anyone with a Precision Power BK1800.1D ??

[tc300 10+ year member]

well i got my bk1800.1 in the mail friday and got it all put in except my dumba$$ forgot to order a fuse for it so i have to wait till tomorrow for a 150 amp anl fuse (calls for 160 amp but cant find them anywhere except for around $20 online along with shipping) because no where around my area carries them! only sizes i could find were 100, 200 and 250 WTF is that? anyways ill keep an update on how it performs once the fuse is in. very beefy heavy amp weights in at 15 lbs. seems to be a nice quality built amp for sure! only time will tell tho. sorry for camera focus problemView attachment 26544696

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The black ice is twice as heavy as the vfl.. If not more. I got offered 300 for the black ice lastnite so i sold it. Neighbor kid did not want to wait over the weekend to have one shipped so he made an offer I could not refuse!!! Hahaha

You could get by with using a 200amp fuse.. I plan on getting a smaller 2 channel and prolly another 1800 to hang onto..

 

[05pontiac08 10+ year member]

200a fuse wont hurt if your ready to get bumpin'
Thanks for the gut shots, but I would have tested it before breaking the warranty seal if there was one

Got the fuse yesterday. All Hooked up last night in the pitch black. It seems something isn't right. Doesn't quite hit like I feel it should.

And no warranty seal I triple checked lol so not a problem man

 

[black05alti]

What ohm load is it wired to at the amp?

 

[05pontiac08 10+ year member]

What ohm load is it wired to at the amp?

Its wired to 1 at the amp. I think its all because I switched my set up all around. I have my sub and port aiming in the cabin and I got it shoved all the way forward in the backseat opening so its like a walled trunk.

 

[black05alti]

Its wired to 1 at the amp. I think its all because I switched my set up all around. I have my sub and port aiming in the cabin and I got it shoved all the way forward in the backseat opening so its like a walled trunk.

A lot of people get louder by pushing the box all the way to the back of the car

 

[Mattymatt]

This is an older thread, but for what it's worth, I gave in and emailed them to ask about the THD specs. I got a response today saying that they test at .061%. For what it's worth....

 

[Mr_Andy]

I got one of these the other day. $183 down the toilet. The input sensitivity is backwards, meaning I set the potentiometer at about where 4v would be (0.2-6v range) to match my Alpine CDE-147BT and got little to no output. The only appreciable THUMP came when I'd plug in / unplug the remote gain control. Then I started messing around with the HU adjustments. Finally I stumbled across the phase reversing and it made the oomph a little more noticeable yet. I have 2 shallow Alpine subs I planned on putting in the box for this amp to drive, but currently theres two Kicker 10" CVT's that I planned on watching go 'POP' from this amp driving too hard. Nope. These 400RMS subs (wired in parallel for 2 ohm load) are eating the claimed 1100RMS this paperweight is throwing at them all day long. Not even that nice hot plastic smell of the voice coil getting hot. Nada. No way this amp is anywhere near rated power.

What is this 'subsonic xover' for right next to the low pass crossover for? It ranges from 10-50Hz. ?

Any insight is appreciated

 

[Freeman]

I got one of these the other day. $183 down the toilet. The input sensitivity is backwards, meaning I set the potentiometer at about where 4v would be (0.2-6v range) to match my Alpine CDE-147BT and got little to no output. The only appreciable THUMP came when I'd plug in / unplug the remote gain control. Then I started messing around with the HU adjustments. Finally I stumbled across the phase reversing and it made the oomph a little more noticeable yet. I have 2 shallow Alpine subs I planned on putting in the box for this amp to drive, but currently theres two Kicker 10" CVT's that I planned on watching go 'POP' from this amp driving too hard. Nope. These 400RMS subs (wired in parallel for 2 ohm load) are eating the claimed 1100RMS this paperweight is throwing at them all day long. Not even that nice hot plastic smell of the voice coil getting hot. Nada. No way this amp is anywhere near rated power.
What is this 'subsonic xover' for right next to the low pass crossover for? It ranges from 10-50Hz. ?

Any insight is appreciated

..............

