Ae Av?

More than one month. It took papermaker over 2 months to get his replaced under warranty, along with many, many others. Bottom line - stay away. The old ones may have been great, but if you want a driver you won't have to worry about dealing with warrantee problems with (regardless of reason, driver defect, waiting 2+ months for replacement, being told everything else about your system is at fault....) look elsewhere. Even if, have you looked at the lsit of reasons on the AE website of why you may be denied warrantee coverage??
You WERE at fault, and his warranty is no different from any other companies, you just feel you deserve something special, which you don't.

 
John just sent me one to test, I have it in a 1 cube box before displacement. I haven't had a lot of time on it yet, but is a great woofer so far and VERY well built, basically a tank. I have an SSA Icon motor sitting here, the AV dwarfs it, plus it it more solid. Also, the Lambda design is awesome. I have it on a 850 watt amp now, the Le on the thing is so low it reveled hiss from my Sundown SAE-1000D that you wouldn't notice on any other sub on the market. This sub, if it lives up to everything under usage just may be about the best SQ drive out there, plus still quite loud.
So we get to look forward to your constant *** kissing of AE subs now? You always gotta have a dick in your mouth huh?

 
You WERE at fault, and his warranty is no different from any other companies, you just feel you deserve something special, which you don't.
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Suuure I was. To date that is the only driver I've had an issue with (besides a crappy used Audiobahn 12 back in '99 I popped in a week off a Punch 40i). My (4) ED 11Ov2's are still pounding away just fine.

So we get to look forward to your constant *** kissing of AE subs now? You always gotta have a dick in your mouth huh?

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/handclap.gif.0c301076f534e244f0460706894f19e0.gif:handclap:

 
You WERE at fault, and his warranty is no different from any other companies, you just feel you deserve something special, which you don't.
Awesome, get over it

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From MY testing the AV line held up very well. I had a few to test and also watched the entire build process and testing of each sub. All I could say is I was super impressed.

John hand builds the subwoofers with all American made parts minus the ferrite and basket(for the time being). He literally aligns these coils to .0004" and I've watched him with shim the dozens of subs to these measurements. Each subwoofer was put through rigorious testing and bad ones were thrown in a big dumpster out back. Literally he has a metal dumpster with motors and parts filling it. Over a dozen members from CA were present to watch as Kendogs broken sub held up to 4000+wrms for nearly 30 seconds free airing, also playing notes at over 1khz and down to 15hz.

Here is a drop in vid with the AV H that John let me play with. Just to give you an idea.

http://s213.photobucket.com/albums/cc256/usask8er1/?action=view&current=MVI_4193.flv

 
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Suuure I was. To date that is the only driver I've had an issue with (besides a crappy used Audiobahn 12 back in '99 I popped in a week off a Punch 40i). My (4) ED 11Ov2's are still pounding away just fine.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/handclap.gif.0c301076f534e244f0460706894f19e0.gif:handclap:
Ok, then tell me why I had no problems free airing an AV12 with over 1kw balls out? I think it is pretty obvious that you have no clue what you are doing.

 
Ok, then tell me why I had no problems free airing an AV12 with over 1kw balls out? I think it is pretty obvious that you have no clue what you are doing.
I never had any issues feeding the driver alot of power either. Not once. After a few months, I started to notice a reduction in output, especially higher-frequency output, which was probably attributed to the metal in the gap slicing into the VC. At the time, nobody knew it was metal in the gap, I assumed incorrect tolerances or machining errors, which are still a possible cause. I built the enclosure out of wood, in an area where there was no metal grinding, and I haven't done any metal grinding or extensive drilling inside the car to create anywhere near that much metal to somehow make it's way into the enclosure, and into the magnetic gap. John tried to blame it on my amp, my enclosure, yadda yadda yadda. Amp was fine, enclosure was built to his specs, etc.

And no matter wtf you want to say, I have months upon months of chatlogs between John and I, and not once does he say 'box the ****er up and ship it back'. On the contrary. Just like you keep doing, it's all my fault :/ NOTHING came about any of this until I started *****ing publicly. NOBODY believed me. Then papermaker got the driver, saw it's faults (twice). Others started to pop up. Not once did John offer to take the driver back until there started to be a small uproar on the forums about his shitty drivers. Then it took MONTHS for these people to get their drivers back. Completely unacceptable.

You can go **** yourself, btw. Plz take the **** out of your mouth and open your eyes for just a few minutes. You've harped since day one that these are perfect drivers (much like I did before I actually had an issue). Wait and see how you're treated when you actually do have an issue. I'll take my JL/ED/ancient Orion/pretty much anybody elses drivers who will actually stand behind their drivers and not put you thru test-dummy stages of product development (I've yet to ever have an ED driver fail (or any other new driver I'v ever purchased and pounded the snot out of), an these are 4 of 7 that I've owned, so don't try to ***** at me about their warranty either - I've enver had to use it).

Like I said - buyer beware.

