Hey i am putting in a 2nd battery in my trunk and wanted to make sure i had it right. I have 2 amps the Rockford Fosgate Prime 1200x1 and the Punch p400X4. I have a 200-amp fuse under hood to a block that has a 120 for the 1200 and 60 fuse for the 400. Do i just add another 200 amp fuse before the second battery and run 2 4-gauge power wires off that 1 with 120 fuse and then another with a 60 to those amps? So ill have a 200 amp by my main battery and another 200 amp 12-18 inches before my second battery is that correct?
What, you think that I’m just making this shiz up?
No, I said I ran breakers (when values allow) under the hood and fuses in the back, and yes, on both (+) and (-) connections. Just because it cost more to do and not everybody bothers, doesn’t mean it’s not a good idea. Some pople don't use rubber grommets either! Grounds can start fires on shorts and overheating just like your power line can. It also protects your electrical system from possible elctical issue/feedback from your audio system and vice versus. Is it optional, yes, it's a matter of choice.
You’re incorrect on every point you have made and this is not a matter of opinion, math and the periodic tables don't lie. A ground that runs all the way back and passes the battery on the way is not different than it being grounded at the chassis, none, nil, nada. It’s not going to a battery, it, essentially passes the terminal and grounds along WITH the battery as it flows/ passes to the engine/chassis, get a grip, this is basic electric 101! Doing the big three in a big way, also increases the effectivness of all the electrical under the hood, reduces resistance making it fully capable of handeling the additnal flow from the 2/0 cable from the rear. Your understanding of car body (moer specfically, unibody) assembly also leaves something to be desired. Nothing about the method I described (and use) or any of the information provided is incorrect or any less effective than any other method when done correctly. It IS more expensive, it IS more work, it’s just the way I prefer to do it and believe it or not, it’s a much more cohesive, failsafe installation method!!
The reason that I use 1/0 to and 2/0 back is to ensure that the resistance is, in fact, the same or lower as it would be on a short local ground, I’ve done the measurements, IT WORKS! YouTube it, plenty of information out there, you don’t have to take my word for it even if I do know what the hell I’m talking about! just because there is a length of wire running from front to back does not mean that it changes things as if you had everything mounted under the hood connected directly to the electical system and ground! It’s just an extension of where everything connects to the electrical system under the hood!!!
A few hundred extra dollars in parts is cheaper than a car up in smoke, both methods work, neither is the the one "Right" way and in the end, it's my friggin car!!!
No, I said I ran breakers (when values allow) under the hood and fuses in the back, and yes, on both (+) and (-) connections. Just because it cost more to do and not everybody bothers, doesn’t mean it’s not a good idea. Some pople don't use rubber grommets either! Grounds can start fires on shorts and overheating just like your power line can. It also protects your electrical system from possible elctical issue/feedback from your audio system and vice versus. Is it optional, yes, it's a matter of choice.
You’re incorrect on every point you have made and this is not a matter of opinion, math and the periodic tables don't lie. A ground that runs all the way back and passes the battery on the way is not different than it being grounded at the chassis, none, nil, nada. It’s not going to a battery, it, essentially passes the terminal and grounds along WITH the battery as it flows/ passes to the engine/chassis, get a grip, this is basic electric 101! Doing the big three in a big way, also increases the effectivness of all the electrical under the hood, reduces resistance making it fully capable of handeling the additnal flow from the 2/0 cable from the rear. Your understanding of car body (moer specfically, unibody) assembly also leaves something to be desired. Nothing about the method I described (and use) or any of the information provided is incorrect or any less effective than any other method when done correctly. It IS more expensive, it IS more work, it’s just the way I prefer to do it and believe it or not, it’s a much more cohesive, failsafe installation method!!
The reason that I use 1/0 to and 2/0 back is to ensure that the resistance is, in fact, the same or lower as it would be on a short local ground, I’ve done the measurements, IT WORKS! YouTube it, plenty of information out there, you don’t have to take my word for it even if I do know what the hell I’m talking about! just because there is a length of wire running from front to back does not mean that it changes things as if you had everything mounted under the hood connected directly to the electical system and ground! It’s just an extension of where everything connects to the electrical system under the hood!!!
