4 Channel Amplifer on a DVC Sub?

[m83x 10+ year member]

4 Channel Amplifier on a Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer ?

Is this possible? I mean, can I bridge channels 1 & 2 and plug it in on the first coil and channel 3 & 4 on the second coil?

I wasn't aware of this until I was reading the JL site.

Hmmm..

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[m83x 10+ year member]

Nice Jmac, thanks for the help as always. Glad to see you're still around, as a moderator as well, can still remember when Zane and RangerMan I think was all over the boards. Hahah!

Cheers buddy! Stay cool..

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[RangerMan Premium Member]

Nice Jmac, thanks for the help as always. Glad to see you're still around, as a moderator as well, can still remember when Zane and RangerMan I think was all over the boards. Hahah!
Cheers buddy! Stay cool..

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I'm still here

Zane drops by every once in a while.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Don't get too wrapped up in making sure that the power is exactly equal on the coils either. The power is additive. As long as it is the same signal going to each coil, there won't be a cancellation problem and you won't do any damage to the sub even if there was complete cancellation, you just wouldn't get any sound.

 

[Bumpin' Yota 10+ year member]

Don't get too wrapped up in making sure that the power is exactly equal on the coils either. The power is additive. As long as it is the same signal going to each coil, there won't be a cancellation problem and you won't do any damage to the sub even if there was complete cancellation, you just wouldn't get any sound.

Wrong.

Complete cancellation would prevent any movement of the coil. However it WOULD heat up VERY rapidly. Without movement and enough power, it will cook. The interesting part is that both coils, in this scenario would be opposing each other, so as they heat up and the glue weakens, the coil will likely grenade sooner from the opposing forces...

Also, while partial cancellation may not damage anything over the short term, it WILL reduce your output.

If you are doing this as a daily driver, I suggest that you get the power on each coil as absolutely close as you can get it. Also try to make the signals absolutely

the same going into each coil....

Trust me I know this for a fact. I gained 1.7dB last year at a show by level matching my 4 mtx's when I was running those amps...

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Complete cancellation would prevent any movement of the coil. However it WOULD heat up VERY rapidly. Without movement and enough power' date=' it will cook. The interesting part is that both coils, in this scenario would be opposing each other, so as they heat up and the glue weakens, the coil will likely grenade sooner from the opposing forces...[/quote']Nice try, but you are off base here. There are no opposing forces. The magnetic fields of the two coils will simply cancel each other out. Result is no force at all. The two coils are wrapped together, they don't sit next to each other. Yes they would heat up and the lack of cone movement would prevent cooling air from circulating, but if you were to turn everything on and nothing happens, hopefully you wuld have enough where-with-all to turn the system off and figure out what is wrong rather than keep running it and heating the coil up.

Also, while partial cancellation may not damage anything over the short term, it WILL reduce your output.

As long as the signal going to the coils is the same, there will be NO cancellation so not a problem. A small amount of cancellation will cause a drop in ouput but will not cause any damage short or long term.

If you are doing this as a daily driver, I suggest that you get the power on each coil as absolutely close as you can get it.

That is not nearly as important ans this:

Also try to make the signals absolutelythe same going into each coil....

Trust me I know this for a fact. I gained 1.7dB last year at a show by level matching my 4 mtx's when I was running those amps...

Likely more a factor of running more power overall by matching to the higher wattage amp than actually eliminating cancellation. I'll say it again, if the signal is the same, there will be NO cancellation within the sub if the power going to each coil is a little off.

 

[Bumpin' Yota 10+ year member]

Nice try, but you are off base here. There are no opposing forces. The magnetic fields of the two coils will simply cancel each other out. Result is no force at all. The two coils are wrapped together, they don't sit next to each other. Yes they would heat up and the lack of cone movement would prevent cooling air from circulating, but if you were to turn everything on and nothing happens, hopefully you wuld have enough where-with-all to turn the system off and figure out what is wrong rather than keep running it and heating the coil up.As long as the signal going to the coils is the same, there will be NO cancellation so not a problem. A small amount of cancellation will cause a drop in ouput but will not cause any damage short or long term.That is not nearly as important ans this: Likely more a factor of running more power overall by matching to the higher wattage amp than actually eliminating cancellation. I'll say it again, if the signal is the same, there will be NO cancellation within the sub if the power going to each coil is a little off.

Jesus what a brain fart.... I wasn't thinking from a physics stand point.

You are correct, if both coils of the same sub, are fed the same identicle signal, the coil's force is perfectly additive and there will be no interference.

Granted output isn't what it could be if one coil wasn't getting the same power as the other and that deficient channel is just undergained.

To the thread starter - buy a pair of Y splitters (one for the Front Left and one for the Front Right) and give the same RCA signal to both front and rear RCAs on the amp. For good measure, maintain L and R signal for both front and rear. Gain setting on those channels is going to be a bit harder to get the absolute most output. Xover settings - I'd do with a single active crossover and bypass those on the amp entirely.