All my gear is for sale. Getting ready to rebuild. Any special flat wall design tips?

[dudeogo]

So I've finally decided to just do what I'm told and do a 4 15s B Pillar Flat wall. Was kinda opposed to it at first because it's done so often, but don't fix it if it ain't broke I suppose. Are there any special things (besides vehicle shape) I need to keep in mind when designing a flat wall? like math wise? Once all my gear sells I should have a decent amount of cash new woofers.

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[Boominburban]

Make sure to account for all the Baffles in your calculations/dimensions. Make sure your seat is in a good comfortable position when you are figuring out front of the wall placement,don't forget to account for full excursion of the subs as well.

 

[dudeogo]

Make sure to account for all the Baffles in your calculations/dimensions. Make sure your seat is in a good comfortable position when you are figuring out front of the wall placement,don't forget to account for full excursion of the subs as well.

yeah I'm going to make sure my seats are able to stay all the way back. Thanks //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif also do you like those FU1250s i see in your sig? ive looked at them before but never jumped on it.

 

[Boominburban]

yeah I'm going to make sure my seats are able to stay all the way back. Thanks //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif also do you like those FU1250s i see in your sig? ive looked at them before but never jumped on it.

Yes, I do. Been running FU Audio for about two years now. No real issues, and I beat my subs up pretty good.

 

[dudeogo]

Yes, I do. Been running FU Audio for about two years now. No real issues, and I beat my subs up pretty good.

think 4 750v2 15s in a flat wall would boogie? im looking for like a 150-155

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

think 4 750v2 15s in a flat wall would boogie? im looking for like a 150-155

here's 2 12's at 150 with car moving

sorry forgot link

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Yes, I do. Been running FU Audio for about two years now. No real issues, and I beat my subs up pretty good.

u ever done 1 750? if so whats best box size 2.1 cfad or 2.35cf? (about 900rms) ever model them on wins? would like to see what others get my curve looks off..

 

[dudeogo]

u ever done 1 750? if so whats best box size 2.1 cfad or 2.35cf? (about 900rms) ever model them on wins? would like to see what others get my curve looks off..

Winisd isn't all that hard to use. And it's super helpful once you get it. If you need a hand doing it yourself I can help.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Winisd isn't all that hard to use. And it's super helpful once you get it. If you need a hand doing it yourself I can help.

i got some models on the fi alpha and other subs look great but this is what the 750 looks like

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

i just re input the specs and got a better looking curve idk what all is different

 

[dudeogo]

i just re input the specs and got a better looking curve idk what all is different

Seems good looking to me.

 

[Boominburban]

You must be modeling a 12" sub. 2.2cu.ft. is about perfect for that.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

I wouldn't waste my time to WALL a car with 4 750 watt subs honestly unless they were in a 4th or 6th order.

4 18" 4th order b pillar we built in a Nitro. You should have the same room. 4 Tantric HDD 18s on a Taramps 10k did a 57.

 

[Boominburban]

think 4 750v2 15s in a flat wall would boogie? im looking for like a 150-155

What vehicle is this in? IDR ...

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I wouldn't waste my time to WALL a car with 4 750 watt subs honestly unless they were in a 4th or 6th order.
4 18" 4th order b pillar we built in a Nitro. You should have the same room. 4 Tantric HDD 18s on a Taramps 10k did a 57.

He does NOT have enough room for 18s. He has 24-26 cube max. If he wants to keep things nice and square all around he has 33X40" internal dimensions on the baffle side. You'll have 300" ^2 of port without flaring out the sides coming up to the baffle and no way to mount 4 18s without angling them.... IMO not worth the trouble with so little airspace.

So I've finally decided to just do what I'm told and do a 4 15s B Pillar Flat wall. Was kinda opposed to it at first because it's done so often, but don't fix it if it ain't broke I suppose. Are there any special things (besides vehicle shape) I need to keep in mind when designing a flat wall? like math wise? Once all my gear sells I should have a decent amount of cash new woofers.

Check my build log. My only regrets are not using a few more layers on the baffle and back. Do 3 layers top bottom and sides 4 minimum on the back and 6 minimum on the front (I'm going to do 8 or 9 when I rebuild my baffle). Make the box as big as you can and keep it square all around (should give you roughly 24-26 cube), make the port as big as you can. You can very easily shrink the box and lengthen the port later if you want to experiment.

You're welcome to use my idea of a removable wall on the back so you can climb in and out to work, otherwise see if you can't angle out the sides towards the baffle to get a wide enough port to climb into.

If you have the money to buy subs all at once I'd still suggest grabbing those TRFs from the fella in California. I've sold to him in the past and he's a no BS guy to work with and you will not outperform those subs for the money AND with 2 18s you can easily keep all the sides of your box square and still have a large enough port to climb into to work. You could easily have 155 with those TRFs in a flat wall in your Jeep on 6-8K.

Putting batteries behind the front seat isn't optimum for the meter but It'll really help center the weight for a better ride. Do consider that, you can fit 4 group 34's behind your front seats.