A few hundred extra dollars in parts is cheaper than a car up in smoke, both methods work, neither is the the one "Right" way and in the end, it's my friggin car!!!
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The ground wire which is bolted from the battery to the engine/frame/body of the car. The ground cable I run goes back the same block where it and all the rest of the elctrical is grounded to on the battery distribution block. It's really just a matter of using the existing connections. I could have run it all the way to the front and connected to straight to the frame, where the battery is grounded already, it would not change a thing.
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Maybe it’s different from car to car but I chassis grounded. I can use my dmm to chech ohm resistance or battery charge state from the positive to any point I can reach w the leads. Say I’m checking ohm resistance. Battery negative to opposite side strut? 0.05
Same side brake rotor? 0.05
From the rear, negative battery terminal to rear rotor? 0.05
Battery positive to strut tower? = battery voltage. My vehicle isn’t glued together.
You’re welcome to do what you like but there’s definitely more resistance through that wire than the chassis, depending on if your vehicle is glued together or not.
Same side brake rotor? 0.05
From the rear, negative battery terminal to rear rotor? 0.05
Battery positive to strut tower? = battery voltage. My vehicle isn’t glued together.
You’re welcome to do what you like but there’s definitely more resistance through that wire than the chassis, depending on if your vehicle is glued together or not.
Then why do it? If you think it does absolutely nothing, and it "passes the terminal", then why do it that way? If it changes nothing, how is it "much more cohesive and failsafe"?
"Doing the big 3 in a big way"? WTF does that mean? Are you really that self-centered you think you found some new special way to do the big 3, and all the rest of us either couldn't figure out what you think, or are too lazy to do what you think is the right way?
You talked a little about unibody, but didn't bother to write a complete thought. You want to tell me I'm wrong, but won't say why. (I guess it means you can just spout nonsense without having to back anything up). All I did was use your words.
- "Youtube it". That's what I call a "******* get out of jail free card". Go ahead and post those videos and see what this site says. I promise they won't side with either person, they will go with what is right.
People don't put fuses/breakers on your ground, NOT BECAUSE THEY ARE LAZY, like you try to suggest, but because it's wrong. Give ONE GOOD REASON why you would want your circuit's ground to no longer be there?
How do "fuses/breakers protect from feedback"? (I think you don't understand how a circuit works or what a signal is).
There DEFINITELY IS a right way to do it, and it's not what you said.
Battery negative is not ground. Chassis is ground. If battery negative was ground, you could remove the cables that go from battery negative to chassis, and your vehicle would start. It won't.
No it's not a matter of using "existing connections", your battery grounds are existing connections, RIGHT?
Thanks for clarifying. You grounded eventually to the motor.
You are not wrong and I don't disagree. I never planned to write a book about it, but nothing I said is incorrect and I’m not going to argue the points to those (not you) that fail to see the merits. This is the third setup like this that I have done, it works just fine. What I didn't mention is that I’m completing a wooden (MDF) infrastructure build on the rear of the car over the entire rear area behind the seats, including the area where the original spare tire and Bose sub was. I'm doing risers and shelves for the multiple amps and caps and carpeting on everything to look nice and match the interior. The cables are run from the engine compartment, under the car and back up through the sheet metal (using heavy duty nylon grommets) and then through the false bottom I made. The build includes a sub encolsure across the width of the rear compartment, fitted behind the fastback angles seats which will house two Focal 13" 33v2 pollyglass subs in a 3.44 cubic foot, sealed and stuffed enclosure with 3 pounds of AcustiStuf. This "fabricated" area pretty much contains everything in the system so a sub, amps,cables, caps, 2nd battery, all the equipment. sort of an all in one rack! Going to get pictures as some people think I bothered to invent this (again, not you) as it is way too hot (hovering around 100) right now, will continue the build in the fall). Doing this covers up a lot of the available "short" grounding points (and I didn’t feel like cutting a couple of big access points to seat bolt grounds