2003 hyundai tiburon headunit install / system

res09ggm

Junior Member
my friend is looking ot install a Pioneer Premier DEH-840MP, a 12L7 SoloBaric, and a JL 500/1 amp into his car.... He's asking me to install it for him... and I was wondering if I could get any tips... I've wired headunits before, and wired a makeshift amp/sub but that was because i was lending my system to a friend.... SO... I feel up to the challenge and feel I am technically capable enough to install a system into my friend's car. I know some of you will comment on shoddy jobs / SQ / interference.. but I'm here to seek information on a thorough yet non-professional installation. I'm sure if i fiddle aroud enough I'll be able to remove the stock headunit and such.. but i'd like some outside information to aide me...

My friend wants to bolt the amp on the back of the rear seat.. Would I just bolt it on using screws? Also where would i route the power / ground leads? I read somewhere that you should router power cable on one side, and all other wires on the other side of the car. Also... Where would i connect the ground (anywhere on the chassis?) and how would i connect the power from the amp to the battery (drill through firewall). Please don't flame me. I just want to help my friend out while learning as well.. =] All help would be appreciated...THANKS

PS.. I am also going to mount the SoloBaric 12L7 into an enclosure. I have the necesarry tools i believe...but what else would i need? When i physically mount the sub into the box, would i need some kind of mold to catch any air leaks and wherw ould I get this / is it included inthe retail box? I haven't seen everything from my friend yet.. I was just told of it... Thanks again.

 
Originally posted by res09ggm my friend is looking ot install a Pioneer Premier DEH-840MP, a 12L7 SoloBaric, and a JL 500/1 amp into his car.... He's asking me to install it for him... and I was wondering if I could get any tips... I've wired headunits before, and wired a makeshift amp/sub but that was because i was lending my system to a friend.... SO... I feel up to the challenge and feel I am technically capable enough to install a system into my friend's car. I know some of you will comment on shoddy jobs / SQ / interference.. but I'm here to seek information on a thorough yet non-professional installation. I'm sure if i fiddle aroud enough I'll be able to remove the stock headunit and such.. but i'd like some outside information to aide me...

 

My friend wants to bolt the amp on the back of the rear seat.. Would I just bolt it on using screws?
yes BUT bolt it to a wood board that bolted to the seat. you don't want the AMP grounding through the case. It not bad it just might cause noise in the system.
Also where would i route the power / ground leads? I read somewhere that you should router power cable on one side, and all other wires on the other side of the car.
that is BS i know everyone tells you that but don't worry about. If you want an explaination why I'll tell you.
Also... Where would i connect the ground (anywhere on the chassis?)
yes anywhere on a primary car body pannel like a seat bolt or ANY bolt. Just keep the ground short.
and how would i connect the power from the amp to the battery (drill through firewall).
find the car wire harness where it runs through into the fire wall. Look from under the hood. just put a cut in the rubber boot and push your wire through. easy
 

PS.. I am also going to mount the SoloBaric 12L7 into an enclosure. I have the necesarry tools i believe...but what else would i need? When i physically mount the sub into the box, would i need some kind of mold to catch any air leaks and wherw ould I get this / is it included inthe retail box? I haven't seen everything from my friend
is the box carpeted? if yes don't worry about it. If no then go to the hardware store and look for gasket tape[rubber sticky on both sides] or weather stripping[felt or rubber]. One word of caution..... when screwing in the speaker be very very very careful not to slip and punch a hole through the cone. This happens to EVERYONE. you could use a wood board to cover the cone if you need.
 
Originally posted by chris229 yes BUT bolt it to a wood board that bolted to the seat. you don't want the AMP grounding through the case. It not bad it just might cause noise in the system.
As in bolt the amp onto a wooden board then onto the seat, or find a wooden section and bolt the amp there?

that is BS i know everyone tells you that but don't worry about. If you want an explaination why I'll tell you.
Please do I'm interested...

find the car wire harness where it runs through into the fire wall. Look from under the hood. just put a cut in the rubber boot and push your wire through.
Would that mean I would have to physically take apart his dash to get to the firewal??

 
Originally posted by res09ggm  

As in bolt the amp onto a wooden board then onto the seat, or find a wooden section and bolt the amp there?
either is fine the point is to not let power flow from the amps car to the car body.
 

