40th Birthday present

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Bottom line is 10.5 inches

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Sides cut with jigsaw.

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Squaring it up and radius corners.

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Final product Hispls

A 10.5 inch long port with the other 2 dimensions left intact.

 
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Also, I opted to replace the brass ones with these because I couldn't get that last 1/4 inch turn of that satisfying tightness out of the original ones. U know that "uh" feeling.

Well these will do the trick.

 
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Should tune around 36-37. Give or take 3 cycles it's hard to hear the difference 5+ and it becomes pretty obvious. I like winISD, it's simple and I've been happy with predicted vs measured output. Not nearly as powerful as Bass Box Pro, but far less finicky.
Well Hispls...you were right on the money bro!

It sounds so much better than the 25hz tune.

It still plays lowish but the grunt in the 40's is there now!

Can't thank u enough for the help.

Oh, & the improved inserts I installed are the ONLY way to go if your going to use an insert. These puppies give the torque wrench in your elbow that satisfying *ugh* without feeling like they are pulling out. Highly recommend.

Boomingrandpa, your comments were not without merit.

Thank you.

 
Well Hispls...you were right on the money bro!It sounds so much better than the 25hz tune.

It still plays lowish but the grunt in the 40's is there now!

Can't thank u enough for the help.

Oh, & the improved inserts I installed are the ONLY way to go if your going to use an insert. These puppies give the torque wrench in your elbow that satisfying *ugh* without feeling like they are pulling out. Highly recommend.

Boomingrandpa, your comments were not without merit.

Thank you.
Great, glad that worked out to your liking and you did manage to get that off very cleanly inside.

 
Managed to finish off the Big 3 today & good god what a diff.

2g from Alt to Batt.

2g from Batt to chassis lug.

Then another 2g from that lug to a bitchin frame bolt.

2g from alternator mounting bracket to a super spot on the frame, then over to a bolt on intake manifold.

2g from batt to amp ditrabution.

Only dealing with like 1250-1500 watts, but I figure it can't hurt. Just wish I had the means to use larger wire. Made in the next budget if needed.

But the difference in current drop is amazing.

Good call yall.

 
Well, after some time listening & tuning, I find these subs bottom out & bump the back plate EXTREMELY easy. I have to watch what I'm doing pretty carefully or else I hear that loud, distinct, hollow *knock*

Don't know if there's a work around given that we've altered the enclosure so much from factory specs.

After we chopped the port by more than half (from factory 26.75 to 10.5) it raised the volume of the box from 3.8ft3 to4.37ft3.

Could this increase have anything in common with the effect I'm experiencing?

 
Well, after some time listening & tuning, I find these subs bottom out & bump the back plate EXTREMELY easy. I have to watch what I'm doing pretty carefully or else I hear that loud, distinct, hollow *knock* Don't know if there's a work around given that we've altered the enclosure so much from factory specs.

After we chopped the port by more than half (from factory 26.75 to 10.5) it raised the volume of the box from 3.8ft3 to4.37ft3.

Could this increase have anything in common with the effect I'm experiencing?
Yes. Port will lose control of the sub as you go below tuning and it will move wildly (and deliver little to no output) and of course larger box means it will take less power to make it move the same. You should adjust subsonic (HP) filter accordingly.

Consider also JL recommends 250-350W as "optimum" for W3 and will void warranty at 500W.... pretty much saying at 500W you had better be careful and know what you're doing. 12W3v3-2 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W3v3 - JL Audio

You will be pushing their limits with 1000W on tap.

 
Well, after some time listening & tuning, I find these subs bottom out & bump the back plate EXTREMELY easy. I have to watch what I'm doing pretty carefully or else I hear that loud, distinct, hollow *knock* Don't know if there's a work around given that we've altered the enclosure so much from factory specs.

After we chopped the port by more than half (from factory 26.75 to 10.5) it raised the volume of the box from 3.8ft3 to4.37ft3.

Could this increase have anything in common with the effect I'm experiencing?
yeah set ss filter to 40hz see if it still does it if not turn it down slowly but u may have to add wood inside to make airspace smaller guy here was putting board in box and testing and doing another one and testing cause his was bottoming out..

 
yeah set ss filter to 40hz see if it still does it if not turn it down slowly but u may have to add wood inside to make airspace smaller guy here was putting board in box and testing and doing another one and testing cause his was bottoming out..
Sub sonic filter (if accurate) is 3db down point (half power). Setting sub sonic nearly a full octave below tuning may be adequate.

Also, did you model those subs in his airspace? Of course not, but I did and they suffer greatly, really they want an enormous box tuned much lower to play flat and wide, he is compromising with tuning higher because "optimum" airspace for those is impractical for a car.

I've been laying off, but seriously, don't spout off about things you don't know. I don't chime in about box size unless I've worked with the subs in question or at the very least modeled them.

 
Guess I should have said that this bottoming out issue isn't isolated to under the tuning point (which is high 30's if I'm not mistaken)Also, most of what i listen to is 38 & up.

it will hit the back plate all through the 40's & without much output. Quite strange to be honest.

 
Hispls, due to that phenomenon, having to compromise with the tuning due to sub characteristics, would I see an increase in output if I where to design another box sealed?
sealed is generally a flatter response with less output while ported has increased output around tuning and a more peaky response

you very well may prefer sealed with the type of music you listen to. im not an expert on the thiele parameters of loudspeakers so the sub you have may prefer ported over sealed.

 
Sub sonic filter (if accurate) is 3db down point (half power). Setting sub sonic nearly a full octave below tuning may be adequate.
Also, did you model those subs in his airspace? Of course not, but I did and they suffer greatly, really they want an enormous box tuned much lower to play flat and wide, he is compromising with tuning higher because "optimum" airspace for those is impractical for a car.

I've been laying off, but seriously, don't spout off about things you don't know. I don't chime in about box size unless I've worked with the subs in question or at the very least modeled them.
yeah but in this case box is made now, so unless he makes another one saying bigger box is better don't help today.. he just said doesn't seem like low freq problem so only other thing that will cause bottoming is to much power or airspace right? like he said in beginning he'd been better off to ask before making box.. also he plays music with higher freqs so tuning to 32hz or so wouldn't be great for him either., i understand he basically has wrong subs for what he's saying he wants.. i used to use wins but that was a loooong time ago..

 
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