- Thread Starter
- #2
Found on the last page of this thread repair manual but can't seem to find anything about speaker wiring diagram.
keep_hope_alive
Premium Member
Acoustics Engineer
welcome.
first, you need an interface between the stock head unit and the amplifier(s). The Audio Control LCQ-1 is a nice piece for this and includes some equalization for you to further tweak the system.
you will need to run new wire from the crossover's tweeter outputs to the tweeters. the stock tweeters have a small crossover mounted to them. locate them in the stock locations as they were determined on purpose by the vehicle engineers. further testing of locations and aiming are possible if you want to build custom pods.
you can re-use the stock wiring for the door woofers and intercept it behind the head unit (i.e. cut) and connect to the crossover woofer outputs.
new wire will be used from the amplifier to the crossover inputs. i like mounting crossovers next to the amp for several reasons but this increases wire length. not a huge deal since you are running cables anyway. you can put them in the glove box but you lose some space there and wiring is a PITA.
the LCQ-1 (or other OEM interface) will also need to be accessible so putting it under a seat or at the amp is a good idea (not behind the dash). you will need to run wiring from the stock head unit to the interface as well.
for jobs like this, i find cutting wires poor form and I buy two wire harnesses. one into the car and one into the radio. that simplifies installation and eliminates cutting of factory wiring while allowing you to reuse some of it.
first, you need an interface between the stock head unit and the amplifier(s). The Audio Control LCQ-1 is a nice piece for this and includes some equalization for you to further tweak the system.
you will need to run new wire from the crossover's tweeter outputs to the tweeters. the stock tweeters have a small crossover mounted to them. locate them in the stock locations as they were determined on purpose by the vehicle engineers. further testing of locations and aiming are possible if you want to build custom pods.
you can re-use the stock wiring for the door woofers and intercept it behind the head unit (i.e. cut) and connect to the crossover woofer outputs.
new wire will be used from the amplifier to the crossover inputs. i like mounting crossovers next to the amp for several reasons but this increases wire length. not a huge deal since you are running cables anyway. you can put them in the glove box but you lose some space there and wiring is a PITA.
the LCQ-1 (or other OEM interface) will also need to be accessible so putting it under a seat or at the amp is a good idea (not behind the dash). you will need to run wiring from the stock head unit to the interface as well.
for jobs like this, i find cutting wires poor form and I buy two wire harnesses. one into the car and one into the radio. that simplifies installation and eliminates cutting of factory wiring while allowing you to reuse some of it.
tommydh
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
This is the best advice your gonna get listen to this man. I also like the Audio Control Lc6i but the LCQ-1 is the latest piece i believe that includes a few extra features you will find andy. Or you just go new HU its not much diff on price
keep_hope_alive
Premium Member
Acoustics Engineer
if you get the Metra 70-1761 and 71-1761 those harnesses will give you access to the wiring behind the head unit without cutting wires.
The 71-1761 plugs into the back of the radio and you get front and rear speaker outputs you can extend to the OEM interface.
The 70-1761 plugs into the harness in the car and gives you access to the front speaker wires and lets you connect the rear speakers to the head unit. you can connect power and ground between the two, and tap it also for power of the interface (if you want to put it under the front seats, for example).
The 71-1761 plugs into the back of the radio and you get front and rear speaker outputs you can extend to the OEM interface.
The 70-1761 plugs into the harness in the car and gives you access to the front speaker wires and lets you connect the rear speakers to the head unit. you can connect power and ground between the two, and tap it also for power of the interface (if you want to put it under the front seats, for example).
- Thread Starter
- #6
Thanks for the reply. Originally it was just a low budget build, hook up the cheap sub box that I picked up and I'm happy with the added bump with the single 10" but we all know how every budget builds gets out of hand easily once you start reading up on one of these forums.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
The audio control unit looks like a great idea but I think once I get another good excuse for a GPS navigation unit for my wife then boom there goes in a 6-7 inch touch/smart/nav HU. I'll stick with 2 sni-35 for now and save it up for new HU.
This is the dash speaker, read somewhere that seem to be the small crossover that you're talking about. So as long as I run new tweeter speakers to the crossover I should be good right? Like I said earlier would to put the tweeter in the dash for stealth however I keep my options open. If I decide to mount it in the door jamb, can I just unplug the dash speaker to disable it? Or would I just end up with an open circuit?
How about front door speaker should I be worried about hidden crossover somewhere in the wiring if I decide to just intercept the factory wiring from the stock HU?
16 guage regular speaker wires should be ok or should I go smaller to make it easier to run? What's the min guage that's recommended? I would like to hide everything under the front seats. What's the no. 1 reason you'd want the crossover by the amp? I always thought people just hid these behind door panels.
71-1761 and 70-1761 purchased through amazon prime already. I'm guessing they have on the packaging which wire is the front/back speakers since they're designed for toyota's?
The audio control unit looks like a great idea but I think once I get another good excuse for a GPS navigation unit for my wife then boom there goes in a 6-7 inch touch/smart/nav HU. I'll stick with 2 sni-35 for now and save it up for new HU.
