6x9 midbass

[SlugButter]

Power Bass USA OE-690D 6x9

OE-690D 6X9" DVC 2Ω / 8Ω OEM UPGRADE REPLACEMENT WOOFER Completely redesigned and re-engineered for today’s modern vehicles, our new OE Series was designed to upgrade factory systems to deliver the musical performance you demand. The OE Series OE-690D was developed to replace old and worn out...

powerbassusa.com

Anyone have any experience with these? I need a 6x 9 midbass and they’re surprisingly hard to find, at least without buying a whole component set and just not using the crossover and tweeters.I also found some Rockville 6x9 woofers, but I’m not really digging those too much for midbass/midrange duty mounted in my door. The Rockville looks like it would be better as a bass woofer in a pickup or rear deck of a car, not so much as a good sounding midbass speaker. This is just for a simple 2 way front stage.

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[SlugButter]

I should add that I do have a 4 channel capable of 140 rms @ 2 ohm x 4. If anyone has some input on another 2 ohm 6x9 that will handle 140 rms I’m all ears. I’m also good with a decent 4 ohm 6x9 that will handle around 70-100 rms at 4 ohms.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

CDT has quite a few 2 ohm 6x9 mid bass. I have heard the quality of those powerbass is pretty bad. I have a toyota with a dedicated 6x9 midbass/subwoofer and I will be converting to an round midbass. Much easier to find.

I would probably run these for a 2 way.

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Dayton Audio RS180P-4 7" Reference Paper Woofer 4 OhmThe performance of the original groundbreaking Reference Series from Dayton Audio, now available with a paper cone! The Reference Series Paper drivers use a proprietary paper cone formulation combining natural paper pulp and synthetic Kevlar®...

www.parts-express.com

 

[SlugButter]

These Jeep Patriot door panels are made in a way that makes them very difficult to do any adapting or upgrading. There isn’t much clearance without the window rolling down on the magnet either. I will maybe do some fiberglass, but that’s down the road.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Hmmmm. These might be your best bet but they are pretty pricey.

CL-69S.2 Slim - CDT Audio 6" x 9" 2 Ohm 180W RMS Carbon Fiber Subwoofer

CDT AUDIO CL-69S.2 SLIM 6" X 9" 180W RMS 2 ohm CARBON FIBER CAR SUBWOOFERS SPEAKERS NEW CL69S Rear Deck Infinite Baffle

www.woofersetc.com

 

[SlugButter]

Yeah. I’m getting the CDT. I can’t find anything better honestly. A google search for 6x9 midbass yields next to nothing.

 

[SlugButter]

I can do a spacer ring and do the deeper mounting 6x9. I’ll probably do that.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Sweet. Let me know how you like them. I'm curious myself.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I would tend to agree to avoid powerbass. I've installed a lot of powerbass stuff, unfortunately, lol.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Dedicated midbasses are the way to go, IMO. Bass is so much louder than every other part of the system, usually, that blending the bass with the mids isn't going to happen with midbass from the mids, unless you have tons of them, IMO. I really like doing midbass in the rear doors and have them play up to, idk, the low 1000's hz range (or whatever you like). You get voices, but you can set it up to be like filler voices, so it doesn't match the loudness or full range of the front, and plays a ton of midbass. My box builder did this in a IS300 with 8" midbasses in the rear doors, 2 10's in the trunk, and components up front. It sounded sooooo good.

 

[SlugButter]

Dedicated midbasses are the way to go, IMO. Bass is so much louder than every other part of the system, usually, that blending the bass with the mids isn't going to happen with midbass from the mids, unless you have tons of them, IMO. I really like doing midbass in the rear doors and have them play up to, idk, the low 1000's hz range (or whatever you like). You get voices, but you can set it up to be like filler voices, so it doesn't match the loudness or full range of the front, and plays a ton of midbass. My box builder did this in a IS300 with 8" midbasses in the rear doors, 2 10's in the trunk, and components up front. It sounded sooooo good.

I’ve deadened the doors pretty well so I’m hoping just getting decent 6x9s will keep up, for at least a little while. I will be running them on a bandpass frequency approx. between 80 and 4000 hz to start with. That may change. Once the warranty runs out on my Jeep I will probably do some fiberglass work and adapt some 8s and do a 3 way front stage. I’m running one of the 10 inch Audio Legion armadas at the moment, but the plan is to run 4 Dayton Audio ultimax 8s in a low height sealed enclosure to create a usable false floor behind the rear seats.

 

[YourNameHere 10+ year member]

I been searching for years for a decent set of dedicated 6x9 midbass.....best bet is to buy a component set and sell off the tweets,im pretty satisfied with my morel 6x9 midbass drivers....a 2 ohm beastly 6x9 is what i dream of

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Didn't the 90's have some crazy 6x9 subwoofers? What ever happened to those?

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

People realized round is better.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

People realized round is better.

Hahaha. Could always do plates and put a round woofer in there. There’s some 6.5’s that hit bass pretty well now, especially midbass.

I always had a Ford, so I always had the worst modern-ish oval size. I’d always plate and do a round woofer. Infinity is one of the ones I would run, maybe Hertz. They make some decent stuff.

You could possibly somewhat port a plated 6.5 in a 6x9 hole, possible, that might be something worth looking into.