5400 vs 5200 motor

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

Ok so having one pr on front and one on the back isn't an option?.. leaving my best option the PSI 15" pr on the front. hmm

What size sub will you be running? From what I've seen, you need more PR cone area than sub cone area.

 

[Bwap]

What size sub will you be running? From what I've seen, you need more PR cone area than sub cone area.

15" tc 5200

Why do you need more cone area, and what happens if you don't?

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

[quote name='Bwap']15" tc 5200

Why do you need more cone area, and what happens if you don't?[/QUOTE]

I can't give a technical answer off the top of my head. I looked in to doing PRs a while back and ended up deciding against it, and I haven't done much reading about them since then.
@gckless ; can probably shed some light

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Im not debating buy it haha, that's already in motion.. just looking for some input on what to do as far as reconing options and running passives..
A lot of good info is in this thread, im sure other people have similar questions that may have been answered.

You need to have at least 1.5X the area of PR as your active driver.... better 2X So 2X 15" passives or one 18" passive. This is because you will hit mechanical limits on PR's fast.

TC passives are going to be high quality and have the ability to easily add or remove mass.

My home cabinets use PR and are quite nice. For all intents and purposes just like vented but without needing to double gross volume for low tuned box and zero port noise.

 

[Bwap]

You need to have at least 1.5X the area of PR as your active driver.... better 2X So 2X 15" passives or one 18" passive. This is because you will hit mechanical limits on PR's fast.
TC passives are going to be high quality and have the ability to easily add or remove mass.

My home cabinets use PR and are quite nice. For all intents and purposes just like vented but without needing to double gross volume for low tuned box and zero port noise.

Hmm looks like I have another predicament.. if I need at least 1.5x PR cone area, than my only option is to have one 15" pr on the front side of the box and one on the back... but tenatious said earlier that is not recommended... why is it that you cant have a pr on the backside of the box?

 

[Bwap]

All these problems make me wanna rebuild it as a 12.. but then id need to rebuild it into a 15 or 18 when I get a new vehicle so that's not the best route.

I hope the tenatious was mistaken when he said you cant have a pr on the back of the box... can anyone chime in on the placement of prs?

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

All these problems make me wanna rebuild it as a 12.. but then id need to rebuild it into a 15 or 18 when I get a new vehicle so that's not the best route.
I hope the tenatious was mistaken when he said you cant have a pr on the back of the box... can anyone chime in on the placement of prs?

If you put a port (or PR, remember that a PR acts as a port) on an opposite plane from the sub you're going to get awful output. Why not do sub up PR(s) back?

 

[Bwap]

If you put a port (or PR, remember that a PR acts as a port) on an opposite plane from the sub you're going to get awful output. Why not do sub up PR(s) back?

Not enough room, its in a Volvo s80.. I also have 8's mounted in the deck, so if I could manage to face them up, they would interfere big time.

The area I have to work with is 39Wx16Hx14.5D. Im limited to this as the entry to my trunk is very small.

Im planning on firing them into the cab and sealing them off from the trunk like my current setup.

 

[shutup]

Didn't read the whole thread, not going to. Just correcting T3mpest. The 5200 DOES have a copper shorting ring.

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

Not enough room, its in a Volvo s80.. I also have 8's mounted in the deck, so if I could manage to face them up, they would interfere big time.The area I have to work with is 39Wx16Hx14.5D. Im limited to this as the entry to my trunk is very small.

Im planning on firing them into the cab and sealing them off from the trunk like my current setup.

That was why I asked.. Others have answered from here, but yes, you do need more passive cone area than speaker, especially with a driver with a strong motor and as much xmax as your passives, I'd be into 2x SD here for sure The passives are tuned to a specific frequency and area WAY more efficient than a sub would ever hope to be at that frequency. So while your sub might only move 18mm over it's subbass range, when the passive begins to move, the sub's force can move it 30mm+ at that frequency. The only way to combat that is to have more cone area in passives so that your sub wont' push them to suspension limits. 1.5x-2x cone area is enough that won't happen.