or drilling for new ones given that the car is a unibody configuration) Having closed off access to a lot of metal that I might use, or just prefer not to use, was simply a choice which is more to the point, it is a choice. I was able to source the 2/0, high strand OFC cable , 25’ for $50 (closed outlet store, all high strand marine grade OFC wire) who only had the one 25' run or I would have purchased more at that price and re-sold! So, it wasn’t that much of stretch when already paying to have the power run from front to back. Anyhow, it’s just an option that works fine. Is this type of install for everyone? Certainly not. It is just as affective, yes (when done right and using extra large ground return cable). To suggest it isn’t (again, not you) is also a fallacy and speaks to peoples ignorance or lack of experience in this type of install. Not only have I consulted other Electrical Engineers, including both my brothers, but just for shitz and giggles, 2 (very reputable) car stereo installation shops (one of which helped me on another of my previous cars, and my sons car, doing the exact same thing). On simpler, lower powered setups, or even for this kind of power, I can see the merits of doing ones grounds the traditional, practical way, espcially when the car structure is all metal body to frame construciton. It’s just an option that I like. Much easier to insert cables into blocks and use an allen wrench to secure them as opposed to drilling, grinding and grounding 6 grounds of different gauge values to several points on a unibody chassis that may not facilitate the grounding well enough to begin with. This way you never have to worry about ground loops, you have 1 single ground point for everything, which electrically speaking, is Ideal in the audio world.
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Your reply is a more emotional and not founded in facts. I’ll reply with clarifications in chronological order, as best I can.
You ask, “Then why do it?”
What I didn't mention is that I’m completing a complete wooden (MDF) infrastructure build on the rear of the car over the entire rear area behind the seats, including the area where the original spare tire and Bose sub was. I’m doing risers and shelves and compartmentalizing for the multiple amps, 2nd battery and caps and then carpeting everything to look nice and match the interior. The cables are run from the engine compartment, under the outside of the cars underbelly and back up through the sheet metal (using heavy duty nylon grommets) and then through the false bottom I made. The build includes a sub enclosure across the width of the rear compartment, fitted behind the fastback angled seats which house two Focal 33v2 polyglass subs in a 3.44 cubic foot, sealed and stuffed enclosure.. This “built” section pretty much contains everything in the system. Doing this covers up a lot of the available "short" grounding points and I didn’t feel like cutting a couple of big access points, to the seat bolt grounding points, or drilling for new ones (consolidating, grinding surfaces or layering terminal rings) given that the car is a unibody configuration. Having closed off access to a lot of metal that I might use, or just prefer not to use, my choice. I was able to source the 2/0, high strand OFC cable , 25’ for $50.00. It wasn’t that much of stretch when already planning to pay a shop to run, initially, only the power run from front to back to add the 2nd, larger gauge cable installation to the initial request; two birds with on stone. Is this type of installation effort for everyone? Certainly not. It is just as affective, yes (when done right and using extra large ground return cable) and to suggest it isn’t is also a fallacy. Not only have I consulted other Electrical Engineers, including both my brothers, but just for shitz and giggles, 2 (very reputable) car stereo installation shops (one of which helped me on another of my previous cars, and my sons car, doing the exact same thing). On simpler setups, I can (and do) see the merits of doing ones grounds the traditional, practical way. It’s much easier to insert cables into blocks and use an allen wrench to secure them as opposed to drilling, grinding and grounding 6 grounds of different gauge values to several points on a unibody chassis that may not facilitate the grounding well enough to begin with. This way you never have to worry about ground loops, you have one single ground point for everything, which electrically speaking, is Ideal in the audio world.
You recap and ask for clarrifcation “"Doing the big 3 in a big way"? WTF does that mean?
It is simple really; I used LARGE (bigly) gauge wire to augment the existing wires in a normal big 3 upgrade. Excuse me for using adjectives to describe the magnitude of the 2/0awg wire used.
