Amp Choice

[crimmer]

I think that is the amp I'm going to go with

i was wondering when someone was gonna mention this lil bugger. I didnt want to throw it out there since i have one LOL

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[shredder2]

A single beveled piece in the port bend and one dowel... nice and simple, That ought to fit really nice if your measurements work out... could you double check and let me know if that'll fit? And you asked the question IIRC about class D amps being more efficient or something... lol... if you wanna power these Sa's pretty decent and get fairly loud, I'd expect to do at least a secondary AGM (a good sized one), Big 3 and good OFC lg. gauge wire... maybe more. At about a 1.5K amp, you'll really start to see voltage drop in most cars, a PT cruiser?.. lol... IDK. Personally I'd look at a 2Kish amp to power these, set your gains correctly (no clipping) and they should do well.

If you are new to this, this might surprise you a bit... it should do pretty good.

Lemme know, and if it will work... PM me and we'll go from there

 

[shredder2]

Jeez.. I guess that was a waste of time... no word yet. I suppose the OP just wanted to start a thread or found some other designer/builder.

I'll just keep on trollin' and stop doin' these ^^^ for just anyone.

 

[crimmer]

I didn't even see your reply sorry man. How long would that build take and about at what cost?

Jeez.. I guess that was a waste of time... no word yet. I suppose the OP just wanted to start a thread or found some other designer/builder.
I'll just keep on trollin' and stop doin' these ^^^ for just anyone.

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[shredder2]

I didn't even see your reply sorry man. How long would that build take and about at what cost?
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Well, I CAN build it but to ship will kill the price, just find a local to do it or do it yourself. It's NOT a complex undertaking and a simple design. Once you see the plans you'll see... just get any big box home improvement store to cut the pieces on a panel saw (they'll usually do it for free), take the parts home then pre-drill (cheap drill is $20) the screw holes (it'll make assembly easier). Woodglue the edges and assemble it (I use #6 countersink bit and #6 coarse thread 1 5/8" drywall screws). Then cut the mounting hole with a jig or sabre saw (cheap AF). The only sticky part will be the beveled piece in the port bend, and you can even cut that with the cheap jig/sabre saw if you are careful (just swivel the table on the saw... it usually loosens with a screw and has some markings to see where a 45 degree cut is). Otherwise a Skilsaw or table saw is best.

Design is free BTW, just PM me and we'll go from there. If you want to build it yourself, ask the forum in another thread if you are unsure. Lotsa pro's on here that probably will help you thru it.

1 4x8 sheet MDF

1 5/8" coarse thread drywall screws

Woodglue

Cheap 3/8" drill (should come with a driver bit for screws)

#6 countersink drillbit

Cheap Jigsaw/Sabresaw

10'-12' of 12ga wire

and if you have time, bar clamps can be used instead of screws. But I like screws as it just seems easier to do... once the parts are pre-drilled it just flies together.

To cut a nice round circle, just use a scrap piece of wood, 2 screws a radius apart (1/2 the diameter). Screw one in the center of the area to be cut and scribe with the other a nice round circle. Then cut it out carefully... scribe tool looks like this...

Marked and pre-drilled looks like this when ready for assembly...

Really, don't be put off by the project. Doin' this yourself will save $$$ even if you need a few tools IMO. Unless you find a cheap builder locally that can actually follow a plan (better check port width throughout). It'll be under $100 with tools, under $50 without, and it's satisfying to do it yourself, I've done enclosures in a small apartment with a screwdriver (Man... my hands were sore that time!), or on the front porch.

PM me for plans

 

[shredder2]

Plans sent. Good luck

 

[Jcsaudio]

Plans sent. Good luck

Hey Shredder, do you mind doing a box design for my single SA-12 D4 for my hatchback CX5 SUV? Have 20” deep X 20” tall X 40” wide to work with. My preference is achieving the best sound quality I can. I have the skill and equipment to build an intricate box with rounded corners with bracing.

 

[shredder2]

Sound quality as in low tuned?.. it always amazes me how a lower tune sounds better. If you want a flatter response I can look at that... your call... but it's no problem... lemme know

 

[Jcsaudio]

I have a Alpine SWS 10 in a box tunes to 35 Hz and love it so I would think not to go any higher than that. I do have a DSP and a microphone with REW so I can massage the response a little so long as it’s not something crazy. Sundown recommends I think 33 Hz.

 

[shredder2]

I have a Alpine SWS 10 in a box tunes to 35 Hz and love it so I would think not to go any higher than that. I do have a DSP and a microphone with REW so I can massage the response a little so long as it’s not something crazy. Sundown recommends I think 33 Hz.

Ok... I'll look at it tonight... sub up/port back on passenger side?.. or would you prefer sub/port back?

 

[Jcsaudio]

Sub and port on the same side/panel. Currently I have it in a sealed box and with the sub firing towards me it has more SPL and sounds better.

Thank you

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Sound quality as in low tuned?.. it always amazes me how a lower tune sounds better. If you want a flatter response I can look at that... your call... but it's no problem... lemme know

That's because group delay goes up when tuning goes up.

 

[shredder2]

Well... I got one I like thats pretty flat and goes low af... don't know what you want in terms of sq @Jcsaudio. This one I've got looks good to me.
It's low tuned and should blend well with a low crossed strong frontstage 70-75hz... your call... lol... I can go for a higher tune if you want to get more spl... but this looks nice to me in Winisd.

If sq was my goal this one should blend well with a strong frontstage and go low af.

 

[Jcsaudio]

[quote name='shredder2']Well... I got one I like thats pretty flat and goes low af... don't know what you want in terms of sq @Jcsaudio. This one I've got looks good to me.
It's low tuned and should blend well with a low crossed strong frontstage 70-75hz... your call... lol... I can go for a higher tune if you want to get more spl... but this looks nice to me in Winisd.

If sq was my goal this one should blend well with a strong frontstage and go low af.[/QUOTE]

Nice, this looks awesome! PM sent.

 

[youdoofus]

I think that is the amp I'm going to go with
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its a pretty strong amp and can be had in good shape from the used market at decent prices. Just be sure to not make the same mistake i made with mine and allow your voltage to drop below 12v EVER, itll kill the internals pretty quickly. Do the 0 gauge, big 3 and an agm battery. I havent got any of these done yet, hence the reason mine is still in a box in my spare room