Amp Installation / Old School Amp / Cheater Amp Help?

IloveTheBass

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Hi everyone well,

I have a Lanzar optidrive plus 100 pwm mosfet

As ive been told its an old school amp.

It was my dads and i have no idea on what I can do this baby.

What do i need to connect this amp to his sub as all this was my dads.

I have no idea what wire guage I need and how much power I can get out of it.

I am new to this forum so if i posted this in the wrong section please let me know.

Ive also been told this amp was a cheater amp too.

Well basically i want to know how to connect this as i do not know how to. and dont know anything like bridging and so forth as Ive said i am new to this stuff.

I can use all the help i can get.

Thank You

 
Pics? I know there's guys here who used Lanzar of that era that will remember exactly what is what. I've personally only used the later Zed Audio Lanzars.... I was using Orion back when those were current.

Anyway the main thing I can say about those amps is that they'll get HOT. I mean really hot really fast, especially compared to today's class D. Make sure you keep plenty of space around it for airflow and still be prepared to have it go into thermal protect frequently if you like long drives.

Also worth mentioning, electrolytic capacitors do fail over time. We're talking about a 20 year old amp here so if it blows it's possibly just old components and not you being a douchebag.

 
For a short run, 10 gauge would be fine for that amplifier as it is only rated to produce 200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms bridged. If you are running the wire from from front to trunk, I'd recommend 8 gauge wire or possibly a 4 gauge kit if you are planning on running additional amplifiers. As for it being a cheater amp, I think they were only 30% underrated, so it's not like you are looking to get 1,000 watts RMS out of a 100 watt amplifier. Then again, the amplifier I am thinking about is the Opti Drive 100 as I can't recall a plus model from memory.

Unfortunately, you will be limited to 2 ohms stereo (100x2) or 4 ohms bridged (200x1) with that amplifier. That is, assuming it is the amplifier that I am thinking about.

As for connecting it, that should be very simple:

Red wire goes to 12v positive. I'd recommend a 20 to 25 amp fuse to be safe

black wire goes to chassis ground

Remote goes to the remote output lead on your HU or a switched source that turns on and off with the vehicle

to bridge use the amplifier's Left positive and connect it to the positive terminal on your speaker; amplifier right negative to the negative terminal on your speaker

 
Is THIS what this amp looks like? (See Pics below)

IMG_20110131_183658.jpg


IMG_20110131_183718.jpg


IMG_20110131_183749.jpg


IMG_20110131_183804.jpg


 
For a short run, 10 gauge would be fine for that amplifier as it is only rated to produce 200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms bridged. If you are running the wire from from front to trunk, I'd recommend 8 gauge wire or possibly a 4 gauge kit if you are planning on running additional amplifiers. As for it being a cheater amp, I think they were only 30% underrated, so it's not like you are looking to get 1,000 watts RMS out of a 100 watt amplifier. Then again, the amplifier I am thinking about is the Opti Drive 100 as I can't recall a plus model from memory.
Unfortunately, you will be limited to 2 ohms stereo (100x2) or 4 ohms bridged (200x1) with that amplifier. That is, assuming it is the amplifier that I am thinking about.

As for connecting it, that should be very simple:

Red wire goes to 12v positive. I'd recommend a 20 to 25 amp fuse to be safe

black wire goes to chassis ground

Remote goes to the remote output lead on your HU or a switched source that turns on and off with the vehicle

to bridge use the amplifier's Left positive and connect it to the positive terminal on your speaker; amplifier right negative to the negative terminal on your speaker

He is right... If That amp looks like the 1 I posted pics of, Then here is what is will do:

50watt x 2 at 4ohm

100watt x 2 at 2ohm

200watt x 1 at 4ohm

 
Yes that is what it looks like exactly

I also have two other amps but i do not know if i should connect them.Which i have a strong feeling i shouldnt as I only Have one 12 inch JL Audio Sub

I will post pics of my amps

 
Yes that is what it looks like exactlyI also have two other amps but i do not know if i should connect them.Which i have a strong feeling i shouldnt as I only Have one 12 inch JL Audio Sub

I will post pics of my amps
What JL sub do you have? (Voice coil config / Series / Etc.)

 
The sub is enclosed in the box and I put my phone in there and recorded the magnet and all it said was JL Audio 12W6 so im guessing that is the series etc..

 
Use a multi-meter and see what the resistance reading is when you connect it to your pos & neg box terminals, That figure should help narrow it down a bit. Did it have 1 speaker terminal to the voice coil leads, or 2? (single or dvc)

 
That sub is a dual 6 ohm voice coil so really your only viable option is to run it in parallel giving you an impedance of 3 ohms. You can TRY to hook it up to that lanzar, it says it's rated for a minimum of 4 ohms mono bridged, but I'd give it a shot, you are not dropping all the way down to 2 ohms, and between the amp / wiring / sub you will see a slight raise in impedance so you may be ok... I would TRY it and see, especially if ya got it for free, the worst that will happen is it will go into thermal protect and cut out on you ;-)

 
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