Alt vs batteries?

[nukeitall 10+ year member]

I know u need both.

But if u had to buy one first and order the other one maybe a month later, which would u get?

mechman 250a alt.

(2) KINETIK 2400's modded to also run at 16v (if wanted).

amps being powered are a crunch 3000 pro, sax 100.4?

Need to know quick. thanks also reasoning would help.

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[bones22 5,000+ posts]

alt

are you doing a 16volt setup?

 

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

Get the alt and do the big 3. Can hold you over till you can get the 2400.

 

[jco1385 5,000+ posts]

alt

 

[rumple4skin 10+ year member]

wow. everyone of you said the same thing for once. grats guys!!!

 

[nukeitall 10+ year member]

no not going for a 16v setup, they are pioneerpimps 2400's and have a bar to make them 16v. But i guess i would have to externally reg the alt too HUH? Im pretty sure the kinetiks can be ran at 12 v without the bars. I planned on running them at 12v BTW

I was thinking alt too but i didnt want to pass a good deal up.

I wont be putting this all in my car for about 4 weeks so I could possibly order them both before I even go to install. Which makes me want to get he kinetiks now because I can always order an alt. but then if the funds dont allow for some reason i dont want to be stuck with the worst of the two until i can get the other.

Understand?

any different answers witht he bit of info i added?

 

[rumple4skin 10+ year member]

no not going for a 16v setup, they are pioneerpimps 2400's and have a bar to make them 16v. But i guess i would have to externally reg the alt too HUH? Im pretty sure the kinetiks can be ran at 12 v without the bars. I planned on running them at 12v BTW
I was thinking alt too but i didnt want to pass a good deal up.

I wont be putting this all in my car for about 4 weeks so I could possibly order them both before I even go to install. Which makes me want to get he kinetiks now because I can always order an alt. but then if the funds dont allow for some reason i dont want to be stuck with the worst of the two until i can get the other.

Understand?

any different answers witht he bit of info i added?

sorry for thread dumping earlyer man, here is some insight to why they all said alt.

the alt charge's the bat right? you want to run at a 12v output right?(i have no idea why) well the whole point is to keep a steady flow of current to the bat(hence the alt) so that you allways have a charge( or overcharge) as oppose to potentionaly droping below 12v and hurting all your eq or car comp. altho like i said the oh alt can be a bad thing and id personaly like to have two of those kinetiks and the alt at the same time(istead of going out and buying a cap)

 

[nukeitall 10+ year member]

by 12v i mean whatever the voltage will sit at whether it be 14.6v or what. just not trying to build a 18v setup or anything crazy but if i can get higher voltages sure why not. this is a daily driver FYI.

well i guess ill go with the alt then im sure i can find kinetiks later. But eventually ill get both alt and batts.

so should i get the mechman or EA or Iraggi? im leaning towards mech right now.

 

[rumple4skin 10+ year member]

by 12v i mean whatever the voltage will sit at whether it be 14.6v or what. just not trying to build a 18v setup or anything crazy but if i can get higher voltages sure why not. this is a daily driver FYI.
well i guess ill go with the alt then im sure i can find kinetiks later. But eventually ill get both alt and batts.

so should i get the mechman or EA or Iraggi? im leaning towards mech right now.

well i would run the bats at over 14v over 16v and you kinda have to watch what your doing(pretaning to the car's elctrical) but aslong as you dont start blowing fuse's left and right id run them at 16v aslong as you are not going to be clipping the amps crazy. run low gains and id buy the alt and big three(20 bucks and 30 min of your time) then get a bat soon(i just really dont like the idea of a oh alt without a deep cycle bat) then id add a 2nd in the back just to insure that you never have you amp working with anything near under 12v(alot of amps out there dont have a low current protection( atleast the class D)). sorry man i dont know much about brand names of alty's

 

[audioarsonal 10+ year member]

I would get the batteries first.If you don't plan on running 16v your stock alt will charge the batteries just fine.And don't try running 16v through your car unless you want a blown ECU.Vehicles only handle up to about 15.3v before you start to fuk shit up.

Or you coud run the batteries at 16v as a stand alone setup and feed the amp 16v however you would have no way of charging unless you have a 16v charger.

 

[rumple4skin 10+ year member]

I would get the batteries first.If you don't plan on running 16v your stock alt will charge the batteries just fine.And don't try running 16v through your car unless you want a blown ECU.Vehicles only handle up to about 15.3v before you start to fuk shit up.Or you coud run the batteries at 16v as a stand alone setup and feed the amp 16v however you would have no way of charging unless you have a 16v charger.

that was the point i was getting at, if he gets that bat throws it in the trunk and runs it for 4 months its going to put a drain on that bat and potentaly **** it up. at the same time the stario will work fine on the 12.5v output of the bat it has the amp just wont put it out is all, and when you over charge the shit out of that factory bat no one cares cuz your replacing it, but id leave it up there like he said and not run your car at a 16v output. run the bat to the back run your amps clean off 16v car on 12.5 alt working overtime.

