2010 Subaru Forester Build

fliptwister
10+ year member

Member
OK, nothing too fancy here. This is what I put in my 2010 Forester 2.5 X premium (MT). I wanted a great sound system without having a sub in the rear (by order of the wife). So far it consist of:

Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X791 - Head Unit

Precision Power PPI 356CS - 6 1/2" component speakers (front)

Infinity Reference 6022i - 6 1/2" coaxial speakers (rear)

MB Quart DSC 480 - 4 channel amp (RMS @ 4 ohms: 80 watts x 4)

Kicker TCVT84 subwoofer/enclosure (200 watts RMS, 4 ohm)

I'm running the front component speakers off of 2 channels of amp and the rear coaxials off of HU. I'm bridging 2 channels (320 watts RMS) to subwoofer under passenger seat.

The rear area with amp, crossovers, and Sirius box. Everything is screwed down and have cable ties securing cables. This area is not visible. This tray is above spare tire and below a fiberglass panel.

original.jpg


HU:

original.jpg


Tweeter on door. There is also a flush mount which I may change to:

original.jpg


USB jack in lower storage bin:

original.jpg


Front door with the PPI 356cs woofer:

original.jpg


Infinity Reference 6022i compared to rear factory speaker. Tiny magnet on that factory speaker...

original.jpg


Infinity 6022i in rear door:

original.jpg


Here is sub/enclosure with the seat unbolted from floor and leaned back:

original.jpg


Front view of sub with seat down:

original.jpg


Everything sounds great and I'm looking forward to it breaking-in a bit. I'm very impressed with the MB Quart amp. It has very clean sound and does not get very hot (which is good news given that where I have it has no ventilation).

The component set sounds amazing though I'm starting to wish I was feeding them more than 80 watts RMS. Mid-bass is very rich and deep...the highs are fantastic and not too harsh. The set sounds so clean and natural. I'm hearing stuff in music that I have not heard in my home system.

The Kicker sub/enclosure really has surprised me. It sounds amazing for what it is. I'm really blown away that it can produce so much bass from such a small package. It really works in well with the PPI component set as well. The bass is very tight and not sloppy at all. I'm surprised at the thump this sub can produce as well. This sub is known to need about a 2 week break-in period so I'm looking very forward to it getting even better. I set the gain on amp for the 2 channels I have bridged to run at 200 watts RMS at 80% volume. Sub is not overpowering the components even at high volume. It is obviously not window shaking bass but it is only an 8" sub in a tiny enclosure. That being said it is very impressive how much bass they managed to get out of this. It is more of a sound quality sub than a loud sub. My components get very low and sound great but when I turn off sub now it is amazing how much low end I was missing.

That is it for now. Thanks to everyone that has given me advice here. I would have gone a much different direction if I had not had all the good advice that I got here.

 
Very nice. Are there factory locations for the tweeters?
There are but the PPI tweeters do not fit. Kind of bummed about that. It would have looked much more clean that way. I'm considering going with the flush mount in same spot though I'm concerned about what I would do if I sold car.

 
There are but the PPI tweeters do not fit. Kind of bummed about that. It would have looked much more clean that way. I'm considering going with the flush mount in same spot though I'm concerned about what I would do if I sold car.
Sure, that makes sense. Is there room in the sail panels - the triangular pieces over the mirrors? Those pieces of trim can be very inexpensive to replace. With my install, I bought a new set of A-pillar trim to install the tweeters.

 
Sure, that makes sense. Is there room in the sail panels - the triangular pieces over the mirrors? Those pieces of trim can be very inexpensive to replace. With my install, I bought a new set of A-pillar trim to install the tweeters.
this. I just bought a 2010 Subaru legacy,goin to throw tweeters in the factory location. nice car by the way!

 
Here are some shots to show issue with these tweeters and the sail panels. The dilemma that I have is that the factory tweeter mount that is in the sail panel is meant for a 1" tweeter. While the PPI tweeter is a 1" tweeter is does not come out of the frame. The tweeter with frame is in fact 1 3/4". Here is sail panel without spot for tweeter compared to panel with a place for tweeter:

original.jpg


Here is where sail panel goes. The wire that is there is wiring that was pre-installed for people to plug factory tweeter kit into. I considered mounting tweeter under the sail panel but there really no way to do it. There is just not enough space above where friction clip goes in.

original.jpg


Here is tweeter sail panel with PPI tweeter placed in it. It is hard to tell from picture but there is just not enough space. Even if I cut away most the plastic I don't think it could be done.

original.jpg


Here is non tweeter sail panel next to tweeter. After I realized the tweeter did not fit in the factory mount I was considering drilling a 1 3/4" hole at an angle and possibly fit tweeter in there. There really is not enough space in panel for whole tweeter so the only way to do it would be to somehow incorporate the surface mount (that is now on door) into the sail panel. I could drill the 1 3/4" hole and slide the surface mount in and glue it. I'm not sure how good this would work and look though...

original.jpg


Any ideas? These panels are relatively cheap so I really have no issue experimenting a little. In reality I'm not that bothered by the current surface mounts...

 
No input on tweeters?

I thought I would add how I got rid of rattles and buzzing with doors for others that are putting sound system in their Forester. My next step is to deaden the doors more with Dynamat or Raamat. There was a lot of rattles and buzzing going on before I took these steps. Here are steps I took to dampen sound from doors. Most of the credit goes to boon4376 for these:

1. Use Dynamat speaker kits for speakers. I put the cut out circle behind speaker.

2. Remove baffle in front doors. I found it easier to pry the bead of adhesive up that is holding the sheet of plastic (pry slowly). Do not try to pry plastic sheet off of adhesive. The adhesive and sheet can be put back easily after removing baffle.

3. On front doors put mounting tape or squares between the square plastic piece and door. I did this is 4 spots.

4. Put mounting tape in between door and friction clips. I found this easiest to do if you cover about half the hole before sliding friction clip back in. I also found it easier to do if I tilted the friction clip up a bit to get over the mounting tape.

Here is door with baffle:

original.jpg


and without baffle:

original.jpg


Picture of white plastic square and with mounting squares:

original.jpg


Here is close up of mounting tape on friction clip.

original.jpg


 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

fliptwister

10+ year member
Member
Thread starter
fliptwister
Joined
Location
Ripon WI
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
10
Views
10,720
Last reply date
Last reply from
-Leister-
IMG_20260516_193114554_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_20260516_192955471_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top