ATTN: Blazer owners *PIC*...

i just got my sx18 in my 2dr blazer, andi have the EXACT same problem. Im trying to figure out a way to kill the sound as well. might have to start taking the truck apart //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
I think I've figured out a way to fix this issue, EpicenterDesigns said that the vents are easily accesable after you take out the inside rear panels. He said that you can cover the vent up easily with some dynamat, but I'm outta dynamat so I may use some gorilla glue duct tape to cover the long vents and then some epoxy/caulking around the surrounding area, this should be enough to prevent the flap noise. With this done I will have pretty much no exterior vibrations or noise.

When I first loaded the BTL in my blazer I had it setup with port/sub facing rear hatch and it got hella freaking loud, but my rear window was literly poping out a 1/2" to 3/4" and I was very worried taht it was going to break, plus I didn't like the sound of glass hitting metal. I then decided to face the sub/port towards the front window and that really helped out with preventing the rear window from popping out and also elimanted what little hatch noise I had left after dynamating.

With the sub/port facing towards the front of the blazer not only did it elimante what rear hatch noise I had but also made the bass travel extremly far outside of my vehicle and sound very clean at the same time inside of the cab. I played Young Jeezy track 17 almost at full volume and made walk around my blazer about 50-75 feet away and it sounded incrediable from all angles, as I would get to within 10 feet of my truck I would start to feel the bass vibrating my pants, it was awesome. I know it's not all about how it sounds outside of the vehicle, but for those who do have blazers and want it to sound as clean from the outside as it does on th inside I would advise dynamating that headliner as much as you can, because if you don't your gonna get a nasty metal flexing sound from both the inside and the outside of the vehicle.

Yeah I'm surprised you used that much on the headliner/hatch... Ant at Second Skin recommended 160 feet of Damplifier Pro to deaden the WHOLE Blazer.
Unfortunately I will be putting in a similiar setup in the same truck sometime REAL soon, I was afraid of those weird *** vents being a problem.
I forgot to add, that 150sq.ft also included doing the rear sides of the back hatch and about 10sq.ft. on each door. But ya most of it is on the area that flex's and vibrated the most which is the roof and rear hatch. Dont worry Kenny, if you do what I did and am going to do you will be happy. I'll post up a follow up letting you know how this gorillia glue duct tape and epoxy/caulking fix's the falp noise from the rear pillars.

Thanks for the complaments above everyone:D

 
Glad to hear you got it figured.

I was curious about that back hatch glass. Its too bad there isn't a way to secure it to the frame at the ends to keep it from flexing.

 
I didnt have that problem with my blazer (that I remember, lol), but you might want to remove the pillar cover back there and see if you can stop it from the inside.
LOL, I could just imagine seeing expanding foam crumbs shooting out my rear vents when driving down the road bumping it, haha //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Glad to hear you got it figured.
I was curious about that back hatch glass. Its too bad there isn't a way to secure it to the frame at the ends to keep it from flexing.
I know, I'd like to keep the sub facing the rear hatch since it builds a little more pressure inside the cab, but that rear window just cant take it. There is only one latch in the middle of the rear window holding it down. If there were two more latches holding it down and locking it in place I bet that would prevent it from popping out.

 
I had the best luck in my blazer with the sub up & ports back. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
As soon as I get some free time I'm going to build a Sub up port back "CRX Style" box around 30hz and see how it sounds in comparision to my current box...

btl5no3.jpg


 
I don't think those vents are functional/ let air out or else you would have water leakage problems. That blazer looks goofy with the body kit...it makes the wheels look tucked. I think you need wider wheels with a lower offset

 
I don't think those vents are functional/ let air out or else you would have water leakage problems. That blazer looks goofy with the body kit...it makes the wheels look tucked. I think you need wider wheels with a lower offset
Ya there is no point of those vents IMO, at least of what I can tell, but they do let out a hellova lot of air when the bass is up, but somehow never let any water in. Ill be able to figure out how they function once I remove the internal panels.

Had to get that offset that I have now so when I do my 4/5 Beltech drop they will barely tuck in the fenders. If you go any wider you have big time rubbing up front, but I agree as of now with my current ride height wider would definetaly look better.

Here is a pic to show a better angle of how the wheels will be able to tuck in the fenders once I do the 4/5 drop...

tuckwheelsyj9.jpg


These plans to do a 4/5 drop are a long ways off, I may decide to not do the drop and sell these wheels then gets some 22's with black center and a chrome lip to fill in the fender gap perfectly.

 
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