You state “You talked a little about unibody, but didn't bother to write a complete thought”
This is really a no brainer and if you Google it, will find more info on it, Google something more specific to this conversation, and you see that what I have stated is factually correct. (not without exceptions, but correct) Here is a link too many replies that again, don’t necessarily like this option, but in the same breath, mentions that the only reason they don’t see any benefit is that they don’t see it as better, not that it doesn’t work – opinion, not fact.
https://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/ground-for-dual-battery.135315/
You state “ You want to tell me I'm wrong, but won't say why”
Well maybe I could have worded it differently. Like - your method of connecting everything, from what I glean from your posts, is fine, will work, and is the most common way to do it. Your assertions that what I am stating here is wrong, that’s incorrect, and by extension, you are incorrect on this point, so only half wrong, my bad.
You state, I said: “- "Youtube it". That's what I call a "******* get out of jail free card. Go ahead and post those videos and see what this site says. I promise they won't side with either person, they will go with what is right. "
This isn’t a contest. I learn from some and provide valid, helpful information to others (as assume you do). My statements and experiences are based on 42+ years in the electrical, car audio/home theater, computer board surface manufacturing and telecommunications fields. I know, unequivocally, that what I’ve said in this post is factually correct. When I initially started doing this type of install, I found nay-sayers such as you and the like to be fairly prevalent so I did my homework to absolute certainty when possible or I won’t post about it, for the most part.. I have engaged other EE’s, namely by two older brothers who reinforced the accuracy of my knowledge on this subject. I’ve provided enough info on this response (including several supporting links) and I do not feel the need to supplement the homework you clearly need to do with anything additional - on my time
You took offense to my ‘People don't put fuses/breakers on their grounds” and remarked: “NOT BECAUSE THEY ARE LAZY, like you try to suggest, but because it's wrong.”
How you interpret what I say is due to the way I say it, but to a larger degree, based on your perception and of your own volition. I never said or implied that people who don’t do this are lazy, again, it’s an option that I choose to incorporate in this type of build, nothing less, nothing more.
Additionally, you asked: Give ONE GOOD REASON why you would want your circuit's ground to no longer be there?
WTF, I NEVER said anything of the sort – the whole da*m discussion is about an “alternate” grounding method, not eliminating it! Again, your assertion or misinterpretation of where that ground point terminated led to that conclusion, and not what I stated.
You ask “How do "fuses/breakers protect from feedback?"
Bad choice of words as I was not talking about musical (signal) feedback but was referring to current feedback loosed to a wire from a short to chassis or an electrical failure or disruption that can occur then travels thru the power or ground cables to affect the car or the audio system, sorry, should have been more detailed. It’s not likely to happen if you use proper grommets and insulated wires, but unexpected things happen and a wire on fire is a car on fire when you’re talking about this type of large gauge installs. Better you pop a breaker or fuse and prevent the situation where you come out to your car and find a large ashtray instead. Breakers or fuses at both ends take the likelihood that this occurs in either direction, away.
Last but certainly not least, you said, “No it's not a matter of using "existing connections", your battery grounds are existing connections, RIGHT?”
In this and any situation, the battery terminals facilitate ground “pass through” to the chassis or the engine. The battery is NOT the termination point. Here is an article that explains that.
https://enginediary.com/ground-battery-to-engine-or-frame/
Before you jump all over the validity of my install method(s), go find, for your own peace of mind, information that helps you understand that this is indeed true, not more information that simply reinforces what you already know about the most common way to install and upgrade a cars electrical system for car audio applications. Again, as I have already stated, it’s not for everyone but for me, in this type of installation, I prefer it.
Remember, uninformed or marginally based “opinions” are like azzholes, everyone’s got one.
You ask, “Then why do it?”
