audiopipe 3000.1 cutting in & out!

You're blind if you think those are as reliable and well-built as amps costing twice as much. IIRC John Carr blew 4 or so of his...
doesn't quite mean much.. hell thorshammer blew his 14kd first day he blew a few subs.. doesn't mean they are cheap or shit.. and wasn't johns a competition van? meaning he was probably running em hard along with all his stuff..

 
doesn't quite mean much.. hell thorshammer blew his 14kd first day he blew a few subs.. doesn't mean they are cheap or shit.. and wasn't johns a competition van? meaning he was probably running em hard along with all his stuff..
I don't think a 14kw amp with one 1/0 hookup is a very well designed amp, so I understand that it had issues, whether it be with the single hookup or damage done during shipping(this is what it was determined to be, I believe).

Yes, the amps in John's van were used for streetbeat is USACi, but a seasoned vet blowing that many amps tells me that there's something wrong with the amps, or that they just aren't built to take a beating like others...which is understandable, since they're cheaper amps. Do they even use doubled sided pcb's?

 
doesn't quite mean much.. hell thorshammer blew his 14kd first day he blew a few subs.. doesn't mean they are cheap or shit.. and wasn't johns a competition van? meaning he was probably running em hard along with all his stuff..
exactly. I wasnt saying it is built better than the amps costing twice as much but it is definitely up to par especially for the money! Cant be beat. There are more ap30001ds floating around in daily applications than top brands (rd,sundown etc) in my opinion. How many threads are talking about my sundown broke or rd broke. I have rarely seen a thread or anyone mention anywhere of how crappy their $300 ap30001d amp was. Hmmmm could be a coincidence. Don't believe that get what you pay for saying. Dont mean shit.

 
I just wired my ground to my power in my AP 3000d yesturday and the amp was fine just the fuse was blown. The first time, it only sparked. The 2nd time I touched the ground wire to the negative of the battery was when the fuse blew. This was a mistake wiring shit in the dark, but the amp was completely fine. It played great after I switched the ground and power back. I also don't have the amp mounted down to anything. Its just being held in place by rca wire and power and ground wire. lol. This amp is built right to not mess up after my mistake. My US md2d amp took a shit on me when I did that a while back.

 
Hah i talked to john carr on the phone a while back. It was just a coincedence(sp), I was selling my truck on craigslist and he calls me and wants to buy it and mentions he is into car audio and tells me about his van and stuff. I almost traded my truck for his van lol. But with no equipment in it lol...but I couldnt see it as a daily driver.

 
The remote wire?? maybe this was my problem cause I just have the smallest wire for remote. thought it didnt matter much since it just turns it on.

 
I didn't either, but once I put a relay on my remote wire I never had problems with my sub amp again //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif. its worth a try, relays aren't expensive and are easy to put in behind your HU in the dash

 
I didn't either, but once I put a relay on my remote wire I never had problems with my sub amp again //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif. its worth a try, relays aren't expensive and are easy to put in behind your HU in the dash
could i use my dmm to measure remote signal strength? what is it supposed to be at?

or for testing purposes, i could just use a jumper from the B+ right?

 
Just do it the fail proof way Like I have done for the past 8 years. Just get a decent gauge wire (at least 16 gauge) and tap it into your windshield wiper fuse beneath your dash or whereve your fuse box is located. That has never let me down. I have done that with over 30 different amps.

 
if your going to do that just get a relay and a fuse block, wire it(REM) to a battery fused close to the battery then through the NO contacts on the relay. wire the relay to the h/u acc power to it input and ground everything.. it will **** the relay in once the h/u turns on.. you will never have turn on/ off pops wired like that..

to the guy who says you can get better stuff for the money, you have no clue.. electronics markup plays a huge roll, but no way in hell audiopoop will sound as good put out as much nor be as relabile as the high dollar high end amps like sundown, MMats, RF, AB,SPL dynamics etc... its like saying a saturn will compete with a bmw..

 
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