Amp question

[Tb0ne]

I have a Bassworx RS210RG Reference Series Dual 10" Sealed and i have two Alpine Type-S SWS-10D4 on the way currently on backorder can i run this setup at 1 ohm stable with dual 4 ohm vc or will it only drop to two? The amp question is what would pair best with these subs in a sealed enclosure,I currently have two old and tired JL audio 10's in the box and they are running off a JL jx-500?

I have a stock electrical system in a 2006 jetta tdi not sure of the alt. specs but would assume 100 amp at the least? Upon further investigating i find that it is a 140 amp alt. stock.

Thanks for an advice in advance!

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[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Depends upon if the amp is stable @ 1ohm load and if the subs are dual 4 ohms each.

 

[Tb0ne]

The subs are true 4 ohm duals and yes i will be looking for a 1 ohm stable amp just really looking for input as far as the wattage i should be looking for in an amp i guess? The subs are rated at 300 watts each rms but wiring in parallel will drop the ohm load will this also drop the rms top wattage?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

As big as you want. Get the biggest you can afford so you can run it backed down and you will already have it when you are ready to upgrade.

 

[Tb0ne]

LOL Funny you should say that LosIsATool my backorder got squashed by Sonic Electronix so i sniffed around and found some 10" type R's instead for just $100 more than the type S were going for! Now i'm guessing a 3000 watt class D amp should be more than enough and i can run it at around half power appreciate the input guy's maybe back with more questions but happy for now!

Thanks again!!

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Slow down killer. Which 3000 watt mono? Some say 3000 but really only do 300

Also a real 3k will require about $600 in electrical upgrades to the car.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

LOL Funny you should say that LosIsATool my backorder got squashed by Sonic Electronix so i sniffed around and found some 10" type R's instead for just $100 more than the type S were going for! Now i'm guessing a 3000 watt class D amp should be more than enough and i can run it at around half power appreciate the input guy's maybe back with more questions but happy for now!Thanks again!!

Just saving you some time. Most of the claimed 3000 rms amps on sonic electronix under 500 dollars wont do anywhere close to 3000 watts. Those amps will also fk up your electrical system if you dont have the proper upgrades.

If you want a big amp you need electrical upgrades and make sure you buy korean or brazilian made.

Those type Rs dont need that much power to get loud. Just a 2000 budget watt amp would do fine. I know there's a lot of audiopipe haters on this forum but after using one for my buddy, they work pretty well and sound decent. An audiopipe apcl 1500 would be good for two type Rs if you are tight on money. Otherwise a skar rp 2000 would do pretty decent as well.

https://www.skaraudio.com/products/rp-2000-1d

If you want quality, sundown, soundqubed, ampere, crescendo, dc audio, synergy, and twisted sounds are all amps that do rated power or more and are built like tanks. Built to last.

If you willing to buy used, this is an amazing deal for a korean well built quality amp

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifier-classifieds/629004-fs-fsd-2600-1-a.html

 

[Tb0ne]

Thanks guy's i'm not up on all the newer stuff haven't played with a real system since i bought my MTX sb - 45's and ran them off a Nakamichi PA-300 back in the early 90's those things sounded great in there day but that's all powder puff crap compared to how far things have come in mobile audio since then!! I really wanna stay stock with the car other than possibly adding a second battery in the trunk (dry cell) if needed but not sure what will work these subs well without going into crazy land with voltage issues? Also will a higher rated cap work in place of a second battery? I have a 2.2 farad cap now but see they have at least a 50 farad cap available now? Not sure how well these things work but i know the smaller ones help with voltage fluctuation when at an idle or stop light etc.