What I didn't mention is that I’m completing a complete wooden (MDF) infrastructure build on the rear of the car over the entire rear area behind the seats, including the area where the original spare tire and Bose sub was. I’m doing risers and shelves and compartmentalizing for the multiple amps, 2nd battery and caps and then carpeting everything to look nice and match the interior. The cables are run from the engine compartment, under the outside of the cars underbelly and back up through the sheet metal (using heavy duty nylon grommets) and then through the false bottom I made. The build includes a sub enclosure across the width of the rear compartment, fitted behind the fastback angled seats which house two Focal 33v2 polyglass subs in a 3.44 cubic foot, sealed and stuffed enclosure.. This “built” section pretty much contains everything in the system. Doing this covers up a lot of the available "short" grounding points and I didn’t feel like cutting a couple of big access points, to the seat bolt grounding points, or drilling for new ones (consolidating, grinding surfaces or layering terminal rings) given that the car is a unibody configuration. Having closed off access to a lot of metal that I might use, or just prefer not to use, my choice. I was able to source the 2/0, high strand OFC cable , 25’ for $50.00. It wasn’t that much of stretch when already planning to pay a shop to run, initially, only the power run from front to back to add the 2nd, larger gauge cable installation to the initial request; two birds with on stone. Is this type of installation effort for everyone? Certainly not. It is just as affective, yes (when done right and using extra large ground return cable) and to suggest it isn’t is also a fallacy. Not only have I consulted other Electrical Engineers, including both my brothers, but just for shitz and giggles, 2 (very reputable) car stereo installation shops (one of which helped me on another of my previous cars, and my sons car, doing the exact same thing). On simpler setups, I can (and do) see the merits of doing ones grounds the traditional, practical way. It’s much easier to insert cables into blocks and use an allen wrench to secure them as opposed to drilling, grinding and grounding 6 grounds of different gauge values to several points on a unibody chassis that may not facilitate the grounding well enough to begin with. This way you never have to worry about ground loops, you have one single ground point for everything, which electrically speaking, is Ideal in the audio world.
You recap and ask for clarrifcation “"Doing the big 3 in a big way"? WTF does that mean?
It is simple really; I used LARGE (bigly) gauge wire to augment the existing wires in a normal big 3 upgrade. Excuse me for using adjectives to describe the magnitude of the 2/0awg wire used.
You state “You talked a little about unibody, but didn't bother to write a complete thought”
This is really a no brainer and if you Google it, will find more info on it, Google something more specific to this conversation, and you see that what I have stated is factually correct. (not without exceptions, but correct) Here is a link too many replies that again, don’t necessarily like this option, but in the same breath, mentions that the only reason they don’t see any benefit is that they don’t see it as better, not that it doesn’t work – opinion, not fact.
https://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/ground-for-dual-battery.135315/
You state “ You want to tell me I'm wrong, but won't say why”
Well maybe I could have worded it differently. Like - your method of connecting everything, from what I glean from your posts, is fine, will work, and is the most common way to do it. Your assertions that what I am stating here is wrong, that’s incorrect, and by extension, you are incorrect on this point, so only half wrong, my bad.
You state, I said: “- "Youtube it". That's what I call a "******* get out of jail free card. Go ahead and post those videos and see what this site says. I promise they won't side with either person, they will go with what is right. "
This isn’t a contest. I learn from some and provide valid, helpful information to others (as assume you do). My statements and experiences are based on 42+ years in the electrical, car audio/home theater, computer board surface manufacturing and telecommunications fields. I know, unequivocally, that what I’ve said in this post is factually correct. When I initially started doing this type of install, I found nay-sayers such as you and the like to be fairly prevalent so I did my homework to absolute certainty when possible or I won’t post about it, for the most part.. I have engaged other EE’s, namely by two older brothers who reinforced the accuracy of my knowledge on this subject. I’ve provided enough info on this response (including several supporting links) and I do not feel the need to supplement the homework you clearly need to do with anything additional - on my time
You took offense to my ‘People don't put fuses/breakers on their grounds” and remarked: “NOT BECAUSE THEY ARE LAZY, like you try to suggest, but because it's wrong.”
How you interpret what I say is due to the way I say it, but to a larger degree, based on your perception and of your own volition. I never said or implied that people who don’t do this are lazy, again, it’s an option that I choose to incorporate in this type of build, nothing less, nothing more.
Additionally, you asked: Give ONE GOOD REASON why you would want your circuit's ground to no longer be there?
WTF, I NEVER said anything of the sort – the whole da*m discussion is about an “alternate” grounding method, not eliminating it! Again, your assertion or misinterpretation of where that ground point terminated led to that conclusion, and not what I stated.
You ask “How do "fuses/breakers protect from feedback?"
