$800-$1000CAD To Spend. Whole System Needed. **LOOK INSIDE**

[95BlackGA 5,000+ posts]

Big 3 as in 3 12s? And im from Toronto as you can tell by my username
Is car audio the same as computer hardware? Does it go down in price dramatically over the period of a month for example? If I was to buy this system with those Type Rs in 1-2 months, how much money could I save if I bought the exact same equipment? Just wondering..//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

Big 3 as in electrical upgrade. Use the 'Search' function that this forum has, that most new people can't seem to find, and you'll understand what the Big 3 is. Car audio is not like computer hardware. More often than not, older car audio equipment will appreciate in value, as opposed to computer hardware. If you look around for deals, or even used equipment, you could save a good $200 at least, and that's talking about now. Prices will drop in the future, but you're not going to save a huge amount, like you would with computer parts.

 

[905_905 10+ year member]

95BlackGA , youre still mad eh? You seem to have frozen my thread Just because im new to this, and I looked at something from my point of view and didnt like it due to looks/specs, does not mean you should catch hard feelings over this..now lets all be friends

1. What is this Hz-tuning stuff? What are boxes usually tuned to? and how do you know what tunage you need for your woofers? Does it sound better when its more Hz, or less?

2. And what kind of Digital Capacitor would I need? The Digital and regular costs about the same so why not go with the digital, would I need 1.5,2,2.5 for my setup? How will this device contribute to the system?

 

[95BlackGA 5,000+ posts]

95BlackGA , youre still mad eh? You seem to have frozen my thread Just because im new to this, and I looked at something from my point of view and didnt like it due to looks/specs, does not mean you should catch hard feelings over this..now lets all be friends
1. What is this Hz-tuning stuff? What are boxes usually tuned to? and how do you know what tunage you need for your woofers? Does it sound better when its more Hz, or less?

2. And what kind of Digital Capacitor would I need? The Digital and regular costs about the same so why not go with the digital, would I need 1.5,2,2.5 for my setup? How will this device contribute to the system?

I dropped it a while ago. I was saying the search thing, because it would have taken you less time to use the search function, than it would have been to ask about it.

Hz-Tuning : Used for ported/bandpass boxes. It is the amount of tuning the port has. I.E. I have a 2.16 cubic foot box, tuned to 36Hz. Higher tuning will have higher output. Lower tuning, will extend the 'low end' output. For sound quality, you'd most likely want to tune lower. For a combination of output, and sound quality, you'd tune to the mid-to-high 30's. Most companies that are known here, supply default tuning for ported boxes. You can change the tuning, depending on your preferences. If you don't find tuning suggestions, and you want 'optimal' tuning, there are several programs that are used in conjunction with the T/S (Theile/Small) parameters.

As for capacitors... They are worthless. Just a big bulky paper weight. They are 'suppose' to stiffen the voltage, so you don't have voltage drops while running a 'high demand' system, if your alternator can't supply the amperage needed quick enough. On a lot of cars, you can run 1000WRMS systems, on just stock electrical. If you're running a 'high demand' system, that is going to pull a lot of amperage from the electrical, you'd want to get a second BATTERY, or a H/O (High Output) alternator. Another thing about batteries, you can run a system with the car off, longer, without draining the battery, and exposing your equipment to low voltage, which will result in clipping, and can make a perfect component fail. I personally don't recommend running a stereo with high electrical demands, in a car while it is not running, unless you have the battery bank to back up the electrical demands. If you're wanting to add a second battery, just to be safe, I like the Optima Redtops, or the Kinetik HC600. Cheap batteries, and will do nothing but good.

 

[DDSC 10+ year member]

I dropped it a while ago. I was saying the search thing, because it would have taken you less time to use the search function, than it would have been to ask about it.
Hz-Tuning : Used for ported/bandpass boxes. It is the amount of tuning the port has. I.E. I have a 2.16 cubic foot box, tuned to 36Hz. Higher tuning will have higher output. Lower tuning, will extend the 'low end' output. For sound quality, you'd most likely want to tune lower. For a combination of output, and sound quality, you'd tune to the mid-to-high 30's. Most companies that are known here, supply default tuning for ported boxes. You can change the tuning, depending on your preferences. If you don't find tuning suggestions, and you want 'optimal' tuning, there are several programs that are used in conjunction with the T/S (Theile/Small) parameters.