 

 

Please do I'm interested...
k- poeople are wooried the magnetic fields in the power wire are going to induct noise into the rcas. But the amount of power flowing in the wire is directly linked to the amount of signal in the RCA. MEANING--- when there isn't any signal there is barely any power flowing in the wire. As we all know the time we here alt whine is when at mute or low volume--- this is the same time when the current in the wire is at its LEAST. If you think that the power wire can induct noise into your RCAs than what about that other wire that has the same amount of current in it??? the ground-- it's the whole car how you going to stay away from it?. noise is caused a couple ways bad RCAs -- they can't reject the noise anymore. loop area induction-- this refers to the fact of having each channel of a system runing through different fields. Leaking Hu or processor-- noise is leaking through the power supply. Ground loop-- you can just forget about this issue as everyone in car audio is told to play with their grounds SO MUCH that no one in car audio should have a bad ground.-- ground loop is when the power connection for a given unit is bad an current then flows to the next best place the linked proceesor, HU or AMP. as the current flow through the signal wire it make the signal float on it causing noise.
 

 

 

Would that mean I would have to physically take apart his dash to get to the firewal??
no way man look OUTSIDE under the hood for the wire harness. put a little slice in the rubber boot. push the wire through. then look for it under the dash grab it and finish pulling it through. route it under the carpet down along the car into the trunk. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A FUSE ON THE POWER WIRE AT THE BATTERY. If the car get into an accident there will be a big fire without one. Or if the wire gets worn away a big fire will happen too
 
Originally posted by chris229 no way man look OUTSIDE under the hood for the wire harness. put a little slice in the rubber boot. push the wire through. then look for it under the dash grab it and finish pulling it through. route it under the carpet down along the car into the trunk. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A FUSE ON THE POWER WIRE AT THE BATTERY. If the car get into an accident there will be a big fire without one. Or if the wire gets worn away a big fire will happen too
sorry why would there be a fire? and this would mean much fiddling around under the car and under the hood to get to / find the firewall?

Also, would anyone know where i can find a harness and dash kit for the 2003 tiburon? I'm wondering if it's out yet since its a new car. OR can i just use one that's compatible with the 2000/2001? I'm not sure if it'll be compatible cuz new model, bla bla bla, and it comes with the infinity sound system + sub stock... Or can anyone tell me if harness / dash kit for 2000/2001 Tiburon is compatible with the 2003 as well... ok sorry if i confused you.. juss read the last remark...thanks

 
Originally posted by res09ggm sorry why would there be a fire?
cause nothing would turn of the current flowing from the damaged power wire. FIRE
and this would mean much fiddling around under the car and under the hood to get to / find the firewall?
no way man fire wall is the metal wall between the car's cab and the motor you can't miss it . you'll be looking right at it when you open the hook. Find the battery than trace follow the wires that go the fire wall and look for the rubber boot where it passes through the wall.... easy
Also, would anyone know where i can find a harness and dash kit for the 2003 tiburon? I'm wondering if it's out yet since its a new car. OR can i just use one that's compatible with the 2000/2001? I'm not sure if it'll be compatible cuz new model, bla bla bla, and it comes with the infinity sound system + sub stock... Or can anyone tell me if harness / dash kit for 2000/2001 Tiburon is compatible with the 2003 as well... ok sorry if i confused you.. juss read the last remark...thanks
call around some stores.
 
That guy's been right on the money about all the technical stuff about your install....one thing I can tell you from experience though is that the Tiburon is an INSTALLER'S NIGHTMARE....I have a 2000 Tiburon and it is a TOTAL PAIN IN THE *** to install in....the dash is a BIATCH to take apart and the rubber boot he speaks of where the wires go through the firewall is a BIATCH to get to because of the engine being in the way...and the hole does come out behind the dash not in the kick panels....

Also I'm pretty sure the harnesses and stuff from a second generation Tiburon won't work with a third generation Tiburon....

Again this is just my observations and stuff because I have a 00 Tiburon.....have fun and let us know how it turns out...I'd especially be interested because I haven't finished my system yet in mine and I'd like to see how you fared against this ALIEN to an installer....

 
I did an install on a 99 not to long ago. I dunno if they changed it from 99-2000 but I thought it was pretty fing easy...granted I just did a Headunit...but it was a hell of a lot easier than my honda. you might try pulling the carpet back in the front of the car and looking inside up under the dash for the rubber plug in the firewall. yeah all I had to do was pry off the plastic trim ring around the radio, remove the four screws holding the radio in...would have been done in an hour if the jackass who installed the last radio didn't cut off the harness..id like to meet that fvcker who though it would be smart to save 12 bucks on the harness and compromise the persons saftey and equipment.

 
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