This is the dash speaker, read somewhere that seem to be the small crossover that you're talking about. So as long as I run new tweeter speakers to the crossover I should be good right? Like I said earlier would to put the tweeter in the dash for stealth however I keep my options open. If I decide to mount it in the door jamb, can I just unplug the dash speaker to disable it? Or would I just end up with an open circuit?
How about front door speaker should I be worried about hidden crossover somewhere in the wiring if I decide to just intercept the factory wiring from the stock HU?
16 guage regular speaker wires should be ok or should I go smaller to make it easier to run? What's the min guage that's recommended? I would like to hide everything under the front seats. What's the no. 1 reason you'd want the crossover by the amp? I always thought people just hid these behind door panels.
71-1761 and 70-1761 purchased through amazon prime already. I'm guessing they have on the packaging which wire is the front/back speakers since they're designed for toyota's?
keep_hope_alive
Premium Member
Acoustics Engineer
the black cylinder with letters on it is a capacitor (non-polarized). in-series with the speaker it provides a 6dB/octave high pass filter (not suitable for tweeters).
you would make a mount to hold the new tweeter in that location - you will want to play with aiming for best sound (forward, up, back, angled, etc.)
the front woofer is full-range. no worries about a crossover on it.
16awg is fine. 18 awg is as small as I go (and it needs to be high-quality CL2 rated wire). I commonly use 2- and 4-conductor CL2 rated wire (has an outer jacket and used in home construction, in walls).
NEVER put a crossover inside a door. inside of a door gets wet and will rust/destroy crossovers. aftermarket speakers need to have an internal water channel - I use closed cell weatherstripping foam. (I also use foam to create seals between speaker and door panel - see my build logs) Putting it behind the panel (on the plastic) only works if the tweeter is mounted to the door - door tweeters usually suffer for location due to height. Since the crossover needs to feed the door and dash, keeping it in the cabin makes the most sense and simplifies everything. most have adjustments for tweeter level so you want them accessible. you can hide them, but you want wiring secure so it doesn't loosen. mounted at the amp is the most secure location, wire management is easily achieved, and access is inherent.
luckily, with the wire adapters you bought, the color codes are industry standard and simply match up. and yes, a color code is provided on the package.
color codes:
Car Stereo Head Unit Wiring Harness
factory color codes (for factory wire polarity identification)
2012 Toyota 4Runner Car Audio Wiring Chart
Car Radio Battery Constant 12V+ Wire: Light Blue
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12V+ Wire: Gray
Car Radio Ground Wire: Brown
Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A
Car Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Radio Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Tweeter Size: 2 3/5″ Tweeters
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Violet
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Pink
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6″ x 9″ Speakers
Car Audio Front Speakers Depth: 4″
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): White
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2″ Speakers
Second Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2″ Speakers
you would make a mount to hold the new tweeter in that location - you will want to play with aiming for best sound (forward, up, back, angled, etc.)
the front woofer is full-range. no worries about a crossover on it.
16awg is fine. 18 awg is as small as I go (and it needs to be high-quality CL2 rated wire). I commonly use 2- and 4-conductor CL2 rated wire (has an outer jacket and used in home construction, in walls).
NEVER put a crossover inside a door. inside of a door gets wet and will rust/destroy crossovers. aftermarket speakers need to have an internal water channel - I use closed cell weatherstripping foam. (I also use foam to create seals between speaker and door panel - see my build logs) Putting it behind the panel (on the plastic) only works if the tweeter is mounted to the door - door tweeters usually suffer for location due to height. Since the crossover needs to feed the door and dash, keeping it in the cabin makes the most sense and simplifies everything. most have adjustments for tweeter level so you want them accessible. you can hide them, but you want wiring secure so it doesn't loosen. mounted at the amp is the most secure location, wire management is easily achieved, and access is inherent.
luckily, with the wire adapters you bought, the color codes are industry standard and simply match up. and yes, a color code is provided on the package.
color codes:
Car Stereo Head Unit Wiring Harness
factory color codes (for factory wire polarity identification)
2012 Toyota 4Runner Car Audio Wiring Chart
Car Radio Battery Constant 12V+ Wire: Light Blue
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12V+ Wire: Gray
Car Radio Ground Wire: Brown
Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A
Car Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Radio Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Tweeter Size: 2 3/5″ Tweeters
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Violet
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Pink
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6″ x 9″ Speakers
Car Audio Front Speakers Depth: 4″
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): White
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2″ Speakers
Second Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2″ Speakers
- Thread Starter
- #8
Ok got it. Almost have everything I need to do the install, component is scheduled to be delivered later today. I was going to start sound deadening the door this morning but rained overnight with 1 rear window cracked open so will need to wait for it to dry up.
Got the wiring cables and just trying to visualize how to wire it up. So you're saying that unplug the factory harness from HU and replace with 71-1761 and plug the 70-1761 into the factory harness that I disconnected from the HU then splice them all back up with 1 SNI35 to left and right front speakers, and 1 SNI35 into just 1 rear speaker and power/or remote turn on for the amp?
