Alternatives to cup terminals?

[Nut Hair Trick 10+ year member]

Buy these from home depot. SKU # 608576

1/4-20 x 20mm Zinc-Plated Steel Type-D Insert Nuts (4-Pack)-54454 at The Home Depot

Drill a hole a little smaller than the insert, apply some wood glue and twist them in with a hex head. There will be absolutely no leaks at all when you use these screws from Home Depot. SKU # 254827

1/4-20 x 2 in. Coarse Brass Flat-Head Phillips Machine Screws (2-Pack)-30171 at The Home Depot

I'm very happy with the way mine turned out

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Hmm I'm gonna have to do some investigating. I really like those. Are they sold individually, how much do they run? Sorry for all the questions.

Yep, come in a 2pack iirc, about 2-3bux per bag

Pretty much

 

[miska_man 10+ year member]

LOL thank you, he kinda sounds like a jackass. Idk how bit of holes ure drillin buddy but i said big enough for the wire. Theres not alot of air that could get threw lol

THANK YOU for assuming things.

But I'll have you know that I'm still supporting my idea. Say you do a test with caulk and then no caulk with eteris paribus. Report back and tell me what the difference was in dBs between the two tests.

 

[MANTI5 10+ year member]

I wouldn't have any open holes in an enclosure that's not a port.

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

i drill holes the size of the wire and cauk around the wire

same

 

[JoshC 10+ year member]

THANK YOU for assuming things.
But I'll have you know that I'm still supporting my idea. Say you do a test with caulk and then no caulk with eteris paribus. Report back and tell me what the difference was in dBs between the two tests.

ill pass, u do it and get back to us

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

I'll probably go with some simple wing nut/nut/washer setup. Don't like the idea of sealing a hole with caulk. Wth do I do when I have to change speaker wire for whatever reason?

you pull it out.... it's not THAT strong. Any designer/builder I've talked to have said if it's a ported design, it's not a problem just drilling and running wire through. if it's sealed, that's a different story.

 

[JoshC 10+ year member]

I'll probably go with some simple wing nut/nut/washer setup. Don't like the idea of sealing a hole with caulk. Wth do I do when I have to change speaker wire for whatever reason?

yank that shit out man, lol

Or just use quality wire and don't cut your runs short if you relocate the amp later. Will be no reason to change the wire then

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

Ha post!

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

I've done the whole "just run the wire through and caulk the hole" and not only did I have problems with my caulk getting blown out of the hole but it was a PITA if I had to remove the enclosure (having 3' of dangling 10 gauge wire was annoying and inconvenient to say the least)

 

[miska_man 10+ year member]

ill pass, u do it and get back to us

I'll go do it if you go take a spelling class.

 

[JoshC 10+ year member]

I'll go do it if you go take a spelling class.

horrible just horrible, waz b wong wiff mah spallan

 

[VWBobby 10+ year member]

The Dayton terminals are the best for this type of application. Dayton Audio BPA-38G HD Binding Post Pair Gold 091-1245

If you're worried about them shorting out, recess them by drilling counter-sink holes or 2nd using piece of MDF as a baffle board.

Otherwise I just run the wires straight out of the box using sealant or stack nuts and washers like this: Bolt - Washer - Terminal - Washer - Nut - Washer - Terminal - Washer - Nut. Washers on both sides of the board and on the terminal. This way you can loosen the nut without the bolt turning inside the box.

 

[VWBobby 10+ year member]

The Dayton terminals are the best for this type of application. Dayton Audio BPA-38G HD Binding Post Pair Gold 091-1245

If you're worried about them shorting out, recess them by drilling counter-sink holes or using a 2nd piece of MDF as a baffle board.

Otherwise I just run the wires straight out of the box using sealant or stack nuts and washers like this: Bolt - Washer - Terminal - Washer - Nut - Washer - Terminal - Washer - Nut. Washers on both sides of the board and on the terminal. This way you can loosen the nut without the bolt turning inside the box.

 

[Confessed 10+ year member]

Just bought the Dayton binding posts. Thanks for all the suggestions.