Are current ratings BS?

i'm always for building my poast count...so talk away....but i know you've seen diffrent 1/0 some will fill the connector some will barely fill a 4 ga connector...some is aluminum some is copper...some is copper coated aluminum...they rate them the same...common sense knows they arn't the same
Yes, I have definitely seen that, but this is not what I'm asking.

Say you take a 20 ft. piece of knu kolossus flex 1/0 wire.

Can it support a 300a at 12v and at 120v? Or only 250a?

 
Funny you say that though, because Iasca and engineers rate it for continuous use, but wire manufacturers rate for intermittent. Look at welding cable, they rate 300 amps on 1/0 as well. Which is very very wrong to do.
Weird, I've never seen a welding cable chart that showed 300amps for 1/0...I've always seen around 180-200amps, sometimes lower or higher. I don't know what Iasca is thinking, but anyone with common sense can probably tell that 1/0 cannot handle a continuous 300amp draw without some sort of time restriction, because heat will obviously become an issue with that much amperage over an extended period of time.

 
True, but voltage is a concern really, cause 300amps at 12v is a lot different than 300 amps at say 600v. When they test these cables what is the testing voltage?
Let's just assume that your 20ft run of 1/0 has a resistance of .01 ohms. With a 300A current flowing through that run of wire, the voltage drop would be 3V regardless of the voltage applied. The wire would have to dissipate 900w over its length as well.

 
Why don't you just flush your money down the toilet? Or maybe burn it....
You sir have no understanding of electrical yourself, so I would watch what you say...lol.

And I quote you.....

you are an idiot if you think the best ground in a vehicle is the battery //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
where is the battery grounded?

OP--- the best ground would be directly to the chassis, but since it's highly unlikely you can access it, on any piece of the frame (free from paint/primer), as close to the actual chassis as possible.
 
Let's just assume that your 20ft run of 1/0 has a resistance of .01 ohms. With a 300A current flowing through that run of wire, the voltage drop would be 3V regardless of the voltage applied. The wire would have to dissipate 900w over its length as well.
Yes, but are wire manufacturers not supposed to recommend the amps based on a percentage of drop from total volts avail? A 3v drop in a 12v system is 25%. Whereas a 3v drop in a 600v system is a 0.5%

 
You sir have no understanding of electrical yourself, so I would watch what you say...lol.
And I quote you.....
You're still saying that it's better to run a 12-15ft ground wire from your amp to battery rather than a 1-3 ft piece directly to the chassis? You're a fucking moron.

 
lulz....i love newbs
I'm not a newb //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

& 2 runs of 1/0 for the big 3 is a waste of money //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 
You're still saying that it's better to run a 12-15ft ground wire from your amp to battery rather than a 1-3 ft piece directly to the chassis? You're a fucking moron.
Are you really for real? Hell yes it is better to run a properly sized wire straight back to the battery. Please enlighten me as to why you think the chassis is the way to go.

 
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