Should I turn the SNI35 gain all the way up before leaving it inside the panels?
Just going through your build and would love to demo those cars you've built up. How do you go about knowing how these panels comes off in cars that you are not familiar with?
BTW ended up a getting a used JL HD600/4 for dirt cheap. Would 150 watts be too much for the Image Dynamics CTX since it's only rated for 50 rms each? Or the 150 watts is more like 75 watts each speakers?
Thanks for the help again.
Got the wiring cables and just trying to visualize how to wire it up. So you're saying that unplug the factory harness from HU and replace with 71-1761 and plug the 70-1761 into the factory harness that I disconnected from the HU then splice them all back up with 1 SNI35 to left and right front speakers, and 1 SNI35 into just 1 rear speaker and power/or remote turn on for the amp?
Should I turn the SNI35 gain all the way up before leaving it inside the panels?
Just going through your build and would love to demo those cars you've built up. How do you go about knowing how these panels comes off in cars that you are not familiar with?
BTW ended up a getting a used JL HD600/4 for dirt cheap. Would 150 watts be too much for the Image Dynamics CTX since it's only rated for 50 rms each? Or the 150 watts is more like 75 watts each speakers?
Thanks for the help again.
keep_hope_alive
Premium Member
Acoustics Engineer
you don't reconnect the front speaker wires at the harnesses, you use the front speaker wires (left and right) from the deck to feed the SNI35#1 which gives an RCA signal to the front channels of the amp. the front speaker wires at the car harness are extended to the crossover woofer output.
the rear speaker wires should ideally be assigned to SNI35#2 only and not reconnected to the rear speakers. that lets you use the fader on the head unit as a quasi-sub level control. you won't hear or want to hear the rear speakers anymore anyway. if anything, the rear speakers are now connected to the front speaker output on the head unit and you adjust level with gains so you can barely hear the rears relative to the front.
otherwise, you keep the rears on the head unit and just use SNI35#1 on the fronts to feed 2 channels to the HD600/4. then set the HD600/4 to 2CH input mode.
the rear speaker wires should ideally be assigned to SNI35#2 only and not reconnected to the rear speakers. that lets you use the fader on the head unit as a quasi-sub level control. you won't hear or want to hear the rear speakers anymore anyway. if anything, the rear speakers are now connected to the front speaker output on the head unit and you adjust level with gains so you can barely hear the rears relative to the front.
otherwise, you keep the rears on the head unit and just use SNI35#1 on the fronts to feed 2 channels to the HD600/4. then set the HD600/4 to 2CH input mode.
CrossoverOre
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
another thing to keep in mind is it looks like the signal is jumped through the connector at the tweeter. might be easier (if they fit) to put the xovers in the dash below the tweets. if I'm not mistaken if you just unplug the tweet you loose signal to the mid in the door. The oem toyota wiring usually is a little beefier than some and should be sufficient to supply power to the doors without having to run new wires.
- Thread Starter
- #11
D-Day today! Started at 12p halfway there. Amp wired up with power,ground and speakers wires to crossover hiding spot. just need to deal with wiring with HU.
Bracket/adapter got online from tacotunes for 6x9 to 6.5 doesn't fit. Will need to make a trip to a shop tomorrow to get it fabricated.
Gain on sni35 should I set everything on max?
Bracket/adapter got online from tacotunes for 6x9 to 6.5 doesn't fit. Will need to make a trip to a shop tomorrow to get it fabricated.
Gain on sni35 should I set everything on max?
- Thread Starter
- #12
ust wired up the sni35 1 to front HU and SNI35 2 to rear.
just to verify
12 volt red from HU to remote turn on rfor amp right?
I'm using 2 toyota metra harness so do I hook up everything else on the harness besides the front and rear to SNI35 ( 12 volt memory, ground, power ant,)?
just to verify
12 volt red from HU to remote turn on rfor amp right?
I'm using 2 toyota metra harness so do I hook up everything else on the harness besides the front and rear to SNI35 ( 12 volt memory, ground, power ant,)?
- Thread Starter
- #13
The the amp is working now with sub, man the HD600/4 is overkill for the JL 10W0v3-4, gain is not even quarter up with bass set -5, truck is thumpin! I'll probably look for another shallow mount speaker with higher RMS rating to replace this JL.
Quick question on fuse, the HD600/4 manual recommends 50 amps fuse, closest I can get is 60 amp fuse, should I keep looking for 50 amps fuse or 60 would work?
Quick question on fuse, the HD600/4 manual recommends 50 amps fuse, closest I can get is 60 amp fuse, should I keep looking for 50 amps fuse or 60 would work?
CrossoverOre
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
60 is fine
- Thread Starter
- #15
ok . Thanks.
Quick question anyone know which wire is + or - on Image Dynamics CTX 6.5 tweeter? Found it's manual didn't say which is which.
Quick question anyone know which wire is + or - on Image Dynamics CTX 6.5 tweeter? Found it's manual didn't say which is which.
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