Amp Not Accepting Power

well if you positive the fuse at the battery is good then the amp is defective get it fixed
Yeap like i said earlier in the thread I think the amp is the culprit here. Something happend between you seeing it working from the seller to the time you installed it.

Again take it to a Car Audio place and ask if they have a 12v power supply to bench test it, or take it to an AV repair tech and ask the same question. You have something going on best to stop what you are doing and take it to a pro imo.

 
Just had another crack at it. Managed to get the ring terminal on the battery post's bolt with the help of a washer. With the car ON, I get 14.28v at the battery post, and every possible place along the power wire, all the way to the end. Once the power wire is pushed in the amp's terminal, it reads .11v. I just had ground, power, and rem plugged in, and the remote wire was a 16awg going from the rem terminal to the + terminal on the amp. No rcas or anything else plugged in.

I borrowed a Volfenhag 2 channle amp, not really sure if it works or not (last time it was tested, it went in to protect mode), but it does the same thing, except its getting 1.11v at the power wire in the amp.

 
Is it possible the ground is bad, even though thats what Im using for the negative post of the DMM and still getting 14v readings off the power wire when its out of the amp? Its bolted to the metal piece that holds the rear seat in place. Big 14mm bolt on pure metal with no paint.

 
You can always run a short section of wire across the fuseholder. If it smokes, pull it apart fast. But that should let you test it.

 
I was looking at the manual again, and it says to place a fuse holder near the amp after having the fuse by the battery. Does that mean I need a second fuse?

It also says peak current is 160 amps, the fuse is 300, could there be an issue with it being too big?

 
I would just try jumping the fuse for a second a see if the amp powers up. The fuse may have a microscopic crack in it you cant see and it cant handle any load.you can even use foil for a TEMPARARY jumper. as soon as the amp powers up turn off and pull it out then youll know its the fuse.

 
I was looking at the manual again, and it says to place a fuse holder near the amp after having the fuse by the battery. Does that mean I need a second fuse?
It also says peak current is 160 amps, the fuse is 300, could there be an issue with it being too big?
the purpose of the fuse is to protect the wire..not hte amp. the amp will draw the current its built for no matter what the fuse size is. adding a second fuse is redundent. do u have a meter with a continuity setting? if so take out hte fuse and test both ends.

 
Dont have another, not sure where to get another 300amp fuse at without getting it online and shipped.
if your amp is rated for 160a then use a smaller fuse then 300...any shop should have a 200a anl fuse

does the amp have fuses on the side of the amp? have you checked those if there are any?

 
Ran a wire across it, and with it pulled out. Still the same results. Took pics of the wiring too with the DMM attatched.

p2250d pictures by ctmaudi - Photobucket

The pic that reads .07 is with the car off, with the car on it goes up to .11-.17. No RCA or speakers connected. Re-ran the remote wire with 16awg to the ACC wire going in the stock stereo.

 
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