Bad choice of words as I was not talking about musical (signal) feedback but was referring to current feedback loosed to a wire from a short to chassis or an electrical failure or disruption that can occur then travels thru the power or ground cables to affect the car or the audio system, sorry, should have been more detailed. It’s not likely to happen if you use proper grommets and insulated wires, but unexpected things happen and a wire on fire is a car on fire when you’re talking about this type of large gauge installs. Better you pop a breaker or fuse and prevent the situation where you come out to your car and find a large ashtray instead. Breakers or fuses at both ends take the likelihood that this occurs in either direction, away.
Last but certainly not least, you said, “No it's not a matter of using "existing connections", your battery grounds are existing connections, RIGHT?”
In this and any situation, the battery terminals facilitate ground “pass through” to the chassis or the engine. The battery is NOT the termination point. Here is an article that explains that.
https://enginediary.com/ground-battery-to-engine-or-frame/
Before you jump all over the validity of my install method(s), go find, for your own peace of mind, information that helps you understand that this is indeed true, not more information that simply reinforces what you already know about the most common way to install and upgrade a cars electrical system for car audio applications. Again, as I have already stated, it’s not for everyone but for me, in this type of installation, I prefer it.
Remember, uninformed or marginally based “opinions” are like azzholes, everyone’s got one.
I like how you try to say I'm emotional in my response, (not sure how), then you spout off with all that of hooey, thats cute.
The problem you're having is you were wrong in how you did it, and you think just because it works, FOR YOU, FOR NOW, IN YOUR SETUP, doesn't mean it's the right way to do it. It might work for you, but EVERYONE would have a very slim area where it wouldn't work for them. EVERYONE could say the same thing about that method, it will work until it doesn't, and you risk catastrophic failure depending on a couple variables of the equipment.
The ONLY thing in all that hoopla after you told me I that is an actual reply to what I said is this:
Hate to break it to you, but just because they are your older brothers doesn't mean they are experts. If they were experts tell me why, being your brother is irrelevant, and if that's all you got, then it's pointless.
Your link and video are not saying what you are. That's completely different, and if you want to have a discussion, then use your words, and don't just post links expecting someone to read several pages and watch videos to try to figure out what you want to say.
and is it really that hard for you to use paragraphs. They separate subjects for context and clarity, but I don't think your goal is to actually have a well written and understood argument.
With 0% ******** meant: You're running wires under the body from front to back, to hide the wires. You can keep getting mad if you want to, but I guarantee there are better ways to do that. I would never do that, and I think that tells other people about your understanding. You are fusing your grounds, and exposing your power cables. Good luck with that.
The problem you're having is you were wrong in how you did it, and you think just because it works, FOR YOU, FOR NOW, IN YOUR SETUP, doesn't mean it's the right way to do it. It might work for you, but EVERYONE would have a very slim area where it wouldn't work for them. EVERYONE could say the same thing about that method, it will work until it doesn't, and you risk catastrophic failure depending on a couple variables of the equipment.
The ONLY thing in all that hoopla after you told me I that is an actual reply to what I said is this:
What do you think putting a fuse on a ground circuit would do? Fusing it does not create an alternate, it creates the possibility to eliminate it.
Hate to break it to you, but just because they are your older brothers doesn't mean they are experts. If they were experts tell me why, being your brother is irrelevant, and if that's all you got, then it's pointless.
Your link and video are not saying what you are. That's completely different, and if you want to have a discussion, then use your words, and don't just post links expecting someone to read several pages and watch videos to try to figure out what you want to say.
and is it really that hard for you to use paragraphs. They separate subjects for context and clarity, but I don't think your goal is to actually have a well written and understood argument.
With 0% ******** meant: You're running wires under the body from front to back, to hide the wires. You can keep getting mad if you want to, but I guarantee there are better ways to do that. I would never do that, and I think that tells other people about your understanding. You are fusing your grounds, and exposing your power cables. Good luck with that.
”What do you think putting a fuse on a ground circuit would do? Fusing it does not create an alternate; it creates the possibility to eliminate it.”
Wrong. It’s no different than fusing the power lead.
“Hate to break it to you, but just because they are your older brothers doesn't mean they are experts. If they were experts tell me why, being your brother is irrelevant, and if that's all you got, then it's pointless.”
