Amps are just shutting off, not enough power?

And now I just blew a 60 amp fuse on the sub amp side of the fuse block at half volume. This install is going just ****ing great:furious:

 
Your wiring is inadequate. Sure the power cables show 13V once the amps shut down. You only get a drop in voltage when there is curent flowing. Stop the current flow (turn off the amps) and the voltage drop will cease. The 1000/1 needs a 4 ga cable all its own, and me personally I would use 4ga to the 300/4 as well. You should be running 2ga as a minimum from the battery to the distro block and 4 ga from there. Also, just because you sanded to bare metal doesn't mean that you have a good ground. The point that you grounded to might not have a good path to ground itself. You also need to check every connection all along the power wire: in and out of under hood fuse, battery terminal, in and out of the distro block, connections to the amps themselves, etc. Also check the continuity of your underhood fuse. I have heard of the ANL fuses looking good, but being cracked and testing bad.

 
Well I just got back from Pep Boys and they tested my battery. Turns out it was trashed, I watched the machine for the entire 30 minutes too so I know they were'nt lying just to make a buck. It's understandable though, the previous yellowtop was run in my 95 Ranger in the dezert a lot under hard conditions for about 2 years. Guess it just gave up on life lol. Anyways I dropped a new and larger yellow top in that I bought at Pep Boys and HOOOOOOOOOOOOOLLLLLLYYYYYYYYY FUUUUUUUUUUCCCCCKKKKK. What a difference. All my gains were set all the way down from before and this sub is still louder then anything I've ever owned BY FAR. Thanks for all the help and suggestions, and in the near future I'm gonna redo all the wiring with larger guage wire but for now I'm just glad it's up and runnign and now I can go and tune it.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/offwall.gif.29a91b9b265d47af4b8e33fc5b558d18.gif

 
See out of every problem it could've been, I'm glad it was the battery. I'd much rather buy a new battery and drop it in then have to buy a new alternator and install that. I knew something was weird with the battery when I called my buddy that has two 12" dub sevens in a blowthru box in an f150 that runs 3 high wattage orion amps (not sure exactly which ones) and 3 capacitors. All of that off of a stock alternator and a yellow top. So I figured if I have 2 amps, 1 cap, and 1 sub, my stock alternator should definitly be able to push all that compared to what he was pushing.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

SkwurlyFab

10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
Thread starter
SkwurlyFab
Joined
Location
SD
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
23
Views
3,253
Last reply date
Last reply from
SkwurlyFab
IMG_20260506_140749.jpg

74eldiablo

    May 22, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
design.jpeg

WNCTracker

    May 22, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top