As for capacitors... They are worthless. Just a big bulky paper weight. They are 'suppose' to stiffen the voltage, so you don't have voltage drops while running a 'high demand' system, if your alternator can't supply the amperage needed quick enough. On a lot of cars, you can run 1000WRMS systems, on just stock electrical. If you're running a 'high demand' system, that is going to pull a lot of amperage from the electrical, you'd want to get a second BATTERY, or a H/O (High Output) alternator. Another thing about batteries, you can run a system with the car off, longer, without draining the battery, and exposing your equipment to low voltage, which will result in clipping, and can make a perfect component fail. I personally don't recommend running a stereo with high electrical demands, in a car while it is not running, unless you have the battery bank to back up the electrical demands. If you're wanting to add a second battery, just to be safe, I like the Optima Redtops, or the Kinetik HC600. Cheap batteries, and will do nothing but good.

^^^what he said:

 

[905_905 10+ year member]

Wow, thanks for the great response, I guess screw the capacitor

1. As for the battery, how long does one battery last when you have a system similar to the one im trying to build for around $1000CAD, how often would it need to be replaced/ or re-charged?

2. When picking a system type youre trying to build..what would you call this? http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/xtgrovex/?action=view&current=IMGP8218.flv

Im not going to lie, but that sounds retarted from the outside, I know people set their systems this way to run tests/ flex their car/ etc..I hope they dont drive around like that though How are those Type Rs going to sound, I want me some sexy bass that can go loud but I want to also hear perfect vocals and instrumentals while the bass is on

3. How do you exactly tune a box you just made out of a few pieces of wood? Silly question, excuse that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[95BlackGA 5,000+ posts]

Wow, thanks for the great response, I guess screw the capacitor
1. As for the battery, how long does one battery last when you have a system similar to the one im trying to build for around $1000CAD, how often would it need to be replaced/ or re-charged?

If you run the system on the battery without the car running there's not real answer, 'cause you can recharge it, but only a few times if it's not a deep cycle battery. I'm not very good with batteries, so maybe someone else can help you out, or you can search around? Your alternator supplies that majority of the power to your stereo while the car is running, so unless you have a really weak alternator, or you run the system without the car on, you don't really need to worry about the batteries too awful much.

2. When picking a system type youre trying to build..what would you call this? http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/xtgrovex/?action=view&current=IMGP8218.flv
Im not going to lie, but that sounds retarted from the outside, I know people set their systems this way to run tests/ flex their car/ etc..I hope they dont drive around like that though How are those Type Rs going to sound, I want me some sexy bass that can go loud but I want to also hear perfect vocals and instrumentals while the bass is on

Type R's are great subs all around, they can get really loud, and sound decent. If you ask any car audio person that has been in the 'game' a while, they'll tell you it's more of the install than it is the products, which truly it is. You can put on of those Type R's in a good box tuned to around 30Hz, and compare it to the same equipment in a box tuned to high 40's to mid 50's, and they'll sound completely different. Since you do want to hear your music, and not just the bass, I HIGHLY suggest going with Phoenix Gold RSDs for a budget front stage. They are great budget speakers, that get loud and sound great at the same time, some people have said they sound better than more 'Higher End' equipment. There are three different abbreviations that you need to understand when you come into the car audio, or any audio world. SQ, SQL, and SPL.

SQ = Sound Quality. To reproduce sounds with amazing accuracy, and sounds like you're sitting there in the recording studio while the track is being recorded. You will give up output to achieve this.

SQL = Sound Quality Level. You want a sound stage that will deliver an accurate reproduction, but you will give up some of the accuracy, for output. This is a mix between SQ, and SPL.

SPL = Sound Pressure Level. You want to be loud... You don't care if there is 'sloppy' (inaccurate) bass, as long as you are loud.

Most people these days want an SQL setup in a car that is their daily driver. Who wants to listen to garbled sound, but still want to get loud in the process? Most people. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

3. How do you exactly tune a box you just made out of a few pieces of wood? Silly question, excuse that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Box tuning is a little more complicated than throwing a few pieces of wood together. There are several different ways to tune a box. Look in the Enclosure section of the forums.

 

[905_905 10+ year member]

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17540

Quick question about those speakers: what are those 2 rectangular boxes?

And it looks like the speakers come with a tweeter for each speaker that you buy, which is great!! Seems like a great product, and a great package. Definitely going with these speakers, unless I find a better deal

Also, whats the different between regular car speakers, and comp speakers?

