Amp getting stupidly hot.

[Wellyboy]

No... Just no! The amp ran cooler with one sub because now you are at a higher impedance lol. You go from 1 ohm to 2 ohm and of course the amp will run cooler, it will also be putting out about half the power. It's running cooler because there isn't as much energy running through the components. But if you are wired at a certain impedance it literally does not matter what sub are there, the amp will produce the power at that impedance.
The subs do not ask for any power, they are a part of the circuit and they allow power. If you have subs wired at 1ohm, it doesn't matter what subs they are, they amp will produce the power it is supposed to at 1ohm.

T1500 run 1500rms at 1 an 2 ohm buddy.
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[Kam311]

T1500 run 1500rms at 1 an 2 ohm buddy.
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I'm not talking about that amp specifically, I'm taking in general. Just because it has an internally regulated power supply doesn't make it magically handle a lower ohm load with the same ease as it does a higher ohm load. Just because an amp can handle a 1ohm load doesn't mean it's not harder on it than a 4ohm load... Buddy.... Lol

I saw you try to grasp the concept of ohms law in your thread, seems that you've gone wrong, even on an amp you can't go wrong with. If your solution is to disconnect a sub in order to get louder, I'm going to clump you in with the ever growing "do not take their advice" group.

 

[Wellyboy]

I'm not talking about that amp specifically, I'm taking in general. Just because it has an internally regulated power supply doesn't make it magically handle a lower ohm load with the same ease as it does a higher ohm load. Just because an amp can handle a 1ohm load doesn't mean it's not harder on it than a 4ohm load... Buddy.... Lol
I saw you try to grasp the concept of ohms law in your thread, seems that you've gone wrong, even on an amp you can't go wrong with. If your solution is to disconnect a sub in order to get louder, I'm going to clump you in with the ever growing "do not take their advice" group.

Yep you are correct. Not gona argue there, the point I was making is that his amp is constantly playing at 100% (med-high volume, or the max he can handle) without any breathing room and although this okay with some amps(models not brands)in most it isn't and I think it is a factor to consider as you would want to protect your amplifier 1st over your subs logically. I have come across a few in my years that struggle at 100% for lengthy periods of time at med-high volume an pop into protect if Ur lucky before IC's Dnt burn out. So after he double checks his connections and if their all solid, what would one consider doing next?
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[Kam311]

Yep you are correct. Not gona argue there, the point I was making is that his amp is constantly playing at 100% (med-high volume, or the max he can handle) without any breathing room and although this okay with some amps(models not brands)in most it isn't and I think it is a factor to consider as you would want to protect your amplifier 1st over your subs logically. I have come across a few in my years that struggle at 100% for lengthy periods of time at med-high volume an pop into protect if Ur lucky before IC's Dnt burn out. So after he double checks his connections and if their all solid, what would one consider doing next?
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There is absolutely no reason the amp you have shouldn't handle playing full tilt at 1ohm if your connections are good and your electrical is stout. The rf amp is also underrated so it doesn't only produce 1500w, it probably does a couple hundred watts more. That's quite a bit on a stock electrical.

What size is your power and ground? Are you using true copper wiring? What is your Amp grounded to? What ohm load are your subs wired to, and how do you know? If you have dvc4 subs, try wiring them in series instead since you amp should do the same at 4 ohm as it does 1.

That would be crazy for an amp that costs $500+ for only 1500 watts to not be able to handle producing the 1500w at rated ohm load. Especially when there are $150 - $300 options that can play full tilt @ 1ohm all day.

 

[Wellyboy]

There is absolutely no reason the amp you have shouldn't handle playing full tilt at 1ohm if your connections are good and your electrical is stout. The rf amp is also underrated so it doesn't only produce 1500w, it probably does a couple hundred watts more. That's quite a bit on a stock electrical.
What size is your power and ground? Are you using true copper wiring? What is your Amp grounded to? What ohm load are your subs wired to, and how do you know? If you have dvc4 subs, try wiring them in series instead since you amp should do the same at 4 ohm as it does 1.

That would be crazy for an amp that costs $500+ for only 1500 watts to not be able to handle producing the 1500w at rated ohm load. Especially when there are $150 - $300 options that can play full tilt @ 1ohm all day.

0GA cable through out.. Both ground and power. I Dnt use anything smaller regardless of amp size. Everything is Grounded directly to chassis via bolts on seperate points an yes to bare metal. Sub are at 1ohm I double check with my DMM(1.4ohm to be exact) subs are rated 800rms each (2)(underrated, I'v been blasting em very loud lately) my amp gets hot and it stays hot, but never to the point where I get burned an having said that it could be that my definition of hot is by some else's standard as warm, I am yet to see how hot other people's amps get when they perform which is quite rare for me because I Dnt know anyone who has a system as powerful as mine or ever known anyone. My light barely flicker the amp does not cut out nor does its power light flicker, seeing that this amp is way more powerful that what I used to run, I'm probably stressing for nothing. No bass boost whatsoever readjusted my active crossovers on headunit to speaker specifications confined with the info I get from everyone on here. My power supply is a 100AH sealed AGM and a stock 80amp alternator.
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[Kam311]

That electrical is definitely on the weak side for the amount of amperage your amplifier would be pulling you may look into upgrading your alternator. Your amp can probably pull 200amp with only 80amp being replenished. It's not sustainable.