Alpine Type-R 12 Vs. American Bass XFL 12

Lots of people wire to half ohm daily bro. You arent in the scene enough lol. Some amps cant actually handle a true 1 ohm resisistive load though. Mainly zenon korean made amps are strong enough to be wired down to .25 ohms or lower.
Haha true, I'm sorry, I'm a noob compared to you guys. I appreciate your patience. I guess I meant why don't people wire amps lower than recommended since the impedance rise will happen anyway? But you're saying that most amps are already accounting for impedance rise to happen and that they actually can't even handle a true impedance level at what they're rated at? I hope that makes sense.

 
Haha true, I'm sorry, I'm a noob compared to you guys. I appreciate your patience. I guess I meant why don't people wire amps lower than recommended since the impedance rise will happen anyway? But you're saying that most amps are already accounting for impedance rise and that they actually can't even handle a true impedance level at what they're rated at? I hope that makes sense.
Yes most mainstream amps are like that. Also wiring under 1 ohm voids warranty. Usually we stick with korean made amps if we plan on wiring low because its been proven over and over again. Ive seen a guy wire his sh*t to .0625 ohms for a competition burp

 
Not trying to be negative but it just seems dumb, if I understand this correctly, the fact is that we can't get rated power out of our amps because the impedance rises but if we were to change the wiring to get the impedance to the correct level, it would be unsafe for the amp. Basically it's impossible to get rated power out of an amp? Almost all amps are over rated?

Maybe this isn't a big deal and I'm over reacting lol

 
A major part of your install is based on your enclosure, a lot of people really don't understand how important it is. Two sa 12s on 2k (clean) in the right enclosure can really get down, if you ever upgrade power wise they can really shine.

 
Not trying to be negative but it just seems dumb, if I understand this correctly, the fact is that we can't get rated power out of our amps because the impedance rises but if we were to change the wiring to get the impedance to the correct level, it would be unsafe for the amp. Basically it's impossible to get rated power out of an amp? Almost all amps are over rated?
Maybe this isn't a big deal and I'm over reacting lol
Yup its dumb lol.... Its normal and cant be avoided. You will only will know how much you do via clamp tests howevery different frequencies will have different power results because of different rise. There is one way to see if the amp does rated clean power, and it is through amplifier dyno certified run tests which tests amps at a resistive load. However real world output will never be at 1 ohm if you are wired at 1 ohm. Its normal and cant be avoided at all. This is why i suggested the 3500 amp before. The xfls will handle the power easy after rise. The type Rs not so much.

Usually we run more power than needed to compensate for rise and to have head room and keep the signal clean.

 
Crazy how people still think you needs gobs of power to be loud. A well designed system with 2000 watts can easily get plenty loud for DD. You don't even really need to go that high. Of course people still think you need 86 bullet tweeters to get loud too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 
Yup its dumb lol.... Its normal and cant be avoided. You will only will know how much you do via clamp tests howevery different frequencies will have different power results because of different rise. There is one way to see if the amp does rated clean power, and it is through amplifier dyno certified run tests which tests amps at a resistive load. However real world output will never be at 1 ohm if you are wired at 1 ohm. Its normal and cant be avoided at all. This is why i suggested the 3500 amp before. The xfls will handle the power easy after rise. The type Rs not so much.
Usually we run more power than needed to compensate for rise and to have head room and keep the signal clean.
Nice okay thanks lol so back to my original statement where i said my old rf t1000.1bd was doing 1500 rms, it wasn't cuz of box rise, but still how much difference would there be between a 135amp alt and a 90amp alt? Because if I could run an amp like the rf again with my 90 amp alt and not have voltage issues and be fine like I was with the the 135amp alt, my voltage stayed at 13.5, then I'll probably just stick to that level of power and maybe just get the r's again because they're cheap and can handle 1500rms before box rise

 
Crazy how people still think you needs gobs of power to be loud. A well designed system with 2000 watts can easily get plenty loud for DD. You don't even really need to go that high. Of course people still think you need 86 bullet tweeters to get loud too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif
True if you see my old system I had in my mustang and watch the vid in my signature, it got plenty loud. And the amp was tested on the birth sheet for only 1500rms. And I'm thinking the same system in my Tiburon might be even a little louder since its a hatchback with no trunk, not sure. Too bad my Tiburons alt is 45amps less though than the mustang alt. I don't know how much of a difference that makes

 
True if you see my old system I had in my mustang and watch the vid in my signature, it got plenty loud. And the amp was tested on the birth sheet for only 1500rms. And I'm thinking the same system in my Tiburon might be even a little louder since its a hatchback with no trunk, not sure. Too bad my Tiburons alt is 45amps less though than the mustang alt. I don't know how much of a difference that makes
Pretty big difference

 
Crazy how people still think you needs gobs of power to be loud. A well designed system with 2000 watts can easily get plenty loud for DD. You don't even really need to go that high. Of course people still think you need 86 bullet tweeters to get loud too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif
Definition of a daily driver means different to some people. Some are fine with high 130s, low 140s but some like it at the high 140s/150s on music, then theres nutjobs that consider 160+ on music their daily

 
Definition of a daily driver means different to some people. Some are fine with high 130s, low 140s but some like it at the high 140s/150s on music, then theres nutjobs that consider 160+ on music their daily
Nutjob is me //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/up2something.gif.dd110ecf3ae4b76050d87598f2f8de7c.gif

 
Pretty big difference
****! I bought a car that I thought would be great for systems because it is a small hatchback with decent space in the trunk area, and the car also looks coo, not like most van shaped hatchbacks, but it turns out I need a new alternator or it kinda s*cks for bass.

I'm sure it's different for every car. But anybody got a general idea on how many amps my new alternator would need to run 2000rms(before box rise lol) and also a general idea on how much it would cost?

 
****! I bought a car that I thought would be great for systems because it is a small hatchback with decent space in the trunk area, that also looks cool btw but it turns out I need a new alternator or it kinda s*cks for bass.
I'm sure it's different for every car. But anybody got a general idea on how many amps my new alternator would need to run 2000rms(before box rise lol) and also a general idea on how much it would cost?
U could prly get a 240a for like $350 but sometime small cars have weird alts and they cost $$$$

 
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