Alpine mrp m500 and JL Audio 10W3V2-D2

[P_diaz82 10+ year member]

Will these two work well together? How should I adjust the amps settings to get the best sound out of the sub?

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[P_diaz82 10+ year member]

Can anybody help me please??? I also want to know what type of enclosure is best for this sub? And should I hook it up as a 2ohm load or a 4ohm?? Any help will be greatly appreciated!!!

 

[P_diaz82 10+ year member]

Why won't anyone help me out here??? Where's the love??

 

[kr15 5,000+ posts]

that amp is stable to 2ohms, what is the impedence of the sub?

 

[bugflipper 10+ year member]

Not a lot of love for JL here and that is a model that wasn't around very long I believe. The w3v3 has been out a while. I doubt the alpine can go to 1 ohm without going into protection mode. So with 1 sub you are looking at a 4 ohm load. Bottom pic Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams, One 2 ohm Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Speaker So it looks like you will be sending 300 to it which is what JL has as their rms. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/10W3v2_MAN.pdf They always recommend too small of a box. .75 sealed and 1.25 ported would be a good start. Play around with winisd and see what works best. LinearTeam On amp settings you may try searching for setting gain or something along those lines. I set by ear so can't help you there.

Good Luck

 

[pickup1 5,000+ posts]

set the lowpass around 80 hz.you wont get full power from the amp until you get another dual 2 sub.or a single dual 4.

 

[P_diaz82 10+ year member]

The sub is a dual 2ohm voice coil. And why no love for jl audio? I think they are great subs just a little overpriced.... Well thanks alot for the info, I really appreciate it guys. I have it in a sealed box right now but it sounds like air leaks out when I turn the volume up.... N I feel like the box is 2 small. What do u guys think about polyfill? Should I use any??

 

[bugflipper 10+ year member]

If a guy likes his sub and is willing to pay whatever for it, who cares what others think? You will find that guys love whatever is in and piss on the rest. I don't know how many times I hear of sundown amps being recommended for sq. They never do well in sq competition and are known for being noisy. That doesn't stop the guy who runs them from suggesting them for sq. Always hear guys trashing w7 but have yet to hear of a logical suggestion for a replacement sql sub that is better. Seems a lot of folks parrot whatever they hear without fact to back it up, and usually no experience in the matter as well. Personally I don't like the sound of w3, but if you do who cares? You are not buying your stuff to appease me. All that matters is it fits your listening style and you are happy with it. Yes on the polyfil, but get your air leaks sealed most importantly.

Good luck.

 

[P_diaz82 10+ year member]

Thanks a lot for ur help. I went out n got a sealed box that has .75 cubic air space in it, also went out n got a pound of polyfill.... I used half of it. Is that too much? Can u put too much in? It sounds like the bass is too tight...... Also what setting should I set my low pass filter to for that sub?

 

[bugflipper 10+ year member]

Low pass at 80 hz is good for most installs. You can go lower if needed. Personally I like 80 myself. Sub Box Polyester Fiberfill .5 lbs-.8 lbs should be about right. I use w7 in most of my vehicle and go 1.25 lbs per cube. A lot of people use 1-1. Read the net weight on the package and adjust from there.

Your sub should displace around .05 so .7 should be your internal volume which is perfect. W3v2 do sound a little tight. Hard to describe sound but they sound a little higher than the hz they are reproducing. You can try placing about 5 inches from the hatch/trunk of the vehicle with the sub facing the back. It will give you more output to boot. If it does not clear up the high sound, you can cut the crossover a little more. Make sure your bass boost is at 0 db as well.

 

[P_diaz82 10+ year member]

Ok I had the bass boost up about half way... I'll turn it all the way down, so then I should turn up the gain right? The bag of poly fill was 16oz which is a pound, and I used half. Does that sound like enough or too much? I don't know man, I'm thinking about selling this sub n getting the w3v3-2 n just wire it at 2ohms to get the full power of the amp. What do you think? Will the same box be ok for that sub?

 

[bugflipper 10+ year member]

Yes you will most likely have to raise the gain with the bass boost down to get back to the output you were at.