I’m from a family of engineers, accomplished ones at that. Additionally, they’re respected members in the community where they reside and are considered very accomplished in their respective disciplines, they're both comfortably retired, currently. You know that double window drive through communications system that that McDonalds uses for their drive through to increase the speed of ordering and receiving your food? One of my “irrelevant” brothers designed that, got fairly wealthy off that too, even though the rights were reserved by the company he contracted his employ with. So, may not be relevant to you but it is to me. Generally speaking, family members are more trustworthy than strangers (and people that don’t have multiple degrees in this field).
“Your link and video are not saying what you are. That's completely different, and if you want to have a discussion, then use your words, and don't just post links expecting someone to read several pages and watch videos to try to figure out what you want to say.”
You asked for additional information, I obliged. It’s not dissimilar and speaks to what I said, that this may be a subject that sparks discussions , as it has since the time I’ve known about it, not because it is incorrect, but that other ways are more often used (and for different reasons)
“and is it really that hard for you to use paragraphs. They separate subjects for context and clarity, but I don't think your goal is to actually have a well written and understood argument.”
I write legal responses to the BBB and various other state regulatory agencies, the FCC, the PUC and various State attorney Generals in my capacity as a Corporate Technical Escalations Analyst for multi-billion dollar Telecommunications Company, I make an effort to be very astute, very accurate and thorough. Sorry if that does not comport with your idea of a “well written and understood” argument. Paragraph enough?
“With 0% ******** meant: You're running wires under the body from front to back, to hide the wires. You can keep getting mad if you want to, but I guarantee there are better ways to do that. I would never do that, and I think that tells other people about your understanding.”
I’m not angry; on the contrary, I enjoy a little verbal repartee!
I have no issues with the “other” ways of doing this. That said, the wire is all wrapped in heavy duty nylon, heat resistant nylon loom, Just like it is in the engine compartment. It’s mounted to the underside of the car with retaining brackets every 20” or so (which is done by the install shop doing this part of the setup), usually in recessed areas to avoid the possibility of stuff being kicked up at it, though even that is really no big deal given the quality of the wire and loom used. My other car went 9 years with this setup and never had a single incident or issue. This is then routed through any sheet metal with heavy duty nylon grommets. It is simple, effective, very clean, doesn’t cause a bunch of routing issues inside the car like bumps in the carpet, panels that don’t recess well due to massive cables getting in the way. It also separates these high current power/ground cables from the systems audio signal transport cables (speaker and signal RCA’s), what about that doesn’t sound like a good thing to anyone???
“You are fusing your grounds, and exposing your power cables. Good luck with that.”
It’s not luck; it is known scientific and mechanical engineering applications know-how. There is absolutely nothing wrong with fusing your grounds in this scenario (overkill to some, maybe). And, the only thing exposed here is your narrow viewpoint and lack of understanding, more like unwillingness to accept the reality, true nature about any of this. With that said, best if we just agree to disagree.
Wrong. It’s no different than fusing the power lead.
“Hate to break it to you, but just because they are your older brothers doesn't mean they are experts. If they were experts tell me why, being your brother is irrelevant, and if that's all you got, then it's pointless.”
I’m from a family of engineers, accomplished ones at that. Additionally, they’re respected members in the community where they reside and are considered very accomplished in their respective disciplines, they're both comfortably retired, currently. You know that double window drive through communications system that that McDonalds uses for their drive through to increase the speed of ordering and receiving your food? One of my “irrelevant” brothers designed that, got fairly wealthy off that too, even though the rights were reserved by the company he contracted his employ with. So, may not be relevant to you but it is to me. Generally speaking, family members are more trustworthy than strangers (and people that don’t have multiple degrees in this field).
“Your link and video are not saying what you are. That's completely different, and if you want to have a discussion, then use your words, and don't just post links expecting someone to read several pages and watch videos to try to figure out what you want to say.”
