2019 Super Crew F150 box

[4BangerStanger]

So, I sold my Mustang and bought a 2019 F150 super crew. Does anyone have a good box design for under the rear seats? I have 2 Sundown E8 subs that I had in my Mustang in a ported box that Shredder designed.

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[4BangerStanger]

Something along the lines of this would be OK. But, I'd like for it to sit back a little further so I don't have to worry about my daughter kicking it every time she's in the truck.

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

I’ve always loved that setup of 3-4 8’s under the F-150 seat firing forward. I would do something like that and either buy or make some grills for them.
I currently have 2 IDQ 10’s in a fox box (2009 f-150) I sealed off firing downward and it’s ok

 

[4BangerStanger]

I don't mind that style at all. Ideally, it'd be set back an inch or two. I don't like how it protrudes past the from if the seat. Maybe just doing 2 subs will allow me to make the box a little shallower? I'm sure I could get the box dimensions figured it was enough, but have no idea how to handle the port, or even if I can port it.

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

SSA did a build log where they put I think 3 of their F8L’s in a ported box under the seat of a newer model F-150 so you can draw some ideas from their build.

 

[4BangerStanger]

SSA did a build log where they put I think 3 of their F8L’s in a ported box under the seat of a newer model F-150 so you can draw some ideas from their build.

I'll check them out. I did find a post on an F150 forum where a guy built a box for 4 6.5s. He said "Box is 53 wide, front height is 10" back height is 6.5" 12" deep." to give an idea of the dimensions that will work. Again, the biggest thing I'd need help with is the port. Not sure what the best way to do it would be. I'd prefer a slot port. But, a round one might be easier/better.

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

With tight spaces I usually use an aero port. I’ve had pretty good results with them in the past.

 

[4BangerStanger]

SSA did a build log where they put I think 3 of their F8L’s in a ported box under the seat of a newer model F-150 so you can draw some ideas from their build.

So, based on their build thread, I've come up with dimensions that I think will work. It's basically a slightly shrunken down version if their box. Which I think should be OK since I'm using one less driver. I'm just not sure how to handle the port. Ideally, I'd like to have a slot port on the front of the box. But, I'm unsure how to calculate the size of the port. The dimensions are width - 48", front height - 9”, back height - 6", and depth 11". I'm thinking a port that's 2.5-3 inches wide would be good, but how long?

 

[4BangerStanger]

Here's a pic of their box. Same concept, a little smaller, and with the port opening on the front.

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

I’m not sure on the port. I refer to others when it comes to dimensions. I do like that box though. I’d love to do one but have too much equipment as it is.

 

[shredder2]

As far as port area goes it depends on volume/power.
And for configuration I'd load the port towards the door as well subs forward.
Configured like that you'll have a much easier time keeping the port area uniform thruout the entire length of the port vs a front firing port in an underseat box where a janky bend would be necessary if using a slot.

 

[4BangerStanger]

As far as port area goes it depends on volume/power.
And for configuration I'd load the port towards the door as well subs forward.
Configured like that you'll have a much easier time keeping the port area uniform thruout the entire length of the port vs a front firing port in an underseat box where a janky bend would be necessary if using a slot.

Thanks Shredder. That makes total sense. In playing around with some calculators online, it looks like the box will be a littl over 1.5 cubic feet (haven't factored bracing in yet - I'm thinking a coupe window braces will be good). Looks like a 3" wide port with average height of 6 19/33" about 28 1/4" length will put me right at 33 Hz, which is what my last box of as tuned to. The amp that I'm pushing them with is the SoundCubed 1250. Does the math check out? I'm not sure how accurate this particular calculator is? I've got some room to go wider on the box if I need more airspace.

 

[shredder2]

Without doing all the calculations and doing the design it looks about right.

One thing to keep in mind is the magnet clearance, I always check by doing something like this quick and dirty.

* this is not for your subs... only an example*

I've had to rake the baffle to get magnet clearance before so keep that in mind.

 

[4BangerStanger]

Without doing all the calculations and doing the design it looks about right.

One thing to keep in mind is the magnet clearance, I always check by doing something like this quick and dirty.

* this is not for your subs... only an example*

I've had to rake the baffle to get magnet clearance before so keep that in mind.

Good call. I had that same thought when I was mocking it up to get the port dimensions. I'm pretty sure it'll be OK, but I'll double check. The e8s are pretty shallow and if needed, I'll reposition them to be clear if the front wall of the port. Out of curiosity, what's the minimum distance needed between the back of the sub and a side of the box or port?

 

[shredder2]

Id be more worried about height and side magnet clearance.
Positioning on the baffle and/or raking the baffle can add clearance there if needed.
As far as depth clearance goes I keep it to .75" minimum.