 
I never had any issues feeding the driver alot of power either. Not once. After a few months, I started to notice a reduction in output, especially higher-frequency output, which was probably attributed to the metal in the gap slicing into the VC. At the time, nobody knew it was metal in the gap, I assumed incorrect tolerances or machining errors, which are still a possible cause. I built the enclosure out of wood, in an area where there was no metal grinding, and I haven't done any metal grinding or extensive drilling inside the car to create anywhere near that much metal to somehow make it's way into the enclosure, and into the magnetic gap. John tried to blame it on my amp, my enclosure, yadda yadda yadda. Amp was fine, enclosure was built to his specs, etc.
And no matter wtf you want to say, I have months upon months of chatlogs between John and I, and not once does he say 'box the ****er up and ship it back'. On the contrary. Just like you keep doing, it's all my fault :/ NOTHING came about any of this until I started *****ing publicly. NOBODY believed me. Then papermaker got the driver, saw it's faults (twice). Others started to pop up. Not once did John offer to take the driver back until there started to be a small uproar on the forums about his shitty drivers. Then it took MONTHS for these people to get their drivers back. Completely unacceptable.

You can go **** yourself, btw. Plz take the **** out of your mouth and open your eyes for just a few minutes. You've harped since day one that these are perfect drivers (much like I did before I actually had an issue). Wait and see how you're treated when you actually do have an issue. I'll take my JL/ED/ancient Orion/pretty much anybody elses drivers who will actually stand behind their drivers and not put you thru test-dummy stages of product development (I've yet to ever have an ED driver fail (or any other new driver I'v ever purchased and pounded the snot out of), an these are 4 of 7 that I've owned, so don't try to ***** at me about their warranty either - I've enver had to use it).

Like I said - buyer beware.
Funny you mention papermaker, the guy who ran more than rated power to the sub at high volumes in a box with too large of a port under tuning using no SSF. Gee, I wonder why he "killed" the sub. BTW, I saw the sub papermaker broke, it took 4.5kW for 30 seconds plus before that it played everything from 15hZ to 1.5kHz with no problems what so ever. Seriously, had it not been for the bent cone I would have taken that sub no problem, it performed flawlessly. I'm sorry if you don;t know how to handle a sub, bit for those that do this is a great driver.

 
I have an SSA Icon motor sitting here, the AV dwarfs it, plus it it more solid.
Please tell me how the motor is more solid. I would like to know your process of taking each motor apart and which one had ant trails in it?

I have to agree with others now on your views. You do seem to have a **** in your mouth of a company at times. No hard feelings, just noticed the hard member in your mouth //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
Funny you mention papermaker, the guy who ran more than rated power to the sub at high volumes in a box with too large of a port under tuning using no SSF. Gee, I wonder why he "killed" the sub. BTW, I saw the sub papermaker broke, it took 4.5kW for 30 seconds plus before that it played everything from 15hZ to 1.5kHz with no problems what so ever. Seriously, had it not been for the bent cone I would have taken that sub no problem, it performed flawlessly. I'm sorry if you don;t know how to handle a sub, bit for those that do this is a great driver.
This is bullshit. For one, to 1750.1's will not produce 4.5kw. #2, he isn't a moron and set gains correctly WITH SSF. From the looks of it, you could blow 10 of these woofers and still say they are great so you are useless in this thread.

FYI: I can't ****ing stand Kendogg, so no I am not sticking up for that piece of shit.

 
This is bullshit. For one, to 1750.1's will not produce 4.5kw. #2, he isn't a moron and set gains correctly WITH SSF. From the looks of it, you could blow 10 of these woofers and still say they are great so you are useless in this thread.
FYI: I can't ****ing stand Kendogg, so no I am not sticking up for that piece of shit.
The 4.5kw was when John wall socketed the sub that papermaker sent back to him, not how much papermaker put on it. If I blew the woofers or had problems I wouldn't stand up for them, but I have seen them being made and used them, they are very high quality and well made.

 
here's the bottom line, good subwoofer or flea market junk it does not matter. if you can't do a warranty swap in less than a month you do not need to be in business.

 
here's the bottom line, good subwoofer or flea market junk it does not matter. if you can't do a warranty swap in less than a month you do not need to be in business.
Same warranty applies to all subwoofer companies (to the best of my knowledge): If the subwoofer fails due to user error it is the users fault, if the product fails due to build quality/parts then the company will take full care of it.

John had the subwoofer sent back to him where once again over a dozen members from CA inspected it, and we all witnessed it play as well. The consensus was user error based off of the damage and overexagerated story behind the performance of the subwoofer. fact that the subwoofer still worked and took 4x the rated power still to this day kinda blows me away

 
Same warranty applies to all subwoofer companies (to the best of my knowledge): If the subwoofer fails due to user error it is the users fault, if the product fails due to build quality/parts then the company will take full care of it.
John had the subwoofer sent back to him where once again over a dozen members from CA inspected it, and we all witnessed it play as well. The consensus was user error based off of the damage and overexagerated story behind the performance of the subwoofer. fact that the subwoofer still worked and took 4x the rated power still to this day kinda blows me away
i was not even talking about that particular subwoofer. i have heard several people ( on forum's ) talk about the warranty turn around times being measured in months.

 
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