Amp help! what does this mean?

[carguy6702 10+ year member]

ok i want to know what the underlined phrases are and how they incorporate into output of the amp it be better if someone could explain it than giving me a link that doesn't really help

On-board Crossover: Fully-variable (40-200 Hz), selectable-slope (12 or 24 dB per octave) LP

Preamp Output: 2-channel (independent active filter, parallel with amp filter or pass through)

Bass EQ: Single-band parametric with variable boost up to +15dB and Remote Bass Option

Infrasonic Filter: Fully-variable 24dB/octave from 15-60 Hz

THD at Rated Power:

S/N Ratio: >95dB below rated power (A-weighted, 20 Hz - 20 kHz noise bandwidth)

Frequency Response: 5 Hz - 500 Hz (+0, -1dB)

Damping Factor: >500 @ 4 ohm / 50 Hz

>250 @ 2 ohm / 50 Hz

Input Range: Switchable from 200mV-2V RMS to 800mV-8V RMS

Click to read more...

 

[MiniVanMan 10+ year member]

Actually, there is nothing above that directly relates to output power. The first four items are purely signal processing.

The other items don't really tell you anything either. THD is Total Harmonic Distortion. Anything under 1% is inaudible.

S/N Ratio is Signal to Noise Ratio. That tells you how powerfull the signal is in relation to it's base noise level. Since, there are so many other things that cause noise in a car it's also a pretty useless spec, unless it's down near 75 or under.

Frequency Response is exactly that. This tells you what frequencies the amp will play. This amp is obviously a Class D amp.

Damping Factor, and this may cause a fight, is a useless spec. It's pretty hard to explain what exactly this spec is, but suffice to say it's a useless spec. Many amp companies would love to tell you that the higher the better. Fact is an amp with a damping factor under 100 can sound great (tube amps anyone??).

High damping factors are usually digitally processed and can sound brittle, and cold.

Input Range is directly related to the output voltage of your head unit.

 

[carguy6702 10+ year member]

Actually, there is nothing above that directly relates to output power. The first four items are purely signal processing.

ok, so those dont affect output power, but do they affect how the sub will sound?

 

[MiniVanMan 10+ year member]

Only indirectly. There's much debate as to the validity of a "watt is a watt". What's the difference between a Zapco watt at $3.00 per watt, and a Profile watt at .50 cents a watt (or whatever the actual numbers are). It really comes down to how the signal is processed. When you start using EQs, and crossovers, those elements come into play as well, and can affect your sound.

Unfortunately, there are no specifications that directly relate to sound quality. It's pure personal preference and opinion.

My personal opinion, and take it for what it's worth, is that there is a very clear point of diminishing returns when dealing with amplifiers. Pyle, Pyramid and the flea market brands are crap. But in an average install, cruising down the expressway at 70 mph, you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between a $150.00 Hifonics and a $400.00 Zapco.

Other than that, all specs are generally useless, whether supplied by Zapco, or Hifonics. All specs, that is, besides power ratings, which are either accurate or they aren't.