40-80hz Subwoofer recommendation.

[HoneyBadgerRy]

(Yes I talked to you guys before, but life got in the way and I never got the sub, so I'm back asking for advice again.)

What sub would you reccomend? I'm planning on running it in a 1/4 wave transmission line box that I will likely make myself. I need help selecting the right sub, and designing the right box. Then I miss well ask you guys for help selecting the right amp, but first thing first, we need a sub.

I'd imagine I would tune the box for ~60hz because I listen to metal and punk rock, and I don't like the low rumble.

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

@Roland knows the perfect setup for this.

 

[Roland 10+ year member]

You should consider the Pioneer TS-W1200 PRO. Not sure T line tuning, but for standard ported box id tune it between 32 and 40hz if your goal is to play between 40-80hz.

Mine are tuned @32hz in a 2.3 cubic box, and they are fantastic SQ Loud from 30hz up to 200hz. Extremely good value at $105

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

No need for a t line with that sub. Sealed or ported will work.

 

[HoneyBadgerRy]

No need for a t line with that sub. Sealed or ported will work.

In my original thread I believe you were the one who compared our taste in music. I also believe you reccomended I find a sub that paired well with a t-line box. As a semi-newb I have no idea what would be better, and the low price of that sub sounds appealing (along with the box being easier and cheaper to make), however spending some more money for a better sub is completely OK if it will sound better.

(I did some reading about the t-line box and I was kinda swayed.)

So should I go order that pioneer, or do you think I should spend a little more cash. I think in the OP I was reccomended a Dayton, but I couldn't find it, and it was ~4 months ago.

 

[HoneyBadgerRy]

You should consider the Pioneer TS-W1200 PRO. Not sure T line tuning, but for standard ported box id tune it between 32 and 40hz if your goal is to play between 40-80hz.
Mine are tuned @32hz in a 2.3 cubic box, and they are fantastic SQ Loud from 30hz up to 200hz. Extremely good value at $105

I'm don't know much about this, but to me that seems like a budget sub. Do you have any higher end reccomendations? $150-200 is fine. Or am I wrong and this is just a very effiecnt and price friendly woofer?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I'm don't know much about this, but to me that seems like a budget sub. Do you have any higher end reccomendations? $150-200 is fine. Or am I wrong and this is just a very effiecnt and price friendly woofer?

its a completely differently made sub that likes the midbass region, some guys on DIYMA forums (SQ crowd) the sound quality forum likes it because apparently its one of the few subs on the market that actually plays midbass notes easily and was built for that range. Its made just like those pro audio subwoofers that concerts use that mainly focus on 40hz and above.

The T line suggestion is for the regular competition lines of subs that this forum normally recommends that usually cant hit the upper notes well. tuning to 60 hz is a disaster waiting to happen as well.

This is why you need a different kind of box for each type of subwoofer. Dont think that every sub will work well in a T - line. There's electro mechanical parameters you need to consider. Without a proper understanding of a subwoofer's TS parameters, you shouldnt be guessing what box you might need and just picking a random sub.

I'd say two of those pioneer pro 12s in a sealed or 38 hz tuned ported box with medium port area. would work well for you. IF you want, you can do a triple 12 sealed if you have the clearance.

 

[HoneyBadgerRy]

[quote name='Jeffdachef']its a completely differently made sub that likes the midbass region, some guys on DIYMA the sound quality forum likes it. Its made just like those pro audio subwoofers that concerts use that mainly focus on 40hz and above.

The T line suggestion is for the regular competition lines of subs that this forum normally recommends that usually cant hit the upper notes well. tuning to 60 hz is a disaster waiting to happen as well.

This is why you need a different kind of box for each type of subwoofer. Dont think that every sub will work well in a T - line. There's electro mechanical parameters you need to consider. Without a proper understanding of a subwoofer's TS parameters, you shouldnt be guessing what box you might need and just picking a random sub.

