While the formula is correct, your also assuming that your amps are !00% efficient, which is not the case. Class D amps are very efficient, in the 90% range IIRC, but most other types of amps are not, and I'm willing to bet that most everyone has a non class D amp in their car. Also, efficiency decreases as temp goes up. Your going to draw more amps than your going to calculate using that forumla.
well i have one orion 2500D (running my subs) and one audiobahn A4801T (running my mids and highs)....i'll be running the orion at 2500 RMS @ 1 ohm and the audiobahn at 600 RMS @ 4ohm....the orion is a bit underrated though and the audiobahn might be a bit overrrated....but with just the rated RMS i will be running about 3100 RMS.....divided by 12 thats 258.3....so would i need to get an alt tahst about 275 amps?
wait.....so if i go ahead and get a 200A alt....how much headroom do u think i would have to grow on?.....in case i wanna expand in the future...RMS wattage wise?...jus so i know for future referenceWell - figure around 3000w.
Factor efficiency and call it 4000.
4000/14 = 285A
Assuming you're going to listen to music and not low freq. test tones you can divide that by about 3:
285/3= 95A
That would be approximate RMS current draw at full volume, but since you can't blast it 100% of the time you can cut that by another 20-50%.
IMO 150A would get it done. 200A would give you all KINDS of head room.
Sorry, completely and totally incorrect.When you have a lot of watts like 4000+ is when you get into 2nd and 3rd batteries. I mean on Pimp my ride with the Jackhammer they had 4 batters and 6 caps. with a 200 amp alternator
with one batterie 6000/12=500 amps
with 4 6000/48=125 amps
bid difference