2000.00 System HELP (what can be improved)

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Zrs are fine but deffinatly do not get the comp set, the ZR tweeters ****. Your front stage seperation will be about the same as mine. I mounted in the sail panel, make sure you get tweeters that can handle a 2500hz crossover point. If not the sound stage will be in the floor

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

@hispls;
look dude, i like you, just from what I have sen here so far. I will be the first to speak up and state that Mr. Mantz and Mr. Zeff are 2 of my heroes, by far. Op, wanted to spend 1200 on some comps, 800 on a 6ch amp, 400 on sub/box another 100 on some tweets, at least 300 on dampening material and get it all installed on 200..with a 2k budget.

You add the $ i just mentioned from the op and they total 3k...with a 2k budget

Yea, the first thing I think of when someone wants to really spend $, is the letter Z. But, I would rather use cheaper components that will accomplish the same goal and focus on having those components installed by the best installer I could afford, if I were OP. And that will be expensive.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='quackhead']@hispls;
look dude, i like you, just from what I have sen here so far. I will be the first to speak up and state that Mr. Mantz and Mr. Zeff are 2 of my heroes, by far. Op, wanted to spend 1200 on some comps, 800 on a 6ch amp, 400 on sub/box another 100 on some tweets, at least 300 on dampening material and get it all installed on 200..with a 2k budget.

You add the $ i just mentioned from the op and they total 3k...with a 2k budget

Yea, the first thing I think of when someone wants to really spend $, is the letter Z. But, I would rather use cheaper components that will accomplish the same goal and focus on having those components installed by the best installer I could afford, if I were OP. And that will be expensive.[/QUOTE]

I would agree, but personally would look more to save money on components before amps. Even stellar components get tired LONG before a good amp.

I have seen some pretty low money MADISOUND and PARTSEXPRESS components made to sound great. Really I've seen some cheap package deal comps that actually can be made to sound good with just a better crossover and a good install. IMO you hit the point of diminishing returns with raw drivers a LOT quicker than you do with amps. I have < 300$ into my 3 way fronts and they're all fantastic drivers

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

[quote name='hispls']I would agree, but personally would look more to save money on components before amps. Even stellar components get tired LONG before a good amp.

I have seen some pretty low money MADISOUND and PARTSEXPRESS components made to sound great. Really I've seen some cheap package deal comps that actually can be made to sound good with just a better crossover and a good install. IMO you hit the point of diminishing returns with raw drivers a LOT quicker than you do with amps. I have < 300$ into my 3 way fronts and they're all fantastic drivers[/QUOTE]

alright, allright...you win and yes the drivers are the weakest spot in the chain, most of the time. And yes. parts express/Madisound store would be good options for running active. Having said that, could you direct op to the drivers you would choose for a front 3 way active set up on the LeviathanIII? And possibly build him a sub that would take the full brunt of a MinotaurII (if that were in the cards too), thus ending up with a far superior design than original for less than the original design cost? Perhaps send the ts data to someone more local like @Buck; for a box?
any reputable installers in the Memphis area?
Am I going too far out on a limb here?

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='Flex68']eDead and Dynamat....hmmm. I assume this means you're looking at using the liquid eDead deadener plus Dynamat?
Not awful, and of course I see the standard forum boners, AT and the as-yet-untested MurderMat, have been suggested, but I will say you can do much better for your damping/deadening needs through the use of Don's products at Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information .

It will likely cost a bit more than your planned $330, but you will have a truly dampened/deadened ride when you get done, and the resulting increase in the SQ/SQL will reflect that (pun intended).

The sub is okay...maybe you can do better with the two Adire Koda 8s @whitedragon551 ; has listed, but the TC ain't bad.
Don't know anything about the Morel MDTs, and haven't heard the JL ZR's. However, I don't think you're going to need four of any 6.5s, and you can damn sure save money by going with used components, or with new that aren't JL Audio.
Rainbow , Focal , Morel, HAT , etc are all likely going to be at least as good as the ZRs and prolly at a lower $$

And, finally, as has already been mentioned, the quality of the installation and the enclosure(s) are going to be very important to the overall SQ of the system[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the plug. I love my TC2 based Audiomobile Evo, however if I had the budget to get my box done Id be running the Koda's in my SUV with a 3 way active front stage. I havent experienced an XBL^2 motor, but from the tech papers Ive read I really want to.