I'd say two of those pioneer pro 12s in a sealed or 38 hz tuned ported box with medium port area. would work well for you. IF you want, you can do a triple 12 sealed if you have the clearance.[/QUOTE]

OK, that's makes sense. I can buy the $100 pioneer and make a properly sized sealed box. (I'm sure with some research I can figure out how to tune the box to 40hz.)

I am still interested in @Roland or anybody really opinion on if another $50-100 could get me a better sound.

 

[Roland 10+ year member]

I'm don't know much about this, but to me that seems like a budget sub. Do you have any higher end reccomendations? $150-200 is fine. Or am I wrong and this is just a very effiecnt and price friendly woofer?

Here's the big secret. Yeah that sub's cheap as dirt and a little cheesy looking, and yeah it will flat out boogey on 300 watts, but it's also the best SQ sub i've owned (above 40hz for sure, i had SI BM IV that sound better below 40hz but not a very loud sub ) . Fast, articulate, loud and accurate. Think of it as a great midbass that can get down to the high 20's in (in the right box), a lot like the classic JBL 2118 which sold for about $500, but the TS-w1200pro play lower. Know that It will need some EQ to sound it's very best.

The other sub that i considered replacing mine with, is the Carbon Illusion 12XL but it's about 7 times more money.

Just do this buy it build a box 2.5 cubes tune it to 32hz see what you think.

PS, i haven't use my subsonic filter on mine amp with these for over a year with zero issues, but you're suppose too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Here's the big secret. Yeah that sub's cheap as dirt and a little cheesy looking, and yeah it will flat out boogey on 300 watts, but it's also the best sub i've owned (SQ wise). Fast, articulate, loud and accurate. Think of it as a great midbass that can get down to the high 20's in (in the right box), a lot like the classic JBL 2118 which sold for about $500, but the TS-w1200pro play lower. Know that It will need some EQ to sound it's very best.
The other sub that i considered replacing mine with, is the Carbon Illusion 12XL but it's about 8 times more money.

Just do this buy it build a box 2.5 cubes tune it to 32hz see what you think.

PS, i haven't use my subsonic filter on mine amp with these for over a year with zero issues, but you're suppose too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

So how does this sound to you?

I buy a Precision Power PPI P1000.1 (1000 watts at 1 ohm), one Pioneer TS-W1200 PRO, and a sheet of plywood (~$270). I make a 2.5 cube box (no idea how to tune it) and run the sub at 2 ohms and 450 watts. I should be able to add and subtract wood from the inside of the box to change volume. If its not loud enough I can always buy another and run them at 1 ohm with 900 watts (and have 100 watts to spare).

I'm still not completely sold on how good this sub is, however it did get two pretty good recommendations.

What kind of EQ does it need? I can adjust a lpf from my head unit, I'm sure the amp has a sub sonic filter. I don't think my cde-164 has any other sub specific tuning (just a general 9 band eq). Do I need to buy a crossover or another eq (I was told those small was are garbage, but I do have a 9 band audio pipe in the basement).

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Here's the big secret. Yeah that sub's cheap as dirt and a little cheesy looking, and yeah it will flat out boogey on 300 watts, but it's also the best sub i've owned (SQ wise). Fast, articulate, loud and accurate. Think of it as a great midbass that can get down to the high 20's in (in the right box), a lot like the classic JBL 2118 which sold for about $500, but the TS-w1200pro play lower. Know that It will need some EQ to sound it's very best.
The other sub that i considered replacing mine with, is the Carbon Illusion 12XL but it's about 8 times more money.

Just do this buy it build a box 2.5 cubes tune it to 32hz see what you think.

PS, i haven't use my subsonic filter on mine amp with these for over a year with zero issues, but you're suppose too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

he does not want to hear anything below 40hz. 2.5 tuned to 32 is not gonna be best most likely.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

So how does this sound to you?
I buy a Precision Power PPI P1000.1 (1000 watts at 1 ohm), one Pioneer TS-W1200 PRO, and a sheet of plywood (~$270). I make a 2.5 cube box (no idea how to tune it) and run the sub at 2 ohms and 450 watts. I should be able to add and subtract wood from the inside of the box to change volume. If its not loud enough I can always buy another and run them at 1 ohm with 900 watts (and have 100 watts to spare).