 

[02accord 10+ year member]

man, I'd have a field day with that budget.

 

[905_905 10+ year member]

man, I'd have a field day with that budget.

What do you mean?

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17540
Quick question about those speakers: what are those 2 rectangular boxes?

And it looks like the speakers come with a tweeter for each speaker that you buy, which is great!! Seems like a great product, and a great package. Definitely going with these speakers, unless I find a better deal

Also, whats the different between regular car speakers, and comp speakers?

 

[905_905 10+ year member]

1. What are those 2 rectangular boxes for the phoenix gold rsd speakers?

2. Whats the difference between regular car speakers, and comp speakers?

3. Do the phoenix speakers come with tweeters? (looks like it by the picture on the wholesale website)

 

[j_alexander 10+ year member]

1. What are those 2 rectangular boxes for the phoenix gold rsd speakers?
2. Whats the difference between regular car speakers, and comp speakers?

3. Do the phoenix speakers come with tweeters? (looks like it by the picture on the wholesale website)

1. those rectangles are called crossovers which you plug in your tweeter and speaker into, they basically allow you to run new comps off and amp i belive (correct me if im wrong guys).

2. they surve the same purpose to play the lyrics and sound of your music while filling in the mid bass areas, the differences are RMS power handling sound quality and overall better sound in most cases depending on what your stock system consists of.

hope this helps a little //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[DePratt 10+ year member]

1. use the search function

2. do research on your own. hell google anything you dont understand then ask your ?s

3. and when people help you from here, and they arnt getting yelled at... they are probably smarter than your friend

4. to ppl helping him dont u wish u had $1000 for your first setup

 

[905_905 10+ year member]

1. use the search function
2. do research on your own. hell google anything you dont understand then ask your ?s

3. and when people help you from here, and they arnt getting yelled at... they are probably smarter than your friend

4. to ppl helping him dont u wish u had $1000 for your first setup

Congratz, thanks for going back to something and not answering a simple question:crazy:

 

[95BlackGA 5,000+ posts]

1. those rectangles are called crossovers which you plug in your tweeter and speaker into, they basically allow you to run new comps off and amp i belive (correct me if im wrong guys).
2. they surve the same purpose to play the lyrics and sound of your music while filling in the mid bass areas, the differences are RMS power handling sound quality and overall better sound in most cases depending on what your stock system consists of.

hope this helps a little //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

1. Crossovers. One of the best friends to a speaker that can not handle certain frequencies. Such as tweeters. The best way I can describe these in simple terms without drawing out the explanation, would be. Frequency filters. You don't want your tweeter to play mid/sub bass, and blow them? That's where the crossover comes in. It'll 'filter' out the low frequencies, that can damage tweeters. Almost any coaxial or (Pre-assembled) component system has some sort of crossover. There is an active setup, which I'm not too familiar with, and probably won't be, because I'm still a car audio 'rookie', and then there is passive, which is what you would commonly see on most coaxial and (Pre-assembled) component systems. You don't need to have them, but unless you're running an active setup (crossing over with an external source), or want to blow your tweeter.

1. use the search function
2. do research on your own. hell google anything you dont understand then ask your ?s

3. and when people help you from here, and they arnt getting yelled at... they are probably smarter than your friend

4. to ppl helping him dont u wish u had $1000 for your first setup

1. We are a forum, yes there is a search function, and yes a lot of this has been discussed before, and a lot better explanations have been given. There's no reason why he can't ask for himself, without searching.

2. Maybe he did, maybe he didn't understand most of it, because of the complicated explanations? Stop bein' such a jackass just because he's asking questions, it's what keeps the car audio industry alive, and it keeps forums alive.

3. I'll agree, but how do you know?

4. I do, but I'm sure they either worked hard for it, or the got it given to them, there's no problem with flashing around saying I want to spend $$$$ when they have it. If I started out with that much money, I probably would have bought a bunch of CRAP, at least he's asking for help, so he doesn't make that mistake.

OP, yes the Phoenix Gold speakers come with tweeters, they come with everything seen in that picture, plus mounting hardware.

 

[905_905 10+ year member]

Im planning on getting an 03-04 Honda Civic, and not planning to sound proof any of the car..would it be stupid to get two 12 type-rs? My friend suggested that all youre gonna hear is loose panels..so now im re-thinking the woofers:emb: