Advanced front stage opinions.

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

This is a area I need a little advice about. I have a layout and I would like to know if the equipment I have chosen will all work together, and I can set it up like I think I can. My new sub box is flat from 26-60hz, but it drops off steep after that. I need to fill that gap from 60-120hz and I want to go active to do it. Head unit is a CDA-117, the HSKs will get replaced cause I have OCD issues with having everything match.

Here is the layout.

HU- 117

Crossover- Audiocontrol DQXS ( will this be able to set SS, LPFs, and HPFs and all 3 amps? ) Thats is my main question, I read the manual but I dont get it. I have a CC-1 but with this being digital I guess I wont need it.

Sub amp- DC 5K Subsonic set to 26, LPF set to 60 24db slope

Mid bass amp- JL 300/2 HPF set to 80 LPF set to 140 12db slope

Mid range and highs amp- JL 300/4 covering the rest 2 channels mid range, 2 highs active 12db slope

Subs- DC XL m2 12s

Mid bass- HAT L8v2

Mid range and highs- HAT L4SE and the L1 Pro R2

All glassed in the front doors.

Click to read more...

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

I dont know much about Alpine units, but can't you add IMPRINT and run a 3 way front stage that way? Then you'd have control over everything from xover points to T/A, slope, etc right from the HU.

Also, I dont think I'd run a 3 way with an 8, 6.5, and tweeter. I'd drop to a smaller midrange driver and allow it to play higher into the frequencies and have that "point source" that a 3 way front is good for.

Too, if this will all be glassed into the front doors be sure the midbass and midrange have separate enclosures.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I was just looking over the HATs, they have a lot options. I could get the 8,4, and tweeter. Its only 500 more. 500 sounds like a lot but 2300 and 2800 dont. Im not sure about imprint having that many options. I dont really want to hook a lap top up to it everytime I want to change something. The HU already has T/A

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

I was just looking over the HATs, they have a lot options. I could get the 8,4, and tweeter. Its only 500 more. 500 sounds like a lot but 2300 and 2800 dont. Im not sure about imprint having that many options. I dont really want to hook a lap top up to it everytime I want to change something. The HU already has T/A

Why not go with raw drivers from PE or Madisound? You can still get all the drivers to match and you will most definitely get better bang for your buck than with HAT stuff. (Example: My Tang Band 4 inchers I had were on sale for $30 each on PE and when reviewed by a few people on DIYMA ranked equal to the HAT L4) So, its definitely worth a look into if you can save money and get the same performance if not better.

Honestly, for what you are wanting, to fill the gap from 60 to 120hz, I believe a 2 way would suffice. Matter of fact, you may even be able to get your current front stage to do it. I run the same xover points and slopes between my subs and midbass that you have planned, and with some T/A and EQ work the midbass is very strong. Its an option....

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Dp

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Why not go with raw drivers from PE or Madisound? You can still get all the drivers to match and you will most definitely get better bang for your buck than with HAT stuff. (Example: My Tang Band 4 inchers I had were on sale for $30 each on PE and when reviewed by a few people on DIYMA ranked equal to the HAT L4) So, its definitely worth a look into if you can save money and get the same performance if not better.
Honestly, for what you are wanting, to fill the gap from 60 to 120hz, I believe a 2 way would suffice. Matter of fact, you may even be able to get your current front stage to do it. I run the same xover points and slopes between my subs and midbass that you have planned, and with some T/A and EQ work the midbass is very strong. Its an option....

I think my HSKs will be fine. Ill have the new box in next week and know for sure. They play down to 60 strong I just dont know if thay are going to be able to keep up. If they get close Im just going to glass them out to make it work. I guess im just planning for the worst, the graph on the 6th order drops off bad right after it has a big db spike around 60hz. I like the HATs that I have heard, they are worth the coin

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

No external processors needed. Get the Imprint for the 117. It is active capable with it.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

No external processors needed. Get the Imprint for the 117. It is active capable with it.

I will be able to set all the filters up like I'm thinking? SS and every HPF, LPF?

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

I will be able to set all the filters up like I'm thinking? SS and every HPF, LPF?

Do you know what active is?

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

I think my HSKs will be fine. Ill have the new box in next week and know for sure. They play down to 60 strong I just dont know if thay are going to be able to keep up. If they get close Im just going to glass them out to make it work. I guess im just planning for the worst, the graph on the 6th order drops off bad right after it has a big db spike around 60hz. I like the HATs that I have heard, they are worth the coin

When its all installed, I need to make a trip to VA and hear that beast. lol But, I think the HSKs will keep up just fine. Something I did with my T/A that gave me a HUGE midbass increase that you may want to try out was, at a moderate level with a song with a nice bass line, I held the delay button on my passenger mid and kept delaying it until it seemed like the sub moved to the front, then adjusted the other mid to center the stage. That way the subs and mids hit your ears at the same time. Seems like the sub is in my dash now and, like I said, the midbass increased dramatically.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

I will be able to set all the filters up like I'm thinking? SS and every HPF, LPF?

Yupp

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Do you know what active is?

Yes, the basic concept. but I have never tired to lay it out with a 4 channel, 2 channel, and a sub amp.

Im guessing the sub amp will be a stand alone and Ill run 3 way off imprint? Thats where im lost

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

When its all installed, I need to make a trip to VA and hear that beast. lol But, I think the HSKs will keep up just fine. Something I did with my T/A that gave me a HUGE midbass increase that you may want to try out was, at a moderate level with a song with a nice bass line, I held the delay button on my passenger mid and kept delaying it until it seemed like the sub moved to the front, then adjusted the other mid to center the stage. That way the subs and mids hit your ears at the same time. Seems like the sub is in my dash now and, like I said, the midbass increased dramatically.

With the last "not working" box it sounded like the subs where in your face

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

As far as I know, since it only has 3 sets of output RCAs, you can't run a fully active 3 way front and sub with IMPRINT, only active 2 way with sub (unless you run quasi-active with the midbass and midrange active and a tweeter with a cap, if you really want a 3 way)

But, the Imprint would be nice investment to go active with your HSKs.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

When its all installed, I need to make a trip to VA and hear that beast. lol But, I think the HSKs will keep up just fine. Something I did with my T/A that gave me a HUGE midbass increase that you may want to try out was, at a moderate level with a song with a nice bass line, I held the delay button on my passenger mid and kept delaying it until it seemed like the sub moved to the front, then adjusted the other mid to center the stage. That way the subs and mids hit your ears at the same time. Seems like the sub is in my dash now and, like I said, the midbass increased dramatically.

I hope they keep up cause this is WAY over my head