I'm still not completely sold on how good this sub is, however it did get two pretty good recommendations.

What kind of EQ does it need? I can adjust a lpf from my head unit, I'm sure the amp has a sub sonic filter. I don't think my cde-164 has any other sub specific tuning (just a general 9 band eq). Do I need to buy a crossover or another eq (I was told those small was are garbage, but I do have a 9 band audio pipe in the basement).

Try two of those in a 2 cubic feet sealed box on a CAB 1600.1 amp. Sounds like you have no idea how to design a properly tuned ported box yet.

With metal, its always best to have more output than needed if you really want that chest kick.

 

[HoneyBadgerRy]

Try two of those in a 2 cubic feet sealed box on a CAB 1600.1 amp. Sounds like you have no idea how to design a properly tuned ported box yet.

I'm planning on running one 12 originally and then possibly getting another one in the future (because I think its a waste, not because of price). I think one 12 at 450 would be plenty loud.

By two in a 2 cubic feet box do you mean each one in a two cubic feet, or two in one box? If to tune to the frequency I want I need two in a two cubic box, a single sub would need a 1cft box and that's pretty small.

Edit: IDK if you will see this, but I wanted to avoid double quoting. Did you mean this amp or a "bargain 1600 watt amp", because this is the only thing I could find and its not out yet (that I can tell). Also, shouldn't 100 watt wiggle room be fine? Do I really need 700 extra watts? Or is that amp just cheesy, because I don't want any cheap audio equipment, I already learned my lesson. (Alpine mrv-f300)

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I'm planning on running one 12 originally and then possibly getting another one in the future (because I think its a waste, not because of price). I think one 12 at 450 would be plenty loud.
By two in a 2 cubic feet box do you mean each one in a two cubic feet, or two in one box? If to tune to the frequency I want I need two in a two cubic box, a single sub would need a 1cft box and that's pretty small.

Edit: IDK if you will see this, but I wanted to avoid double quoting. Did you mean this amp or a "bargain 1600 watt amp", because this is the only thing I could find and its not out yet (that I can tell). Also, shouldn't 100 watt wiggle room be fine? Do I really need 700 extra watts? Or is that amp just cheesy, because I don't want any cheap audio equipment, I already learned my lesson. (Alpine mrv-f300)

1 cubic feet for each 12 because its sealed, 2 cubes total. Suggesting sealed boxes because you currently dont have the knowledge to design a proper ported yet. Two 12s in a sealed should equal a single 12 ported without much tuning involved.

car audio bargain amp is far from junk, beast puts out for the money is one of the best budget but good performing amps on the market. We say budget because most of the high quality amps we buy cost in the 500s new or higher. this amp should work for two of the 12s

 

[HoneyBadgerRy]

1 cubic feet for each 12 because its sealed, 2 cubes total. Suggesting sealed boxes because you currently dont have the knowledge to design a proper ported yet. Two 12s in a sealed should equal a single 12 ported without much tuning involved.
car audio bargain amp is far from junk, beast puts out for the money is one of the best budget but good performing amps on the market. We say budget because most of the high quality amps we buy cost in the 500s new or higher. this amp should work for two of the 12s

I have a pretty good idea of what I need to do now (and it involves upgrading my electrical, but hopefully not my battery or alt). The one thing I'm still hung up on is the amp you reccomended to me. I under stand CAB is the brand, I under stank they are a good brand and that they are only a budget because of you guys pushing massive numbers. I also understand 1600.1 is the model, however, what I'm hung up on is that that either the amp doesn't come out till June 30th, or I'm looking at something wrong. There are reviews out for the amp, and you reccomended it, so I would assume its something I could buy and receive in a coupepy days, however at the only place to buy one I've found its called a preorder.

As far as comparable amps I found the brutus or the Planet Audio AC3000.1D, but the stats of the PA 3000 seem to good to be true (2100rms for $100). //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif Reading reviews proves me right, the PA amp is a bunch of lies.