2005 Silverado Radio Wiring Diagram?

[Randy Savage 5,000+ posts]

Speaker colors look right.

To get amp turn on, the pink wire on the radio harness should be that. Do you have a voltage meter or multimeter?

 

[Shu 10+ year member]

Yep I have a multimeter. Is the pink wire in the factory harness or in the adapter harness? The more I think about my wiring, the more I think I should just cut the factory harness, separate out the speaker wires and go from there.

 

[Randy Savage 5,000+ posts]

The pink wire is from the factory harness. It should test 12v when car is on and 0 when car is off, although with the new GM's data system it might stay constant 12v, then you'd have to go into either the fuse panel or the ignition harness to get a switched 12v power source.

If you're going to cut wires on the harness, just leave enough slack to re-attach them, like I said before.

And make sure you only cut the speaker lines.

 

[Shu 10+ year member]

It's impossible to say whether or not it will definitely get rid of the problem, but you are better off using a line output converter over the high level inputs on an amp.

It sounds like you work somewhere that does installs????? Do you find that high level inputs cause a slight whine (like alternator whine)? I don't have a ton, but it is annoying. I have tried all the things I have read to eliminate the whine ( please read my post earlier in this thread for all my attempts)....any tips on eliminating it other than what I've tried?

 

[Randy Savage 5,000+ posts]

It sounds like you work somewhere that does installs????? Do you find that high level inputs cause a slight whine (like alternator whine)? I don't have a ton, but it is annoying. I have tried all the things I have read to eliminate the whine ( please read my post earlier in this thread for all my attempts)....any tips on eliminating it other than what I've tried?

Yes, I work at a Circuit City as an installer.

I've come across problems with LOC's before- some of them will induce noise if they are poor quality- which is why I suggest picking up the Metra LOC- we sell it for $20 and I've never had a problem with them.

You could try and pick up a ground loop isolator, Radio Shack sells em for $16- http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062214&cp=&origkw=ground+loop+isolator&kw=ground+loop+isolator&parentPage=search

Those don't always work, though.

 

[Shu 10+ year member]

Well I figured it out. The cause of the whining was from the high level (speaker level) inputs. I bought some Stinger line converters and ran RCA plugs back to the amp and BINGO, no more whining, humming or anything even with the cruise on. The sound is even clearer too. Never again will I try to use the high level inputs....newbie lesson learned. But hey, I got a lot of experience in trying to eliminate a open loop ground that didn't exist

 

[Shu 10+ year member]

Oh and no pink wire in the factory stereo wire harness. I had to go to the fuse panel for switched power.

 

[Randy Savage 5,000+ posts]

Lol, glad everything worked out.

It's fun trying to find where noises come from //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Shu 10+ year member]

Oh yeah it was a ton of fun. I spent the better part of the week thinking about it and trying something different. I asked on here. I asked two local shops. Just when I thought I had figured something out, the dang thing would act different, but the slight humming was always there. I did learn some interesting things about the GM ignition door chime thing. I learned that if I powered my amp (remote power) into the fuse block on one terminal, I could get the door chime back even without one of those FANCY door chime kits. The problem was that when the amp was wired like this, it was on all the time. I still do not have any clue why tapping a hot terminal in the fuse block would make the door chime work. I am getting a set of wiring diagram mailed to me so I can try to figure that one out. Anyway, snova031, thanks a ton for all your advise.