2005 Silverado Radio Wiring Diagram?

[Shu 10+ year member]

Does anyone have a copy of a wiring diagram for a 2005 Silverado?

I just installed:

Kenwood KFC-X1700 6.75" Door Speakers

Kenwood KFC-X460 4x6" Rear Pillar Speakers

Rockford Fosgate 12" sub in sub box

Boss GT980 5 channel amp (1200W)

I used a Scoshe (sp?) amp installation kit for 1400 W amps.

I used the factory head unit and ran the speaker leads directly to the high imputs on the amp using Speedwire 9 wire.

Input lines go down passenger side. Power to amp down drivers side. Amp grounded to the cab of the truck (cleaned to bare metal). Speaker ground off amp to the seat bolt (again cleaned to bare metal).

I am getting some whine or humming at idle through the speakers. Even with the head unit off and the amp on, I head a slight hum. When I step on the brakes, the hum increases a little.

The reason for the diagram is that the plug adapters I got at my local stereo place were not coded or placed in the same position as the stock wiring harness and I need to verify positive and negative speaker leads as well as which line controls the amp on/off with the head unit, etc.

It sounds great, except for the slight humming. I have turn the input lines all the way down and the humming is only slight, but there really shouldn’t be any. I think the reason the humming increases when I apply the brakes is because the power supply cable tot eh amp runs in the door jamb and so does some of the factory harness (which I assume has the brake light lines in it).

I have tried grounding the head unit directly to the amp and that makes the humming worse. I have tried to ground the speaker grounds to the amp and then to the chassis and that makes it worse. The best so far is amp ground to cab and speaker ground to seat bolt and head unit just grounded through the factory harness.

So a diagram would be great as well as any tips on things to try to eliminate the humming.

First post, so make me feel welcome //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

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[Shu 10+ year member]

BUMP BUMP BUMP

My first post and no replies???? Come on, make a newbie welcome

 

[Randy Savage 5,000+ posts]

Radio 12v

orange

+

radio harness

Radio Ground black/white - radio harness

Radio Ignition (Class 2 Serial Data)

Radio Illumination N/A

Factory Amp Turn-on pink + radio harness

Power Antenna N/A

LF Speaker +/- tan - gray +,- radio harness

RF Speaker +/- lt. green - dk. green +,- radio harness

LR Speaker +/- brown - yellow +,- radio harness

RR Speaker +/- dk. blue - lt. blue +,- radio harness

 

[89Vette 10+ year member]

Did you keep the stock head unit?

 

[Randy Savage 5,000+ posts]

Yes...he kept the stock head unit.

What are you using for an audio signal to the amp? Line output converter?

Also, what are you grounding out from the speakers? You mentioned speaker ground several times...

 

[Shu 10+ year member]

Thanks guys. Here is how I have it wired. I took the factory harness and plugged in an adapter on the harness and another adapter into the back of the radio. Then I hooked up all the wires between the two adapters except the speaker wires which I ran into a Speedwire 9 wire back to my amp. So I am running high level inputs to the amp.

I have the 4 guage power wire running down the drivers side of the vehicle behind the driver seat (regular cab truck). I have the Speedwire (high level speaker wires) ran down the passenger side and behind that seat. The amp is grounded directly to the cab about 1 foot away. Since I am running high level input wires, they have a ground wire that has to be grounded to the chassis too.

I have a humming in the speakers (alternator whine) that varies with engine speed. I have tried many different things to get rid of it. I have tried to ground the amp all the way back to the battery direct....no change. I have tried to ground the head unit chassis directly to the amp ground...no change. I have tried to ground the black/white radio ground to the amp....made it worse. I have tried to unhook the high level speaker inputs to the amp....made it worse. Originally I had the Speedwire high level speaker input lines ran down the same side as the amp power line and when I moved it there was no change at all in the noise. Tonight I noticed that as the cruise control was on, the noise was worse. I also notice that with the head unit off and the amp on, there is a little deep tone in the speakers until I push the brake pedal, then all is quiet. I also unhoked the speaker level inputs and all is quiet. So, where do I go from here? Keep the ideas coming. Oh, do you think that I might have better luck just cutting the factory harness (speaker wires) and taking those adapters out? I hate to do that, but if that could cause this issue, I will.

