2011 Tuscon Limited - No sound after ZAP

[rvgenomini]

If while testing you accidently touch two pins on a live circuit, we could end up frying a working amplifier. Another way to test is to get access to one of the speakers and do it there. That will also allow you to test the speaker's resistance.

Okay I'm not quite understanding then, I thought I was doing the same style of test with the probes as I did with connector A (only using ACV setting). The amplifier won't even be plugged in. Am I missing something?

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

The amplifier won't even be plugged in. Am I missing something?

My bad. For this test the amp will be activated. I wanted to test if the radio was sending audio but I do not see the audio input in the pinout. So testing at the speaker is the next step.

 

[rvgenomini]

My bad. For this test the amp will be activated. I wanted to test if the radio was sending audio but I do not see the audio input in the pinout. So testing at the speaker is the next step.

Should I just disconnect the connector and test the ports here:

 

[rvgenomini]

My bad. For this test the amp will be activated. I wanted to test if the radio was sending audio but I do not see the audio input in the pinout. So testing at the speaker is the next step.

The diagram I posted is for a 2017 model, nvm.

Where do I test at the speaker? Never opened a door panel before, unless the tweeter in the sail panel is fine.

 

[rvgenomini]

My bad. For this test the amp will be activated. I wanted to test if the radio was sending audio but I do not see the audio input in the pinout. So testing at the speaker is the next step.

Okay I ran an ACV test with the car off as well as running with the radio on.

Used the probes at the two-wire tweeter harness and on the backside of the tweeter when connected.

0 V steady.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Where do I test at the speaker? Never opened a door panel before, unless the tweeter in the sail panel is fine.

Okay I ran an ACV test with the car off as well as running with the radio on.

Used the probes at the two-wire tweeter harness and on the backside of the tweeter when connected.

0 V steady.

Ok just to clarify; amp fully connected, radio playing, volume at least 50%? 0 volts. Aside from the 3 connectors, are there others? I wonder where the audio signal goes into the amp.
Last test. Using the pinout, test each speaker's resistance on the harness side. If they are all around the same, then the amp may be the issue.

 

[rvgenomini]

Ok just to clarify; amp fully connected, radio playing, volume at least 50%? 0 volts. Aside from the 3 connectors, are there others? I wonder where the audio signal goes into the amp.
Last test. Using the pinout, test each speaker's resistance on the harness side. If they are all around the same, then the amp may be the issue.

Amp was fully connected (there are 3 ports but only 2 connectors).
I assume the radio was playing (set it to a station at least) but I can run sound on aux input tomorrow.
1/4 volume or so.

I'll redo ACV test and then conduct resistance test before reporting back.

Thanks for your patience and help.

 

[rvgenomini]

Ok just to clarify; amp fully connected, radio playing, volume at least 50%? 0 volts. Aside from the 3 connectors, are there others? I wonder where the audio signal goes into the amp.
Last test. Using the pinout, test each speaker's resistance on the harness side. If they are all around the same, then the amp may be the issue.

Right, fully connected, radio on >50% volume, or off, 0 V steady. Same results as yesterday.

Tested resistance on both tweeters and passenger side speaker, steady 3 k ohm for all, radio/car on or off.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

k ohm for all

Was this done with the speakers disconnected? They should be in the 4-2 Ohms range.

 

[rvgenomini]

Was this done with the speakers disconnected? They should be in the 4-2 Ohms range.

Maybe the k meant something else, it was just on the display.

I was measuring at the connectors (unplugged from speakers).

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Maybe the k meant something else, it was just on the display.

I was measuring at the connectors (unplugged from speakers).

What we want to measure is the speaker itself, no connector on it. The connector will give a wrong reading.

 

[rvgenomini]

What we want to measure is the speaker itself, no connector on it. The connector will give a wrong reading.

My bad, on it.

 

[rvgenomini]

What we want to measure is the speaker itself, no connector on it. The connector will give a wrong reading.

Alright, I can't get a steady resistance reading (even with stationary probes). It just hops around, car/radio on or off. Max was about 11 ohms. Not sure what it means.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

It just hops around, car/radio on or off.

Yes, any ambient noise will get the cone to vibrate causing resistance variation. The good thing is that it means the speakers are still good. So the amp is not sending power. When you tested before you got zero value regardless of radio volume. Tomorrow I will test my amp's speaker output with the volume on zero. I want to see if I get any kind of reading.
If I do get something then you should have as well.

 

[rvgenomini]

Yes, any ambient noise will get the cone to vibrate causing resistance variation. The good thing is that it means the speakers are still good. So the amp is not sending power. When you tested before you got zero value regardless of radio volume. Tomorrow I will test my amp's speaker output with the volume on zero. I want to see if I get any kind of reading.
If I do get something then you should have as well.

Much appreciated, I'm getting the feeling the amp is toast. Excited to hear your results!