Are these crossovers still good? Just got em from Mylows10

thats why i asked how i know what pF to buy. fared is a rating for cap usually in pico's, im a biomedical major so i know basic circuitry. Am i going to have to call CDT?

 
Farad is the SI unit for capacitance. Pico is a prefix in the metric system to denote 10^-12. Capactiors are not always label in pico terms, but it is pretty common. also the voltage value is important.

you also dont know what kind of capacitor was there, ceramic, electrolytic, ect ect

might want to try some online rescources.

 
I just recieved a message from mylows10 saying that the tweeter protector was bi passed. That he recieved them like that and they work fine, so i guess ima go see what they sound like

 
All it is Is tweeter protector is bypassed. They still work perfect. If you want some different crossovers I can send you some different ones. But like I said they work great. Hook them up and you will see. That's how I bought them. From another guy on the forum here and that's what he told me. I have used them and they do work

 
thats why i asked how i know what pF to buy. fared is a rating for cap usually in pico's, im a biomedical major so i know basic circuitry. Am i going to have to call CDT?
Yeah, I'm aware of what a capacitor is, I'm an electrical engineer so...

 
im a biomedical major so i know basic circuitry. Am i going to have to call CDT?
Why would a biomedical major have to know about basic circuitry? I sure hope they are not training you goons into putting electronics into our bodies. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/up2something.gif.dd110ecf3ae4b76050d87598f2f8de7c.gif

Yes, you will have to call CDT. The tweeter crossover capacitors are for cutting frequencies below X point, thus "protecting" the tweeter. It is usually a ceramic capacitor in this position.

 
As i stated in another thread of yours on the same subject, i wouldn't use those crossovers.

#1 they aren't made for the speakers you are using.

#2 they have been hacked.

do you even know the crossover points and slopes? have you compared the recommended crossover points and slopes for the drivers you are using and have you compared those points and slopes with your intended locations/aiming?

run active and save yourself the hassle. or build your own.

the deal you made, the trade, is still fair even without the crossovers.

on the side note - biomedical has a decent amount of electronics ingrained in it. for example, there are procedures that use the resistance of the body to allow for cauterizing. so you need to understand volts, current, and impedance in order to properly set up the machine.

 
Why would a biomedical major have to know about basic circuitry? I sure hope they are not training you goons into putting electronics into our bodies. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/up2something.gif.dd110ecf3ae4b76050d87598f2f8de7c.gifYes, you will have to call CDT. The tweeter crossover capacitors are for cutting frequencies below X point, thus "protecting" the tweeter. It is usually a ceramic capacitor in this position.

Apparently sometimes the hospital will want us to change components on boards and what not. I built a power supply and ecg from scratch a few semesters ago lol

So i just hooked it all up and the tweeters just sounded like they had a wooshing noise or a white noise coming from them. Im not sure what there suppose to sound like lol that how there suppose to sound?

Also lows ure PM's are full...

 
As i stated in another thread of yours on the same subject, i wouldn't use those crossovers. #1 they aren't made for the speakers you are using.

#2 they have been hacked.

do you even know the crossover points and slopes? have you compared the recommended crossover points and slopes for the drivers you are using and have you compared those points and slopes with your intended locations/aiming?

run active and save yourself the hassle. or build your own.

the deal you made, the trade, is still fair even without the crossovers.

on the side note - biomedical has a decent amount of electronics ingrained in it. for example, there are procedures that use the resistance of the body to allow for cauterizing. so you need to understand volts, current, and impedance in order to properly set up the machine.
i dont know anything about any slope or w/e u said.

So basically i should try and find some hertz crossovers?

What does active mean exactly? Thanks guys, i know im not to savvy sometimes lol

 
yea, i would just put those crossovers in the garbage or part them out. you could reuse the inductors if you have a tool that can measure inductance, but i would consider the caps and traces as damaged.

active means you use crossovers in the amplifier, head unit, or processor to filter the power going to the speakers. it's fairly efficient since the amp doesn't produce power that is wasted through the crossover, and you can eliminate the phase shift associated with passive crossovers. you can also fine-tune crossover points and settings based on your specific drivers and installation. you do need to be careful with active as the wrong setting can give low frequencies to tweeters, which will destroy them quickly.

i can't find good literature on your amp to know if the crossovers let you run active. you would want a bandpass crossover on the Hertz and a high pass crossover on the DD tweets.

you can get active crossovers for 2-way or 3-way pretty cheap. but you would need to change your wiring as the tweeters would have their own amp channels and the woofers their own channels. this means you lose your rears (not always a bad thing).

Parts Express sells crossover parts and boards to build your own passive crossovers. you'll need to factor a few variables into the design of a passive crossover. step one is determining the recommend low pass on the Hertz and recommended high pass on the DD tweets.

 
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That doesn't look like an exploded cap. It looks like someone rigged up something to replace the slow blow fuse that was once there.

I could be wrong, but I already see 2x caps & 2x coils; meaning 12dB slopes for both tweet & mid. There's 3 resistors (two for the tweet & 1 for the mid to maintain linearity) and the only thing I see missing is a fuse/bulb that many higher end components have used since the 80's.

If you have some alligator clips, connect both sides the best you can. Hook up some junk speakers, even a bookshelf, and try popping the inputs w/a 9v battery...or cell phone battery; doesn't matter.

 
i agree it's not a blown cap, but "tweeter protection" which could be a bulb or thermistor. my concern is that they were modified by someone else who obviously drove the speakers too hard. additionally, he has audible issues.

FYI on tweeter protection

The Why and How of Tweeter Protection

i would also agree with the slope being 12dB/oct and resistors (but this doesn't matter because it is a CDT crossover). he should know what the recommended crossover points and slopes and any shaping resistors are for his exact speakers.

this is an example of why i don't recommend mixing up crossovers with different brands/models.

there is a lot of time and effort in the development of crossovers. there is a trial period where prototypes are tested. especially with higher end component sets - the crossovers are fairly specific and involved.

 
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