Adding batt, look ok?

[Phlipbak 10+ year member]

Here is a sketch in paintbrush (best I have ever done, which is pathetic lol.. took a while)..

Can someone just skim and tell me if it looks good? I'm trying not to spend 500000$ on fuses lol so I did the main ones needed..

Thanks!

Trevor

P.S. What are some cheap batt terminals that will take these wires (I only have five red ring spades for 1/0g in red, and 5 1/0g ring spades in black, so I'll have to use batt terminals that don't use ring spades but use direct inputs prolly) thanks!

OOPS!! The black is not positive wire like the key says, I got it switched in the key lol..

Click to read more...

 

[01 S 10 10+ year member]

Looks good, I also have my Batcaps grounded to the chassis also, instead of the front batt. but both work well for most people

 

[Phlipbak 10+ year member]

I would ground the BC2k to chassis but they sad specifically not too...

What are some cheap batt terminals that will take these wires (I only have five red ring spades for 1/0g in red, and 5 1/0g ring spades in black, so I'll have to use batt terminals that don't use ring spades but use direct inputs prolly) thanks!

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

You don't need the fuse right at the alt. But you do need one right after your run from the front bat and one right before going into your rear bat. Those two are the most important.

THe two fuses right before the amps are unnecessary providing both of your amps come with onboard fuses.

 

[DidUHearThat? 10+ year member]

I'm assuming the 770 CCA battery is in the front stock location and the Batcap is in the rear?

You don't need 2 fuses between the alt and the main battery, one near the main battery is fine.

You DO NEED, 2 fuses between the main battery and the rear battery. Otherwise if the wire going thru the fire wall gets cut and shorts that wire will glow red hot, burn thru everything, explode both batteries and set your car on fire.

I just did installed a second battery and I used an isolator as well to prevent the batteries from draining each other.

After the second battery, there should be a fuse on the wire, near the battery for each wire that leaves the battery to the amps. Not near the amps. Othewise the wire from the battery to the fuse is unprotected. You could run short wire to a fused distro block instead of buying two seperate fuses.

Any positive wire from or to the batteries must be fused within 12 inches of the battery. From battery to battery that means there are two fuses inline. You don't need a fuse near the alternator, just the battery.

 

[01 S 10 10+ year member]

I would ground the BC2k to chassis but they sad specifically not too...

Someone from Xstatic said that? wonder why //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif any reasoning for this? Mine are grounded to the frame and do great, but i'd still like to know.

 

[DidUHearThat? 10+ year member]

Someone from Xstatic said that? wonder why //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif any reasoning for this? Mine are grounded to the frame and do great, but i'd still like to know.

I think the idea is that in extremely large/high current systems the ground might not provide enough current in certain locations, especially on certain cars. If a particular fender was only rivited in 2-3 locations with small contacts it is possible they could not provide enough current capacity for a very large current system.

I think this is very unlikely in most systems, on most vehicles, and in most locations.

If your trying to power a few 10,000 watt amps with three 350 amp alternators and a dozen batteries in a plastic sports car, then running extra ground wires is cheap insurance. Otherwise I wouldn't bother. The floor pan on most cars is good for several hundred to a thousand amps at least.