2000 Ford Ranger build log

TPABlazer
10+ year member

Senior VIP Member
Alright, long time since I've done any stereo work, and I figured this will take a few weekends (at least!), and since I

Clarion dxz835mp

crystal csc643s 3 way components

2 ed 7kv2's

Jl 300/4

jl 500/1

Kicker 0/1 kit.

A ton of deadener (whenever I order it)

So I've got most of the equipment, just waiting to order the deadener to install everything. However, in the meantime I can do SOME of the work.

This can also be a decent how to on molding plastic panels, since I cant stand cutting into factory stuff without a replacement.

Okay, lets start with some blurry pics of my gear and my sloppy work area, oh and my toe.

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Okay, now that we got that out of the way, lets talk about fiberglassing.

Get a cup like this, plastic, with ounces listed for measurement. They have them at home depot, harbor freight, etc.

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One of my favorite things ever, you squeeze the bottom and MEKP fills the container at the top. Measured in CCs. My MEKP is red, I got it form Select Products a while back, along with the mekp dispenser.

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This bit of chicken scratch is my reminder. I use a ratio of ~4% hardener to resin. I personally like to use smaller, hotter batches, especially when I'm doing small scale work. Using 2% gives ~20 minutes of work time, 4% is closer to 10.

When I'm doing big jobs I use closer to 2% since I dont want to have the cup of resin solidify on me. It's just personal preference, if you are not that good with 'glass, go for a longer work time. If you are doing a lot of layers, do a longer work time and then you can layer a lot with one batch of resin. However, for this project, I dont need more than 2 layers of matte, and I didnt want to sit around waiting for this stuff to dry all day.

*WARNING* Making a batch too hot (too much MEKP will cause you all sorts of trouble. The plastic bowls can melt, the resin can crack, and the project can be ruined rather quickly.

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Other material not pictured: Paint brushes, gloves (LOTS) resin, matte )chop and weave. harbor freight is awesome for gloves and brushes.

Okay, lets get glassing! Not too many action shots, since I was kinda busy.

Proper safety equipment! I found the chem lab goggles dont fog up as much as other glasses.

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Wet 'glass.

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Dried.

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'Glass does not stick to plastic, so it will pop right off.

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Some minor trimming, looks pretty good!

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No plastic was harmed in the making of this thread.

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Okay, a little tip. When you use up a batch, there will always be some left. Take your brush and put it back in the plastic cup.

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Because, when you pull it out, it will pull out all the resin and crap in the cup. It also gives you cool little bits of artwork.

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Clean cup! Saves you the trouble of pulling out dried resin, or having it break off the sides and end up in the wet stuff, then on your project.

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Doh! This cup was showing it's age. A little too hot a batch weakened this spot, and when I tried to pull the brush/resin out, it broke the plastic. Reason number 234234 why you buy extra cups.

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Stock Kick panels

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My glass replicas. Pretty close right!

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Sloppy work area! I didnt want to ruin a piece of wood, so an old rubbermaid lid works. 'Glass doesn't stick to it either.

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Okay, onto the rest of the project. Lets make some baffles.

Yeah, gorilla glue and titebond are cool, but this stuff is my favorite.

CA ( cyanoacrylate) Glue, superglue, whatever. Pick it up at your local hobby shop.

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Get this stuff too. CA accelerant. Turns 5 second glue to 2 second glue. Really helps when gluing supports or just holding a panel in place. I've built boxes with this stuff, and it holds great. Eliminates all the drying time.

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Okay, some jigsawed baffles.

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Where the mid and tweeter are going

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My router table

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Rounded the edges. This does two things: aesthetic improvement when glassed, and it gives the 'glass more surface area to stick to.

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ARRgh, wouldnt be my project without something like this happening. Double check the bit height before you start.

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//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

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Fleece, glued around the panel, in the baffle, etc etc

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Lawnmower doubles as a drying rack

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Reinforcing

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I like to lay the weave matte last, since it gives a much smoother finish. Requires far less sanding at the end.

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Missing a few pictures, slap on some body filler, sand, repeat.

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This was about a day and a half. I have a bunch more body filler to throw on, lots of sanding, then painting!

 
looking forward to see the end product //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
So am I! I'm anxious to get these things done and move on. Thanks for all the compliments, if there are any questions, just ask!

 
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TPABlazer

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