Black 80 Mil 36 Sq Ft Car Sound Deadening


Installation Notes

The installation took a bit longer than expected. I had my local installer, who is a serious audiophile and has won many db drag races before, perform the installation for me. We didn't realize that the factory B&O system needed a wiring harness to plug in the factory subwoofer speakers to the LC2i. Whenever the system turns on, the factory amplifier will go through a self check to see if all speakers are connected. If it detects an abnormal impedance in any of the speakers, it will shut that speaker down. If it detects the positive and negative wires are reversed, the amp will actually reverse the polarity of the connection to correct itself. When we plugged in the factory wires to the LC2i, it would work, then it wouldn't work on the next start up, so we had to get a special wiring harness from AudioControl. Now, the LC2i always works on every start up after the self check. I also had my installer line my 4 doors and the entire trunk with Noico sound deadening.

The Issue

After ~20 minutes, the AudioPipe amplifier would seemingly go into a thermal protect mode for a few seconds before turning back on for a few seconds and then shutting down for a few seconds. This is even after the LC2i has been turned down and the gain on the amplifier is turned down. The bass control knob is almost completely down to nothing and on the factory headunit, the subwoofer and bass knobs are zeroed out. The amplifier will even go into thermal protect mode when the volume is less than 25% up. I know the signal isn't clipping...it was not only tuned by ear, but tuned with a SMD DD-1 to make sure that I wouldn't blow the subs.

My Thoughts

Could the amplifier be going into thermal protect mode because the output voltage of the LC2i RCAs is higher than the maximum input RCA voltage of the AudioPipe amplifier?

Should I get rid of this amplifier and go for either a CAB-1600.1 or Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bdCP?

I purchased 2 cooling fans and some 3M tape. I was planning on hooking the 2 cooling fans to either side of the ports on top of the AudioPipe amplifier to move more air across the motherboard if you thoughts that I should go this route to see if it eliminate the protection mode. I didn't mount the amplifier into that much of an enclosed space, so I thought it would be able to breathe fine without cooling fans.

Video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKouBWD78XQ

 
Is the amp really hot and burning or is it just going to protect everytime you turn it up? If its the later then something else is seriously wrong with your install aka your signal line or your connections or even a stray wire thats shorting out somewhere.

 
Is the amp really hot and burning or is it just going to protect everytime you turn it up? If its the later then something else is seriously wrong with your install aka your signal line or your connections.
Hi Jeff,

Physically, it's getting really hot to the touch. It will go into protect mode when it gets way too hot, even if the volume is

 
Also whats your voltage drop at the amp? as in multi-meter or volt meter straight to the amp's power and ground connections not at the battery.
My Audi is getting some bodywork done right now, but when it gets back, I will read the voltage drop at the amp. That's one measurement I didn't take.

 
40hz, -5dB.
so along with the voltage drop test, if you can get like a cheap RCA to 3.5 mm aux adapter, do the phone to amp test where you just plug the Aux end to your phone and RCAs directly to the amp and play music and see if it still happens. This will narrow it down to something wrong with the signal line or something wrong with the amp connections or the amp itself.

 
My Audi is getting some bodywork done right now, but when it gets back, I will read the voltage drop at the amp. That's one measurement I didn't take.
listen to jeff he kinda likes the ap's but yes i'd get another amp but thats just me.. another guy here had problem with new one, only ran right at 2ohm.. however adjust gain down anyway and make sure u have no bass boost or eq that boost bass on hu.. check ground make sure no paint under it and it's tight..

 
listen to jeff he kinda likes the ap's but yes i'd get another amp but thats just me.. another guy here had problem with new one, only ran right at 2ohm.. however adjust gain down anyway and make sure u have no bass boost or eq that boost bass on hu.. check ground make sure no paint under it and it's tight..
gramps, you are broke why you wasting money on upgraded account!!!

 
so along with the voltage drop test, if you can get like a cheap RCA to 3.5 mm aux adapter, do the phone to amp test where you just plug the Aux end to your phone and RCAs directly to the amp and play music and see if it still happens. This will narrow it down to something wrong with the signal line or something wrong with the amp connections or the amp itself.
That's a smart idea! If it still heats up and goes to protect mode, what would be the problem?

 
listen to jeff he kinda likes the ap's but yes i'd get another amp but thats just me.. another guy here had problem with new one, only ran right at 2ohm.. however adjust gain down anyway and make sure u have no bass boost or eq that boost bass on hu.. check ground make sure no paint under it and it's tight..
The gain is way down, well below the point of clipping/distortion on both the LC2i and the amp and the HU. The ground is solid...no paint under the connection point and it's tight.

 
gramps, you are broke why you wasting money on upgraded account!!!
lol i was waiting, i thought tahoe would get me 1st.. cause i had like 10 full inbox alerts last nite., as popwar said for $3 mo it's worth it not to have to empty inbox every day..

 
lol i was waiting, i thought tahoe would get me 1st.. cause i had like 10 full inbox alerts last nite., as popwar said for $3 mo it's worth it not to have to empty inbox every day..
I admire anybody that considers themselves a "grandpa" and has an amazing audio system! Goes to show that audiophiles don't die with age!

 
That's a smart idea! If it still heats up and goes to protect mode, what would be the problem?
well if the voltages read good from the voltage test, and the phone test still triggers it then it could very well be a bad amp or a short somewhere.

However i'd lower the gain even more first off. Like i said, dont trust that dd-1. many people got fked over by it on both this forum and all the major facebook pages. If you turn it up and it stops getting louder that means you are way beyond clipping.

 
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BMoneyBrett

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