You asked for additional information, I obliged. It’s not dissimilar and speaks to what I said, that this may be a subject that sparks discussions , as it has since the time I’ve known about it, not because it is incorrect, but that other ways are more often used (and for different reasons)
“and is it really that hard for you to use paragraphs. They separate subjects for context and clarity, but I don't think your goal is to actually have a well written and understood argument.”
I write legal responses to the BBB and various other state regulatory agencies, the FCC, the PUC and various State attorney Generals in my capacity as a Corporate Technical Escalations Analyst for multi-billion dollar Telecommunications Company, I make an effort to be very astute, very accurate and thorough. Sorry if that does not comport with your idea of a “well written and understood” argument. Paragraph enough?
“With 0% ******** meant: You're running wires under the body from front to back, to hide the wires. You can keep getting mad if you want to, but I guarantee there are better ways to do that. I would never do that, and I think that tells other people about your understanding.”
I’m not angry; on the contrary, I enjoy a little verbal repartee!
I have no issues with the “other” ways of doing this. That said, the wire is all wrapped in heavy duty nylon, heat resistant nylon loom, Just like it is in the engine compartment. It’s mounted to the underside of the car with retaining brackets every 20” or so (which is done by the install shop doing this part of the setup), usually in recessed areas to avoid the possibility of stuff being kicked up at it, though even that is really no big deal given the quality of the wire and loom used. My other car went 9 years with this setup and never had a single incident or issue. This is then routed through any sheet metal with heavy duty nylon grommets. It is simple, effective, very clean, doesn’t cause a bunch of routing issues inside the car like bumps in the carpet, panels that don’t recess well due to massive cables getting in the way. It also separates these high current power/ground cables from the systems audio signal transport cables (speaker and signal RCA’s), what about that doesn’t sound like a good thing to anyone???
“You are fusing your grounds, and exposing your power cables. Good luck with that.”
It’s not luck; it is known scientific and mechanical engineering applications know-how. There is absolutely nothing wrong with fusing your grounds in this scenario (overkill to some, maybe). And, the only thing exposed here is your narrow viewpoint and lack of understanding, more like unwillingness to accept the reality, true nature about any of this. With that said, best if we just agree to disagree.
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So, couple of things. Not everyone is onboard with fusing the negative terminals, but I do for the following reason. If the stock ground strap from the battery to the body were to come disconnected or get pinched/cut somehow, the amp chassis and ground wire becomes the new ground path back to the battery. First time you try to start the car the amp goes up in smoke, and possibly the wiring as well. The fuse might not save your amp, but it would prevent the wiring from becoming overloaded and starting a fire. Is it rare, maybe but if you are the one...
Optional, not everon agrees that you should. As for the rest, here is what I would do. First, when the combined amperage is 300 or less, I use quick acting push button reset breakers like these. They are much fastre acting than fuses.:Amazon product ASIN B09GXXK11J
Additionally, because I’m running all my grounds back to the battery terminal in the front, I run double the amount for ground. If you are going to chassis ground, no need to do this. You could remove the fuse that you have under the hood and just insert one these breakers in its place and use your existing fuse, in-line prior to the rear battery (as close as is possible) to the rear battery. Then I use a single to double terminal mount on the battery like this one (relative to your battery, post or screw) such as these – use one of the 1/0 receptacles as for the cable you are connecting from the front battery and the remaining receptacle for the next runs run to the 1/0 to dual 4awg block for your amps:
https://www.amazon.com/Amplifiers-Car-Audio-Video-Electronics/b/?ie=UTF8&node=898116&ref_=sv_e_car_7
Or these (the ones I recently used):
Amazon product ASIN B001H4Y5OA
Now you have the batteries connected and fused, ready to go. From the 2nd battery, run a short 1/0, say 12” or whatever works power lead and if you are grounding this in the back too, 1/0 to your ground choice within 18” of the 2nd battery.
Then use one of these from for your power lead to power your amps:
Amazon product ASIN B089CGX68J
Then to a CAP (if you’re using one), then to your amp(s). You can use a grounding block or separate ground leads, 4 gauge or larger to the grounding points you wish to use. I provided this to show the direction and placement of the fusing, you can use ring terminals or other connecting blocks, whatever, as long as the placement mimics this path, you’re good to go.
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