 

[platinumjason]

I got one of these the other day. $183 down the toilet. The input sensitivity is backwards, meaning I set the potentiometer at about where 4v would be (0.2-6v range) to match my Alpine CDE-147BT and got little to no output. The only appreciable THUMP came when I'd plug in / unplug the remote gain control. Then I started messing around with the HU adjustments. Finally I stumbled across the phase reversing and it made the oomph a little more noticeable yet. I have 2 shallow Alpine subs I planned on putting in the box for this amp to drive, but currently theres two Kicker 10" CVT's that I planned on watching go 'POP' from this amp driving too hard. Nope. These 400RMS subs (wired in parallel for 2 ohm load) are eating the claimed 1100RMS this paperweight is throwing at them all day long. Not even that nice hot plastic smell of the voice coil getting hot. Nada. No way this amp is anywhere near rated power.
What is this 'subsonic xover' for right next to the low pass crossover for? It ranges from 10-50Hz. ?

Any insight is appreciated

If Ported set sub sonic 1/2 octave under box tuning.

 

[bgowdy 5,000+ posts]

people say these are based off of the Rubicons, these look nothing like the Rubys.........?

 

[Mr_Andy]

Apparently a few changes have occurred in only a short amount of time with this series. They advertise acrylic covers but mine has a brushed aluminum painted black. I'd prefer metal over plastic anyway, not only for durability but heat dissipation as well. They cheapened things up with their terminal lugs tho, I've heard people that have allen screw fasteners on theirs but mine are just #2 phillips.

For the sub sonic filter - I have it in a 1 ft^3 sealed box, so I guess theres really no difference where I put this setting (10-50Hz) as this enclosure is not really hitting any of those frequencies anyway. I guess this feature would only really apply in a bandpass enclosure where the lows are accentuated all the more?

If I can say any good things at all about this paperweight, they would be that a) it delivers it's severely overrated power without heating up at all. Mind you it was 20 degrees here today, but it stays cool even when run hard for long periods. b) it doesnt clip at all while delivering this modest power. c) well, I'm out of good things to say already.

 

[michaellane 5,000+ posts]

Wtf everyone else was happy with theirs I thought

 

[Mr_Andy]

If you want an inexpensive ~1000 watt mono sub amp stable at 1 ohm but whose 'features' or controls are lackluster and backwards at best, this passes muster.

If you want an inexpensive amp that performs at its claimed power, has all it's teeth, and controls properly marked and functioning, lean more towards urban Audio Works or Jensen.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I got one of these the other day. $183 down the toilet. The input sensitivity is backwards, meaning I set the potentiometer at about where 4v would be (0.2-6v range) to match my Alpine CDE-147BT and got little to no output. The only appreciable THUMP came when I'd plug in / unplug the remote gain control. Then I started messing around with the HU adjustments. Finally I stumbled across the phase reversing and it made the oomph a little more noticeable yet. I have 2 shallow Alpine subs I planned on putting in the box for this amp to drive, but currently theres two Kicker 10" CVT's that I planned on watching go 'POP' from this amp driving too hard. Nope. These 400RMS subs (wired in parallel for 2 ohm load) are eating the claimed 1100RMS this paperweight is throwing at them all day long. Not even that nice hot plastic smell of the voice coil getting hot. Nada. No way this amp is anywhere near rated power.
What is this 'subsonic xover' for right next to the low pass crossover for? It ranges from 10-50Hz. ?

Any insight is appreciated

Also no offense man but you sound like you have absolutely no idea what your doing with the settings if you dont even know what subsonic filters are and how the gain knob normally looks like YES its commonly called a gain knob not a pentiowhatever and THE GAIN KNOB IS NOT BACKWARDS! THATS HOW THE KNOB LOOKS LIKE ON 90% OF THE AMPS ON THE MARKET LOOK LIKE. ALSO just because your head unit pre out voltage is 4 doesnt mean you put the gain knob on 4v...

Try this, for the Head unit, have the sub level max, bass boost 0, Low pass filter 80, Equalization flat, loudness off

amp settings: subsonic filter off, Low pass filter close to 80, bass boost off, 0 degrees for phase setting if your subs are normally set or 180 degrees if your subs are inverted. MOST important thing is to learn how to properly set your gains with -6 db 50 hz test tone and a digital multi-meter. Do a quick google search on this method. DO THINGS RIGHT before making these Ignorant claims.

Hell if you dont have a multi meter, you can even set it by ear. the gain knob is from left = minimum input voltage to right = maximum voltage. Turn your head unit volume to a level where you normally listen to with the mids and highs then slowy turn the knob from left to right till you get the amount of bass desired dont go past 70% of the way.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Wtf everyone else was happy with theirs I thought

he's a noob talking smack about stuff he doesnt even know how to use properly.