Sub forward passives back might not ****, but it's not ideal, especially since you want to seal off the trunk and that wouldn't let the passives output in if you do that. Maybe if you removed the 6x9's, but I've done a similar setup and it worked, once I made sure I had as much area for the bass to get into the cabin. So sealing right in front of the sub cone, but then making your rear deck as acoustically transparent as possible and still giving the air room to get around your box to get to the rear deck in the first place. If you do it that way, I'd fire both passives rearward so at least the 2 of them would be aligned. You could also do sub back and port firing in sealed off. However, the sub would benefit more from the baffle, so I would probably seal the sub off and let the trunk have the passives, it's easier for the lowest frequencies to find a way in... If you plan on a very low tuning anyway, your passives and sub won't be playing much at the same time anyways, it would all be at the very lowest of frequencies where your wavelengths may be long enough to get away with that orientation. If you do that you need to make sure the passives output has a way into the cabin.. I know tuned at 25hz I didn't have ny nulls in response running passives side and forward in a trunk, sub back. Probably one of the smoothest sub response I've ever heard in a car. However it wasn't built to be "loud", it was built with a fairly flat response in mind. To replicate that, you'd do sub back and port forward, and don't seal any of it off. Really no matter what you can't "seal" your trunk of totally, since you need to let whichever speaker fires rear have a way back into the cabin.

Other option obviously, you may have to do a standard port here. It's going to eat into your airspace quite a bit, but that sub doesn't really need all that much airspace. If you want do do passives, the best for the money, IMO, come from http://www.creativesound.ca/products.php. APR15 The passives were designed by Dan Wiggins who used to own Adire Audio. The dustcaps are a bit ugly, but not nearly as bad as the pic suggests, as the pic is a 10 so it just looks silly. The huge advantage of these is that the dustcap unscrews and the weight is added to the front. You can change tuning without removing anything from the box, even compared to most passives it's a huge step up. Also, since you don't have the weight on the back, you don't have nearly as many clearance issues inside the box. From a functional perspective, it's a HUGE step up all around and they are pretty beefy. 32mm of xmax is right up there with most other companies. TC sounds will give 1/3 more, for 2x the price so you STILL need 2 of them in you case either way, the extra 14mm isnt' really functional in that regard, once you get enough cone area, you won't bottom out either one. Combine that with the front loading weight, for me it's a no brainer. Once you get them tuned where you want you could always add a more standard dust cap on top.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Im planning on firing them into the cab and sealing them off from the trunk like my current setup.

OK, so that the passives fire into the sealed off trunk? What's the point of that?

I would do sub up and passive on either side of the box firing out the sides. I've had good results with firing a sub out either side and central upfiring port

 

[Bwap]

OK, so that the passives fire into the sealed off trunk? What's the point of that?
I would do sub up and passive on either side of the box firing out the sides. I've had good results with firing a sub out either side and central upfiring port

Well I was hoping to only need one PR, so I could seal the trunk off.

I cant do sub up, as I have 16" of height before I hit the upper deck. I cant run the passives adjacent anyway because the mounting depth of the sub wont allow.

I only have one option as far as passives and that's one on the front and one on back.. but if that will sound bad I need to find another option.

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

Well I was hoping to only need one PR, so I could seal the trunk off.
I cant do sub up, as I have 16" of height before I hit the upper deck. I cant run the passives adjacent anyway because the mounting depth of the sub wont allow.

I only have one option as far as passives and that's one on the front and one on back.. but if that will sound bad I need to find another option.

Run the sub one direction and BOTH passives on the opposite side. Either that or do a regular port.

 

[Bwap]

Ok so I was trying to see how I could manage a port with such limited space.. I came to the conclusion that the only way I can get the correct cross area, and tuning I need to have two slot ports. One on each side of the front side of the box.. Is there any disadvantage to this?

 

[Bwap]

Run the sub one direction and BOTH passives on the opposite side. Either that or do a regular port.

There isn't enough depth to run both prs on the back, that would require 21.5"D and I only have 14.5 to work with.