You are using .5 lbs, sounds about right to me. Also take it out and try without before you toss the sub.

I am sorry, I really can't give you an opinion on the 10w3v3. I was a JL dealer and still don't like them. They are an improvement over the v2. Neither is a terrible sub by any means. Just not the best out there for the money. .7 sealed will be good for most 10's out there.

What are you looking for? Sound quality? SPL? Or something in the middle? What kind of music do you listen to? May be able to get this one in line with what you need. If not as you said sell and start a new thread on recommendations.

Good Luck

 

[P_diaz82 10+ year member]

I want both, good sound n spl without breaking the bank n taking up all of my trunk. I generally listen to everything except country. Right now I'm listening more to heavy metal n rock. A little of hip hop n rap n reggae. Also will a stiffening cap help?

 

[bugflipper 10+ year member]

Don't waste the money on a cap. They are a lot of hype. You are really not running enough wattage to worry with any electrical system upgrade as long as your car is 90's or newer. W3 should not be bad for what you are listening to. If after trying different placements and settings you are not satisfied you may want to start a new thread on suggestions. An upgrade to a v3 would be an eclipse 6010 for $100. If you need even more spl maybe an re sx10, not sxx. Personally I would try to get the most out of what I already had before giving up on it. If it doesn't meet your standards sell and get what does.

 

[P_diaz82 10+ year member]

Thanks, I'll keep trying different things to see if I can get it to where I like it. So no cap, even if all my lights dim at night when the bass hits? I'm driving a 95 Mazda Millenia S. I looked at the specs for the 10w3v3 n it says it's continuous at 500 watts but on the chart it says it's optimum power was 300 watts, I don't get it? I think I'll also start another thread just to get some ideas. Thanks alot for your help, it really helped me out. Also one last question, why shouldn't I use the bass boost on my amp?

 

[bugflipper 10+ year member]

The first place to start with dimming lights is: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/wiring-electrical-installation-help/152355-official-caraudio-com-big-3-thread.html Your car has a 110 amp alternator. That should be plenty to run the car and and your stereo at night without dimming with the big 3. Most likely you have a 12 gauge wire charging your battery. Let's just say for example it is putting out 80 amps to the battery. To run the headlights, computer and all it may take 40 amps. Now your sub hits and it draws 50 amps. So the draw of the max rms your amp is putting out is momentarily more than the alt can handle. If the 1/0 wire can deliver 110 amps to the battery, problem solved with a small amp. If you go to a large amp, you will need a larger alt to keep up.

On the subs there is only 3 db difference in output between 300 and 600 watts. Although power doubles, sound output doesn't. So the more you throw to one the less length of time before the spider burns out. They rate them on a thermal scale instead of just an rms rating like most do.

Bass boost increases output at a certain frequency. Let's say it is 45 hz, since I have no idea about your amp. Gain is set properly and amp is putting out what it was designed to at every frequency from audible to 80, accept for when it hits at 45. That signal is being boosted 6 db over every other frequency. First of all it throws your sub bass out of balance. It will reproduce 45 hz louder than any other hz. The main problem is clipping though. The 6db burst is asking the amp to send more power than it is capable of delivering. When an amplifier is pushed to create a signal with more power than its power supply can produce, it will amplify the signal only up to its maximum capacity, at which point the signal can be amplified no further. As the signal simply "cuts" or "clips" at the maximum capacity of the amplifier, the signal is said to be "clipping". The extra signal which is beyond the capability of the amplifier is simply cut off, resulting in a sine wave becoming a distorted square-wave-type waveform. The easy way to say it is it will burn your **** up. The sub is the most likely to get damaged from being clipped all the time. The amp most likely will burn up as well. If your amp overheats and goes into protection mode, then turns back on after a cool down period that is usually from clipping. Eventually it will burn up inside if taken to that point enough.

 

[P_diaz82 10+ year member]

Thanks alot for your help. I'm gonna keep messing with it before I decide to get rid of it. I'm also gonna try to replace that wire from my alternator. Or I might just buy another sub and wire them as 2ohms together if that's possible??