Amp fuse sizes?

Okay so I have the big 3 done (thanks mylows), I have a yellow top under the hood, I have kicker 0 gauge multi amp kit. I am waiting to get invoiced from singer on a 270 amp alt.
My question is what size fuse should I use for the amp to batt and for batt to amps?
Fuse everything with kicker 0ga. At 300a ..u fuse for wire capacity not amp needs

 
no you don't. just need to know the amp rating of the wire he's using. since its Kicker wire its 300A.
Really? And how are you going to fuse each amp if you don't say the wattage of each?

Also, look at your question: My question is what size fuse should I use for the amp to batt and for batt to amps?

I'm trying to help but your question Doesn't make sense...

 
We need more details on your install.
HU Kenwood

Amp BRX 2000.1D -in the mail

Two 15 inch subs 800rms @ 4ohm

singer 270a alt -waiting for invoice to order

wiring kit- kicker 09PKD1 1/0AWG ROHS dual wiring kit

kicker component speakers two front doors

kicker mids rear doors

kicker 300.4 powering door speakers

Big 3 -Mylows

Will be adding two more 15 subs and one more brx 2000.1D by the end of the year.

 
HU KenwoodAmp BRX 2000.1D -in the mail

Two 15 inch subs 800rms @ 4ohm

singer 270a alt -waiting for invoice to order

wiring kit- kicker 09PKD1 1/0AWG ROHS dual wiring kit

kicker component speakers two front doors

kicker mids rear doors

kicker 300.4 powering door speakers

Big 3 -Mylows

Will be adding two more 15 subs and one more brx 2000.1D by the end of the year.
I'm going to send you a PM with info so you can get the best information on this.

 
Really? And how are you going to fuse each amp if you don't say the wattage of each?
Also, look at your question: My question is what size fuse should I use for the amp to batt and for batt to amps?

I'm trying to help but your question Doesn't make sense...
as stated earlier in the thread you fuse for the wire not for the amp. he does not state any info about additional batteries implying that he only has the 1 run of Kicker 0 gauge which comes with a 300a fuse b/c that is it's rating for 20'. that is more than enough fuse for what he has. also the amp kit he is referring to is the Kicker PKD1 amp kit which does NOT have fused distribution blocks.

 
I'm going to send you a PM with info so you can get the best information on this.
I don't want to be a **** but this is a forum that people use to get answers. How are you helping anyone that searches and finds this thread when you aren't giving an answer they can see? I'd be curious to see what your answer to the original question is.

 
I don't want to be a **** but this is a forum that people use to get answers. How are you helping anyone that searches and finds this thread when you aren't giving an answer they can see? I'd be curious to see what your answer to the original question is.
Sorry, I always try to help with what I know, but I did that because someone else here was contradicting what I was saying and to avoid other discussions, I went straight to the point and the Threadstarter was happy with my input.

 
300 amps fuse???

I understand that's what the wire needs to be protected, But how about some protection for his electrical system? (battery & Alternator...)

Don't you think the fuse should also protect his car. What IF he is driving home one night and a short (or ...) draws 260-299 amps? His car would likely stop running and leave him and his 275 amp alternator stranded.

I don't see any point in fusing for more than your amplifiers could possibly every need, and what your electrical system can spare.

 
300 amps fuse???
I understand that's what the wire needs to be protected, But how about some protection for his electrical system? (battery & Alternator...)

Don't you think the fuse should also protect his car. What IF he is driving home one night and a short (or ...) draws 260-299 amps? His car would likely stop running and leave him and his 275 amp alternator stranded.

I don't see any point in fusing for more than your amplifiers could possibly every need, and what your electrical system can spare.
U arent fusing to protect the car or the amp..thats why u fuse to the wires max amperage capacity...if a wire comes loose and grounds out it will pop instead of catching fire.and how exactly would it strand you? U still have have all ur factory wiring...ive answered this seemz like 1000 times ...U FUSE TO PROTECT THE WIRE .NOT THE AMP...sure u can put whatever size fuse u want in ..doesnt make it right ...only ppl i know who dont fuse to capacity are ppl who are cheating meca in the lanes

 
U arent fusing to protect the car or the amp..thats why u fuse to the wires max amperage capacity...if a wire comes loose and grounds out it will pop instead of catching fire.and how exactly would it strand you? U still have have all ur factory wiring...ive answered this seemz like 1000 times ...U FUSE TO PROTECT THE WIRE .NOT THE AMP...sure u can put whatever size fuse u want in ..doesnt make it right ...only ppl i know who dont fuse to capacity are ppl who are cheating meca in the lanes

I know what you're saying and as a rule of thumb "you always fuse for the wire size." I got that, it"s a good answer, but it's not the best answer.

The problem comes in when the wire size reach the point in which it can handle more power than the source power can put out. You will protect the wire but jeopardize the source.

While he is running his stock alternator I would only fuse to what his stock alternator can spare. My van's stock Alternator is 130 amps, i fused for 80 amps that way it protects the wire, the electrical, the amps, and keep my voltage in the 14s all the time.

"And if he has a surge or faulty connection amd draws more that amps capability the amps fuses will pop..not strand him"

Granted most shorts are direct shorts, which will pop a 300 amp fuse in most cars. But the rare case that a battery is to week to supply 300 amps, OR is NOT a direct short...

I guess my point is, why would you ever want less protection when you can have more protection by using a smaller fuse?

I know I tend to be more cautious than most, it comes from being a aircraft mechanic for 20 years. You don't take unnecessary risks with the electrical system or any other system on a aircraft.

If your SPL competing then yeah but for a everyday driver smaller is better IMO.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

speedyjuarez

Premium Member
Premium Member
Thread starter
speedyjuarez
Joined
Location
Live in Hobbs, NM. From Ft Worth, TX
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
19
Views
2,014
Last reply date
Last reply from
Roland
1778578257023.png

Glen Rodgers

    May 12, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
Screenshot_20260511_212804_Amazon Shopping.jpg

Blackout67

    May 11, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top