Accurate 6.5"s?

[medeirosp]

Hi,

I prefer accurate speakers better than ones that can take a lot of power. I know some can do both but I don't think I can afford those. I have an old set of Kenwood Excelon KFC-XR901 6"x9" s and component KFC-XR51P 5.25". Couldn't fit 6.5" in the car I previously owned. I ran an inexpensive California CA600m amp to drive an Image Dynamics 10" sub and a Soundstream EGA4160 amp to drive the 4 channels. Had an Alpine head unit. System sounded good enough for me..... all for under $600. Lot of people crap on the Kenwoods but I demoed them and for accuracy, they blew away a lot of speakers in the $200 price range.

I just bought a 2014 Honda Accord LX with a 4 channel speaker system that can't **** enough. It takes 6.5" in the front and rear. I still have the old equipment sitting in a box but don't want to cut metal to fit 6x9s in the rear and I think 6.5" components would be better than the 5-1/4"s. I want to use the stock head unit for a lot of reasons I won't go into. I just bought tweeter sails for the front since the system doesn't have components.

Any suggestions on some accurate 6.5" would be greatly appreciated

Thanks!

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[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

Hi,
I prefer accurate speakers better than ones that can take a lot of power. I know some can do both but I don't think I can afford those. I have an old set of Kenwood Excelon KFC-XR901 6"x9" s and component KFC-XR51P 5.25". Couldn't fit 6.5" in the car I previously owned. I ran an inexpensive California CA600m amp to drive an Image Dynamics 10" sub and a Soundstream EGA4160 amp to drive the 4 channels. Had an Alpine head unit. System sounded good enough for me..... all for under $600. Lot of people crap on the Kenwoods but I demoed them and for accuracy, they blew away a lot of speakers in the $200 price range.

I just bought a 2014 Honda Accord LX with a 4 channel speaker system that can't **** enough. It takes 6.5" in the front and rear. I still have the old equipment sitting in a box but don't want to cut metal to fit 6x9s in the rear and I think 6.5" components would be better than the 5-1/4"s. I want to use the same head unit for a lot of reasons I won't go into. I just bought tweeter sails for the front since the system doesn't have components.

Any suggestions on some accurate 6.5" would be greatly appreciated

Thanks!

The Kenwood Excelons are very nice ...If you can get lucky enough to find a set ...get a set of XR S17P's they retailed for over $600 a set when they came out....I was lucky enough to get two sets for $400 each ...I still have one set BNIB and planning on using them soon...Ihey were much cleaner than my MB Quart Q's and Boston Pro series...very clean and accurate midbass with authority and the highs were crisp and clear....

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

I like the Anarchy.

 

[medeirosp]

Thanks guys.

This might not be the thread to ask this but I'll give it a shot since I spec'd out all my components in this thread. My head unit is a 4 channel 160 watt Honda. I'd like to run a subwoofer with a dedicated two channel amp that I plan to bridge as well as run a 4 channel amp to my front and rears. I saw a vid from sonic electronix that shows how to install a LOC on my exact vehicle. The guy ran it to a JL amp and ran 9 wire back to the head/speaker wires he snipped at the connector. This way he didn't have to run dedicated wire to the speakers. Seems straight forward. Any recommendations on how to power the amp dedicated to the sub? Can I tap off the high level lines at the head before they connect to the LOC and run a high level signal to the amp? Just worried that trying to control the gain of the system could be a problem. Hope the question wasn't too stupid.

thanks

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

Thanks guys.
This might not be the thread to ask this but I'll give it a shot since I spec'd out all my components in this thread. My head unit is a 4 channel 160 watt Honda. I'd like to run a subwoofer with a dedicated two channel amp that I plan to bridge as well as run a 4 channel amp to my front and rears. I saw a vid from sonic electronix that shows how to install a LOC on my exact vehicle. The guy ran it to a JL amp and ran 9 wire back to the head/speaker wires he snipped at the connector. This way he didn't have to run dedicated wire to the speakers. Seems straight forward. Any recommendations on how to power the amp dedicated to the sub? Can I tap off the high level lines at the head before they connect to the LOC and run a high level signal to the amp? Just worried that trying to control the gain of the system could be a problem. Hope the question wasn't too stupid.

thanks

You need to focus more on your front stage ...an Amp would be a nice addition...keep rear speakers as fill only...most factory dual cones are perfect for that and run minimum power deck or tiny amp...Substage is all that is needed for Impact from the rear...if done properly sub freq is non directional so everything set up properly will blend together

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

my build log will show you what's possible with our cars. link in sig.

this is the response of the factory head unit:

the factory DSP is tailored to the factory speakers. you want to use a DSP to counteract the factory EQ. tap the front speaker output as it is much stronger than the rear.