aftermarket system with factory head unit in a 04 Denali with bose

[wagonmaster 10+ year member]

I have a 04 Yukon Denali XL that I want to axe the Bose system and add amps, speakers, subs, etc but I want to keep the factory head unit, for now. The factory head has all I want, steering wheel control, RSE, Nav, XM, 6 disc changer. I know I can get adapters to use most of the factory accessories. But I am not ready to put in an aftermarket head as of yet.

Where would I tap into for signal source?

Thanks

Tim

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[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

What are you going to use to adapt the factory signal to aftermarket amplifiers? My recommendation is the JBL MS-8 OEM integration processor. This will connect to the outputs of the factory amplifier and Un-EQ the crossovers and time alignment.

 

[PSturmer 10+ year member]

i would go directly to the bose amplifier and dive at it with a 9v battery, a tone source from your HU, and a DMM. the bose amp has everything you need, it's jsut a matter of identifying what's what. if you cannot find the schematic then......

1. power off vehicle. take a door speaker out and put 9v across it's terminals. then go to the bose amp and find these 2 wires. do this for all speakers.

2. power on HU with lets say 300Hz. identify these input wires at bose amp. you will probably need to do this using a left and right channel track.

3. identify turn on lead and constant power at bose amp. (if you do end up using this turn on lead for your new amps, i would for safety use it to a run a relay. this way you do not draw too much power through the turn on from you HU and instead put the load on your new power source which you will be adding)

you may wanna check with crutch field. they may have a wiring harness to do exactly as you need- go from the bose input harness to something understadnable.

there may be crossover components between the bose amp and the door speakers. to test this you could put a tone generator (a computer's headphone out) in one side (at the bose amp) and measure AC volts at the door speaker. then vary the frequency. you'll see a big voltage difference between like 50Hz and 5000Hz if there is a hidden crossover. also i'd get a baseline voltage for each of these frequencies before testing the vehicle (hook DMM directly to computer) to compensate for any variance in your computer of DMM.

if there are no cross over's and you're not running lots of power to the door spekaers then i'd personally just go with the original wiring.

 

[PSturmer 10+ year member]

What are you going to use to adapt the factory signal to aftermarket amplifiers? My recommendation is the JBL MS-8 OEM integration processor. This will connect to the outputs of the factory amplifier and Un-EQ the crossovers and time alignment.

it's always best to take the source signal before it's processed. even with EQ correction after the bose amp the signal will never be as good as the one coming from the HU.