 

[ShankyMcPimp 10+ year member]

[quote name='quackhead']alright, allright...you win and yes the drivers are the weakest spot in the chain, most of the time. And yes. parts express/Madisound store would be good options for running active. Having said that, could you direct op to the drivers you would choose for a front 3 way active set up on the LeviathanIII? And possibly build him a sub that would take the full brunt of a MinotaurII (if that were in the cards too), thus ending up with a far superior design than original for less than the original design cost? Perhaps send the ts data to someone more local like @Buck; for a box?
any reputable installers in the Memphis area?
Am I going too far out on a limb here?[/QUOTE]

no you are dead on!!!! I like the amp I have selected with help of "hispls" I may need to hold off on the Minotaur due to budget and add later. Thoughts?
I need help at this point knowing JL alternatives if possible and knowing if these components would work together. I would be open o buying used but how do I know if I am getting a good set of used speakers. that sounds dicey. I like the cheaper jL 6.5 price mentioned earlier. that saves 400. minotaur on hold saves 600.00. getting close.
Also, if anyone knows of a Memphis installer that is good, that would help. I am capable of installing but would need help with the wiring. I can pull the interior and dampen the sound. it is the details that count....
getting nervous... this seems more complicated that i thought.

Thanks all....your help is appreciated....

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

[quote name='ShankyMcPimp']no you are dead on!!!! I like the amp I have selected with help of "hispls" I may need to hold off on the Minotaur due to budget and add later. Thoughts?
I need help at this point knowing JL alternatives if possible and knowing if these components would work together. I would be open o buying used but how do I know if I am getting a good set of used speakers. that sounds dicey. I like the cheaper jL 6.5 price mentioned earlier. that saves 400. minotaur on hold saves 600.00. getting close.
Also, if anyone knows of a Memphis installer that is good, that would help. I am capable of installing but would need help with the wiring. I can pull the interior and dampen the sound. it is the details that count....
getting nervous... this seems more complicated that i thought.

Thanks all....your help is appreciated....[/QUOTE]
you are welcome. like it has been said, focus on your front stage midbass & imaging. All the subwoofer(s) should do is blend in and create the impact and energy we feel in our music. You never go to a concert and stand or sit with your back to the stage, right? When sitting in your car, you want the illusion that the stage is out there in front of you. Anybody can drop in some replacement speakers and crank it into distorted oblivion..but few can create a true stage presence.
Maybe this will help ease the nervousness:
@keep_hope_alive;
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-...on-tc-sq-hertz-audison-pioneer-build-log.html

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-...uvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long.html

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/speakers/555486-going-active.html

 

[ShankyMcPimp 10+ year member]

That looks complicated. If I study it I could do it. Need to do some homework!

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

That looks complicated. If I study it I could do it. Need to do some homework!

yep..And you will enjoy every aspect of it 10x more if you do what you can yourself...it is a lot more fun buying the equipment you want and reaping the fruits of your own labor. Any questions, start a thread and ask them in the category you think they belong, for best results here with advice.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

That looks complicated. If I study it I could do it. Need to do some homework!

Deadening is easy, like playing with heavy stickers. The trick is to cut out holes in the deadener to coordinate with the panel mounting holes. You don't want deadener to interfere with the panels popping back on.

You just strip the interior out, clean the metal, and get to it.

 

[ShankyMcPimp 10+ year member]

Will do. May need help again with wiring and settings from amp to speakers, sq issues

Thanks all. Will post again when I make it through all this and come up for air.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='quackhead']alright, allright...you win and yes the drivers are the weakest spot in the chain, most of the time. And yes. parts express/Madisound store would be good options for running active. Having said that, could you direct op to the drivers you would choose for a front 3 way active set up on the LeviathanIII? And possibly build him a sub that would take the full brunt of a MinotaurII (if that were in the cards too), thus ending up with a far superior design than original for less than the original design cost? Perhaps send the ts data to someone more local like @Buck; for a box?
any reputable installers in the Memphis area?
Am I going too far out on a limb here?[/QUOTE]

DIYCable.com : Intro » Home » Exodus Anarchy »

OK. Start with deadening the hell out of the doors and drop in a pair of these.

If you're not afraid to do a little cutting of door panels, go for a couple of these:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=264-713
Cross @ 2-3Khz

Later when/if you get dedicated sub amp you can use them as dedicated midrange and get a smaller tweeter keeping the Anarchy as midbass only crossing it @ 100hz

I used these in my last car to replace the 4" mids in my old Boston Pro 3 ways with great results. Caveat being you'll need to hook them up and get some sticky tape and really play around with location/aiming before cutting. If you can get them close to on-axis the planars are phenominal. It doesn't take much power to get them screaming loud.

TC sounds at one point prototyped a monster midbass that would cross over very low (1200hz or so IIRC) paired with this planar. I think they went under before they brought it to market, but the principal is sound. Really the only benefit of going 3 way and adding a small dome tweeter would be to put the tweet even higher to bring soundstage up even more.

If you aren't afraid to cut panels or make mounting pods, and have the space, the planars are quite impressive.

If you're not bold enough to do planar just pick a big large-format tweeter that holds a lot of power and has good reviews and stuff it wherever you like.

ANY good 3" coil driver will hold Minotaur. Not knowing OP's goals I really don't have a suggestion, but if you buy XBL^2 or any TC sounds woofer you probably won't be disappionted.

 

[ShankyMcPimp 10+ year member]

Thanks all! I mean it! Shanky