Audio inconsistencies

jwentland

CarAudio.com Newbie
New to the forum, have been a basic bass junkie for most of my life... so here's what I've got: Two pioneer/premier dual 4 ohm subs. Wired to 1 ohm. Hifonics 2400 watt amp. Have had the setup since 2017. In the last month or two I've noticed odd playback. Just something that isn't the same. Is there a way to verify amp output is correct? The subs measure .7 ohm.
 
New to the forum, have been a basic bass junkie for most of my life... so here's what I've got: Two pioneer/premier dual 4 ohm subs. Wired to 1 ohm. Hifonics 2400 watt amp. Have had the setup since 2017. In the last month or two I've noticed odd playback. Just something that isn't the same. Is there a way to verify amp output is correct? The subs measure .7 ohm.
Hifonics are over rated power wise so you're probably getting about 800w at 1ohm maybe 1200w.


Here's how to wire your subs to 1 ohm
 
New to the forum, have been a basic bass junkie for most of my life... so here's what I've got: Two pioneer/premier dual 4 ohm subs. Wired to 1 ohm. Hifonics 2400 watt amp. Have had the setup since 2017. In the last month or two I've noticed odd playback. Just something that isn't the same. Is there a way to verify amp output is correct? The subs measure .7 ohm.
That would be correct, if your reading the DC resistance. that would be considered a 1 ohm load. Is it the Brutus 2400.1 or the ZXX-2400.1D? The Brutus will put out 2400 watts at 1 ohm, the ZXX, maybe 1500. ? Which premier (Champion Pro, SPL series), subs? Only a few of the Pio's can handel anywhere near that amount of power from either amp model.
 
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.7 Ohms, something is definitely off. Most times the resistance measures higher than specified. Take out the subs, measure individually and physically scrutinize them.
Is that common to subs and individual drivers only? All speakers (I.e. multi driver with crossover) I’ve ever measured for static resistance have been lower than their impedance rating.
 
Is that common to subs and individual drivers only? All speakers (I.e. multi driver with crossover) I’ve ever measured for static resistance have been lower than their impedance rating.
When using a multimeter, using the 200 OHM setting, you will get a resistance reading that (in my experience) is always slightly and sometimes substantially lower that the the actual impedance rating. I just measured a couple of Dayton tweeters, rated at 8 ohms, the dc resistance was 6.2 and 6.1 respectfully. A pair of Cerwin Vega mids, rated at 8 ohms, DC reading, 7.2, so a reading of .7 for a 1 ohm wired configuration would be most Likely correct.
 
When using a multimeter, using the 200 OHM setting, you will get a resistance reading that (in my experience) is always slightly and sometimes substantially lower that the the actual impedance rating. I just measured a couple of Dayton tweeters, rated at 8 ohms, the dc resistance was 6.2 and 6.1 respectfully. A pair of Cerwin Vega mids, rated at 8 ohms, DC reading, 7.2, so a reading of .7 for a 1 ohm wired configuration would be most Likely correct.
OK. Maybe I was reading 1espinoza's post right. I thought he said a low reading than the rating was bad/unusual.
Started to wonder if I shoudl check my subs, lol
 
Is that common to subs and individual drivers only? All speakers (I.e. multi driver with crossover) I’ve ever measured for static resistance have been lower than their impedance rating.
Now that you ask, I think I got that backwards! I just thought of impedance rise and that an amp will be ok from lower readings because of it. I will correct that now.
 
Now that you ask, I think I got that backwards! I just thought of impedance rise and that an amp will be ok from lower readings because of it. I will correct that now.
Gotcha'.
I was thinking maybe the crossover and the various drivers in a "box" speaker would have an effect and cause it to be different than what you expressed about the raw driver.
LSNED
 
That would be correct, if your reading the DC resistance. that would be considered a 1 ohm load. Is it the Brutus 2400.1 or the ZXX-2400.1D? The Brutus will put out 2400 watts at 1 ohm, the ZXX, maybe 1500. ? Which premier (Champion Pro, SPL series), subs? Only a few of the Pio's can handel anywhere near that amount of power from either amp model.
Sorry about the late reply. I believe they are the champion pros.. if I remember right they're 1200 watt or 1400 watt peak subs. And it's the brutus. The issue may have come from Dolby atmos being turned back on from system updates on my phone. It's got better since.. but still not quite the same as it used to be. I did measure it at .7 ohms.. but idk if that's too far out of spec ? I definitely will be updating me head unit and cables to the amp soon.. i have a really cheap unit it the car.
 
.7 is well within range, and with rise, your systems is considered a 1 ohm set up. That amp is capable of 2400 watts. The dual 12s. around 2000 (1000 each) so I'd be careful and set the gains accordingly. Not sure about Atmos in the car environment, familiar with it in the HT environment. In my Atmos HT, there are different settings for settings for stereo and Atmos for the bass. In the home, you designate which of the signals go where. Usually, all the normal program material is designated accordingly and where it can be done (dedicated subs, etc.) then the LFE channel is tasked with handling the very low end or dedicated Low Frequency Extension. Usually, you have the option of summing the LFE channel with the mains in stereo as an option but you have designate it that way for the system to know what you want to do. Never been fan of running any kind of "surround sound" in the car, not my thing. If you are using some kind of dolby playback, I'd disable it and check what the settings are for the channels that are getting the bass and what kind of bass they are getting. MAy want to pull the subs of the drop off is substantial and see if one of them is not working.
 
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