 

[Shu 10+ year member]

Radio 12vorange

+

radio harness

Radio Ground black/white - radio harness

Radio Ignition (Class 2 Serial Data)

Radio Illumination N/A

Factory Amp Turn-on pink + radio harness

Power Antenna N/A

LF Speaker +/- tan - gray +,- radio harness

RF Speaker +/- lt. green - dk. green +,- radio harness

LR Speaker +/- brown - yellow +,- radio harness

RR Speaker +/- dk. blue - lt. blue +,- radio harness

Are you sure those are the correct wire colors on the factory harness in a 2005 GM? I don't remember them being those colors, but I'll double check.

 

[Randy Savage 5,000+ posts]

Are you sure those are the correct wire colors on the factory harness in a 2005 GM? I don't remember them being those colors, but I'll double check.

That's what they are listed as, according to Directechs.

Also, those speaker colors, GM has used forever.

 

[Shu 10+ year member]

That's what they are listed as, according to Directechs.
Also, those speaker colors, GM has used forever.

Thank you so much. I have been looking at wires for several days and all the colors are running together. With your number of posts, and after reading your sig....I definitely trust you. Maybe I have them hooked up wrong???? The stereo sounds great though. If they were reversed polarity, would it cause the whine in the speakers?

SO:

LF = tan is negative, gray is positive

RF = lt green is negative, dk green is positive

LR = brown is negative, yellow is positive

RR = dk blue is negative, lt blue is positive

?????

 

[Randy Savage 5,000+ posts]

Nope, shouldn't. All reversing the polarity will do is change the phase, and in most cases, you won't even hear a difference.

Now, when you're talking about high level speaker wires...is there a converter? If so, it could just be a crappy converter- I've hada few people come in with engine noise and they were using a line output converter and that was the source.

Cutting the speaker wires directly at the harness might be your best bet, as long as you leave a little slack on the harness, incase you ever want to re-connect those wires. You could then just extend those back to your amp, and use the wires cut on the harness, and get yourself a new line output converter and hook that up to the wires on the harness.

I'm gonna draw a picture since I think I explained that a little retarded...gimme a few minutes.

 

[Shu 10+ year member]

I'm not running a line converter. I am running the speaker level lines out of the factory head unit directly back to my 4 channel amp with high level inputs (not RCA plug line level). To do this I used a wire called Speedwire 9. This is one big cable with 9 individual color coded to GM colors 16 guage wires run through it. 8 of the wires match up with the +/- speaker colors and the last is a blue wire for AMP remote power.

That brings up another issue....where is a good place to find amp remote power in the factory harness? I can not find a good switched wire back there!

 

[Randy Savage 5,000+ posts]

Hope this makes sense:

 

[Shu 10+ year member]

snova031, thanks for the drawing using line converters. I am not using those right now since my amp accepts high level inputs. I can tune the input level on the amp per channel down or up. I have turned them both down pretty low. So, would line converters likely eliminate my problem? If so is one brand better than another? I already bought this expensive Speedwire from the local car stereo place and they swear by it.

 

[Randy Savage 5,000+ posts]

It's impossible to say whether or not it will definitely get rid of the problem, but you are better off using a line output converter over the high level inputs on an amp.

You can pick up a decent LOC for around $20 from a shop or a Best Buy/Circuit City (we sell the Metra LOC which I've used plenty of times and works well). Then you'll need a set of RCA's from the LOC to the amp...

 

[Shu 10+ year member]

Thanks snova031. Can you go back and verify my wire colors +/- above and give me a tip on where to find a amp remote power line in the factory harness? Is it best to put the line converters by the head unit or the amp?