3/4 vs 5/8 grade MDF boxes and L ports.

[bhsdriller 10+ year member]

fvck birch....I don't like how it machines compared to mdf, don't care about the weight saving either since I drive a truck

 

[jeepintn 10+ year member]

But wouldn't you agree that it's a superior material as far as durability and longevity? I have had sheets of mdf de laminate on the way back to the shop!

i do think the birch-ply is a superior product, just in ease of use and weight. however, i have never had an issue using MDF, and certainly never had it delaminate because ive never had a piece of mdf thats been laminated LOL. mdf is manufactured using fibers, wax, resin and high pressures and temps. no laminate involved

 

[Jaguar 10+ year member]

I'm building a sealed box with double walled mdf so about 1.5 inch thick. I'll let you know how it turns out, I just wanted the box super ridget.

I would think there would be a certain cut-off point where the box is proofed, that's interesting though. I was looking at some of those ugly probox enclosures yesterday with one of my girls, it's supposedly ''armor coated", but at this point I'm not sure with what. Hard like metal on the outside, but the box is made out of MDF. The ports are tuned too high for my taste (40-45hz). ProBox Custom UTV tops and Vehicle-Specific Subwoofers and Enclosures

 

Could someone answer #8 for me when they get a moment, thank you.

 

 

J

 

[goingdef 10+ year member]

i do think the birch-ply is a superior product, just in ease of use and weight. however, i have never had an issue using MDF, and certainly never had it delaminate because ive never had a piece of mdf thats been laminated LOL. mdf is manufactured using fibers, wax, resin and high pressures and temps. no laminate involved

By de laminated I mean the 3/4 sheet separated into two sheets 3/8 thick! It was a raw sheet of material.

 

[goingdef 10+ year member]

I would think there would be a certain cut-off point where the box is proofed, that's interesting though. I was looking at some of those ugly probox enclosures yesterday with one of my girls, it's supposedly ''armor coated", but at this point I'm not sure with what. Hard like metal on the outside, but the box is made out of MDF. The ports are tuned too high for my taste (40-45hz). ProBox Custom UTV tops and Vehicle-Specific Subwoofers and Enclosures  

Could someone answer #8 for me when they get a moment, thank you.

 

 

J

armor coat spray on bedliner it's all the same and you can do it yourself cheap!

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

3/4" at a minimum in thickness and maybe 1 1/2" on the baffle for most everyday systems is sufficient. The forces involved in SPL competition require more structural integrity....just box flex can cost a tenth or better. The use of circular ports with flared ends do positively influence sq vs the old saw cut pvc variety. One advantage of a flared tube port is the ability to exchange it and have different lengths for different tunings (Daily/Comp) if the box is designed this way. This is one main advantage over a permanent Slot Port. Mostly it comes down to design requirements that can make the final decision. If there is not enough room to install a circular port(s), then the Slot port may be the only option...or vice versa. Personally, I prefer Slot ports.

 

[813thumper 10+ year member]

I didn't know you could build ridget boxes lulz.

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

While I'm at it, may I ask a question about the separation of subwoofers within enclosures. I see some boxes without separation(between subwoofers). Can this be bad, If so, how so?

as someone else said, in large numbers of subs series/parallel wired in groups, I would Isolate the groups, like 8 12's in 2 groups of 4 in 2 separate chambers, but that is a personal preference depending on amp and VC configuration...in the average 2 sub set up, it depends on the amplifier(s). for 2 subs on 2 separate amplifier channels, I will do individual chambers. Just because you have two channels and the possibility of one sub being slightly out of phase with the other. For a monoblock amplifier set up, i combine the airspace.

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

I didn't know you could build ridget boxes lulz.

whats a "ridget"?

 

[goingdef 10+ year member]

whats a "ridget"?

you know ridget like I waz gridin up on dis bich in da club and my d!k gotz allll "ridget" and *****!

 

[goingdef 10+ year member]

whats a "ridget"?

you know ridget like I waz gridin up on dis bich in da club and my d!k gotz allll "ridget" and *****!

 

[Jaguar 10+ year member]

armor coat spray on bedliner it's all the same and you can do it yourself cheap!

That 1+ inch front baffle on that box is kind of s.e.x.y.__Did you make that, do you make boxes? I need one made soon.

One advantage of a flared tube port is the ability to exchange it and have different lengths for different tunings (Daily/Comp) if the box is designed this way. This is one main advantage over a permanent Slot Port. Personally, I prefer Slot ports.

This is an excellent point... I have no idea if the theory on slot ports possibly causing a slight turbulence vs flared ports hold water though. Visually, I can imagine how it could, but then I also think a more curved design inside and out of the box would also be more conducive to the way sound travels as

opposed to rectangular shapes and port walls. Am I wrong?

Re individual chambers vs dual sub setups without individual chambers. I will do individual chambers. Just because you have two channels and the possibility of one sub being slightly out of phase with the other. For a monoblock amplifier set up, i combine the airspace.

The only thing I'd be hesitant about with dual subwoofer enclosures without individual chambers is that if one subwoofer blows the other is likely to blow

after and soon . Even if your fortunate enough to notice one is blown without the other being blown, it's like you said the other could end up out of phase.

 

[goingdef 10+ year member]

yea I made that one and another exactly like it then a third one 1" bigger in all directions for a buddy of mine in his nissan titan, I had to "resize" mine to clear the trunk entrance with all the molding removed first and replaced after the box was in. but with you being in GA it would be cheaper to do it yourself twice then to pay me then pay to ship it, the whole thing took less then 8hrs I did it during the work day while running the shop and came back later that night and finished putting in the sub when it was dry enough to handle. Measure twice cut once! don't free hand cut anything use a guide bar to run against and check each piece for square before cutting past that it's wood glue, clamps and a good speed square to check each piece before it sets.

 

[Flex68 10+ year member]

The only thing I'd be hesitant about with dual subwoofer enclosures without individual chambers is that if one subwoofer blows the other is likely to blow

after and soon . Even if your fortunate enough to notice one is blown without the other being blown, it's like you said the other could end up out of phase.

uhhhmmmm....whut?

 

[Jaguar 10+ year member]

uhhhmmmm....whut?

If one sub blows or just stops playing, there's a good chance the other will suffer mechanical damage due to the sudden strain of being in a box twice the proper size. Another point I think could be an issue with enclosures without individual chambers is that I don't see bass rhythms sent in stereo to the right

and left subwoofers alternatively (rhythms specifically meant to hit the left or right woofer and vice versa in stereo)being as clear/clean in sequence.