ATTENTION everyone Running 2000watts or more!

I run 1500 daily, not quite 2k but i dont see much more difference. Stock 105amp alty, Big 3, red top under the hood, yellow top in the trunk, and I have no issues with dimming or anything

 
most i've ever stretched it was 4kw off a 220amp HOalty and 1 d34 yellow top up front. trick with that was 6 runs of 1/0 between the alty and YT, with 1 pos and 1 neg run back to the amp. battery got a solid charge and the amp sucked as much as it could with the 1 run each side.

ANY upgrade to the electrical system typically helps, but if you're not gonna pay attention to every detail and only beef up some things and leave the alty stock, i recommend these.....

-stock battery

-yellow top or equal to/stronger battery for the back. sealed AGM batteries are always nice

-2 runs of 1/0 from front to back including the big 3 with dual 1/0, and ground to the chasis. fuse the postive runs on both sides of each battery. if you do dedicated negtive runs then you dont need to do the big 3 besides the alty to battery. i ground my runs to the alty negitive posts.

-solid grounding points.

- avoid playing your system hard when the rpm's are low. mainly when you're stopped. this also considerate for people who dont want to hear your amazing bass at intersections, as well as take stress of your electrical system. at least rev your rpm's up when you do want to bump in while stopped. trust me it will help. I've noticed less voltage dip by not stressing the electrical as much when an HO alty isnt in there.

If you wanna really run some juice (which is fun as hell to be able to feed beast *** amps), get an HO alty of at least 200amps, do dedicated negative runs, and beef up both batteries if not add more. If you ever want to do more runs next best step is dedicated negative runs. if you're gonna not use the chasis for a ground i'd say a starting point is 3 or 4 runs pos AND neg so 6 to 8 runs total).

Other wise anything more than 2 positive runs and a chasis ground wont do much improving. even after useing 3 positive runs and a chasis ground i didnt find much improvement, but when i went from that to 3pos 3neg it was very nice improvment.

hope this was helpful. good luck man.

p.s. go for 4-5kw //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif trust me

 
I run 2k (depending on which sub I'm using at the time) with stock electrical. Only 1/0 wire from the amp to the bat. Not even big 3. I see a little dimmage but not much.

03 Ford F-150.... 105 amp alt.

Jon
Ditto this.

Beefy Autozone battery, 1/0 wiring, no Big 3 (yet), stock 90A alt.

Haven't checked my voltage drop because it's never been an issue... a slight headlight dimming at high high power, and now that I'm using a an ~1800W A/B sub amp, it's slightly worse. But still not been enough to concern me yet.

I've run 2000+ for years off this same setup. I keep telling myself I am gonna upgrade the alt and add another battery, do the Big 3, etc.... I just never get around to it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Hell, my 1/0 run is now about 8 years old and still just fine. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
hey snoopdan are you sure thats right?

i found this at bhs1.com

"When designing a battery room, ventilation requirements need to be taken into consideration. Lead acid motive power batteries give off hydrogen gas and other fumes when recharging and for a period after the charge is complete.

 

Proper ventilation in the battery charging area is extremely important.

A hydrogen-in-air mixture of 4% or greater substantially increases the risk of an explosion. The concentration of hydrogen should be kept below 1% to provide a safety factor.

4% hydrogen really isnt that much, and supposedly it "substantially" increases the explosion risk.

an answer would be much appreciated as im having trouble deciding how to use extra batteries in my suv while not having to upgrade to $250+ deep cycle batts.

 
i run just over 3700 watts RMS out of three kicker amps. i run a 240 amp old stinger alt. three runs of 0awg 2 yellow tops and one blue top. i never dip under 13.8 no dimming no strain. this is in a f150

 
UH, no. Not unless you overcharge your battery's with an external battery charger and boil the shit out of them. Remember kids, when you boil water/acid batteries you create home made hydrogen which is explosive. however, the concentration is soooo low that it will never ignite with even as much as 20 batteries in your trunk. So in short, you can add as many batteries and fumes arent an issue.
x1000...I have 6 of them in the trunk of my 64 running in series at 72V (but that is another story //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/santa.gif.e1ec9cf2e0a0dd232ad35aa594a126d0.gif), which get beat hard!

 
I run a XXX-6500 @2ohms on 16+V. I am using two 2200 cca 16v batteries and a BatCap 8400. This is good for two days of bumping and when needed i back the car into the garage and plug it into the Batcap charger which takes care of it all. I do have a 300A alt but with it not connected I have no dimming, kinda cool.

BTW- batteries just don't porduce hydrogen, they also give off sulfur dioxide which is quite poisonous. Hydrogen is mainly explosive because it gathers when in close quarters. The amount of hydrogen given off is also dependant on hard or fast they are charged. if you are causing a heavy draw on the batteries they will produce more hydrogen. If you really want to see something drop a pair of plyers between the terminals and run! Liquid or not all batteries vent...Polo. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
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