 

[audioarsonal 10+ year member]

that was the point i was getting at, if he gets that bat throws it in the trunk and runs it for 4 months its going to put a drain on that bat and potentaly **** it up. at the same time the stario will work fine on the 12.5v output of the bat it has the amp just wont put it out is all, and when you over charge the shit out of that factory bat no one cares cuz your replacing it, but id leave it up there like he said and not run your car at a 16v output. run the bat to the back run your amps clean off 16v car on 12.5 alt working overtime.

I don't understand this.The GP has tested to be slightly over 3k on a 12v system so how wouldn't the amp be putting out?

And if your meaning charging with the alt at 14v to the 16v batteries that won't work either.In the second scenario I stated the two kinetiks would NOT be hooked to the vehicles charging system rather just placed in the trunk wired in parallel and connected to the amp.And only the sub amp not the highs amp.

 

[rumple4skin 10+ year member]

I don't understand this.The GP has tested to be slightly over 3k on a 12v system so how wouldn't the amp be putting out?
And if your meaning charging with the alt at 14v to the 16v batteries that won't work either.In the second scenario I stated the two kinetiks would NOT be hooked to the vehicles charging system rather just placed in the trunk wired in parallel and connected to the amp.And only the sub amp not the highs amp.

sorry to have offended you in anyway lol. you are and where varry right in all of your statments, other then buying the bat first imo. and i didnt look up the amp or even what it was sorry just 90% of your class d amps are tested at 14.5 or higher, eatherway you look at it man there is allways going to be two ways to fix this prob. circut city will tell you to throw bats at it. stack bats ontop of bats untell you have no voltage drop....... this is never the way to go imo (unless sitting in your driveway allday...). as i said man in the long run as a day to day driving set up id get the alty first with a big three upgrade and go from there. this guy dosnt even want to be running on a three bat rig. if you want to run the bat at 12v goahead if the amp will do its raited power at 12v, and like he said man anything over 15v is bad for your car so watch what you do.

 

[chunky cumz 10+ year member]

I would get the batteries first.If you don't plan on running 16v your stock alt will charge the batteries just fine.And don't try running 16v through your car unless you want a blown ECU.Vehicles only handle up to about 15.3v before you start to fuk shit up.Or you coud run the batteries at 16v as a stand alone setup and feed the amp 16v however you would have no way of charging unless you have a 16v charger.

my 2006 hhr's computer regulates the voltage but one day for what ever reason ( had a much smaller setup) the voltage JUMPED went to 15.7 and then went back down to about 13.5-13.8. I blew my subs when that happened but the car has never down that before or after.

The voltage regulartor keep the voltage steady around 13.5-13.8 all the time, but this was an odd day. i didnt know such little extra voltage on an amp could cause a watt wave like it did. You could definitly tell.

1. i had 2 type e's (shyt but whatver)

2. i was runnin that amp hard as it was (would clip every now and again)

make any sense to anyone or had any expirience with something like this?

 

[audioarsonal 10+ year member]

sorry to have offended you in anyway lol. you are and where varry right in all of your statments, other then buying the bat first imo. and i didnt look up the amp or even what it was sorry just 90% of your class d amps are tested at 14.5 or higher, eatherway you look at it man there is allways going to be two ways to fix this prob. circut city will tell you to throw bats at it. stack bats ontop of bats untell you have no voltage drop....... this is never the way to go imo (unless sitting in your driveway allday...). as i said man in the long run as a day to day driving set up id get the alty first with a big three upgrade and go from there. this guy dosnt even want to be running on a three bat rig. if you want to run the bat at 12v goahead if the amp will do its raited power at 12v, and like he said man anything over 15v is bad for your car so watch what you do.

I wasn't offended just trying to figure out what you ment?As for CC knowing ANYTHING....HAHAHA.As i said before the factory alt will o fine in charging all three batteries.Would he benefit from an HO yes.But IMO the batteries are the better way to go.Cheaper, and less hassle.

my 2006 hhr's computer regulates the voltage but one day for what ever reason ( had a much smaller setup) the voltage JUMPED went to 15.7 and then went back down to about 13.5-13.8. I blew my subs when that happened but the car has never down that before or after. The voltage regulartor keep the voltage steady around 13.5-13.8 all the time, but this was an odd day. i didnt know such little extra voltage on an amp could cause a watt wave like it did. You could definitly tell.

1. i had 2 type e's (shyt but whatver)

2. i was runnin that amp hard as it was (would clip every now and again)

make any sense to anyone or had any expirience with something like this?

My jeep is also ECU controlled.But I have never had a spike.Vehicles can take short spikes but all are different.I have seen guys pull up and crank there voltage to 17v for a short burp and have no effect on the car.Then I have seen them fry the ECU cause of a slight over voltage.It can go either way but I would error on the side of caution and not go above 15v.