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All my gear is for sale. Getting ready to rebuild. Any special flat wall design tips?
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<blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8595087" data-attributes="member: 614752"><p>He does NOT have enough room for 18s. He has 24-26 cube max. If he wants to keep things nice and square all around he has 33X40" internal dimensions on the baffle side. You'll have 300" ^2 of port without flaring out the sides coming up to the baffle and no way to mount 4 18s without angling them.... IMO not worth the trouble with so little airspace.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Check my build log. My only regrets are not using a few more layers on the baffle and back. Do 3 layers top bottom and sides 4 minimum on the back and 6 minimum on the front (I'm going to do 8 or 9 when I rebuild my baffle). Make the box as big as you can and keep it square all around (should give you roughly 24-26 cube), make the port as big as you can. You can very easily shrink the box and lengthen the port later if you want to experiment.</p><p></p><p>You're welcome to use my idea of a removable wall on the back so you can climb in and out to work, otherwise see if you can't angle out the sides towards the baffle to get a wide enough port to climb into.</p><p></p><p>If you have the money to buy subs all at once I'd still suggest grabbing those TRFs from the fella in California. I've sold to him in the past and he's a no BS guy to work with and you will not outperform those subs for the money AND with 2 18s you can easily keep all the sides of your box square and still have a large enough port to climb into to work. You could easily have 155 with those TRFs in a flat wall in your Jeep on 6-8K.</p><p></p><p>Putting batteries behind the front seat isn't optimum for the meter but It'll really help center the weight for a better ride. Do consider that, you can fit 4 group 34's behind your front seats.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="hispls, post: 8595087, member: 614752"] He does NOT have enough room for 18s. He has 24-26 cube max. If he wants to keep things nice and square all around he has 33X40" internal dimensions on the baffle side. You'll have 300" ^2 of port without flaring out the sides coming up to the baffle and no way to mount 4 18s without angling them.... IMO not worth the trouble with so little airspace. Check my build log. My only regrets are not using a few more layers on the baffle and back. Do 3 layers top bottom and sides 4 minimum on the back and 6 minimum on the front (I'm going to do 8 or 9 when I rebuild my baffle). Make the box as big as you can and keep it square all around (should give you roughly 24-26 cube), make the port as big as you can. You can very easily shrink the box and lengthen the port later if you want to experiment. You're welcome to use my idea of a removable wall on the back so you can climb in and out to work, otherwise see if you can't angle out the sides towards the baffle to get a wide enough port to climb into. If you have the money to buy subs all at once I'd still suggest grabbing those TRFs from the fella in California. I've sold to him in the past and he's a no BS guy to work with and you will not outperform those subs for the money AND with 2 18s you can easily keep all the sides of your box square and still have a large enough port to climb into to work. You could easily have 155 with those TRFs in a flat wall in your Jeep on 6-8K. Putting batteries behind the front seat isn't optimum for the meter but It'll really help center the weight for a better ride. Do consider that, you can fit 4 group 34's behind your front seats. [/QUOTE]
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Car Audio Equipment
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All my gear is for sale. Getting ready to rebuild. Any special flat wall design tips?
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