2 low quality vs 1 high quality

I wouldn't worry about the amp so much. From what I've seen on a quick google search a lot of people are saying their 360a2's have birthsheets of around 580 watts. Most of the older RF gear was under-rated, my old P3001 was rated for 300 watts but birthed closed to 400. I went from about 400 to 700 watts and there isn't a huge difference.

Don't be afraid to buy used, the only thing I've bought new has been my wiring and my components. So far the list is at:

2x Infinity 1230 Reference series subs - eBay

RF P3001 - eBay

Kicker Sx1250.1 - Canadiancaraudio.com

Kicker SX600.2 - Here

Kicker SXRC - Here

Total I've paid 1000 (I did overpay on the 1250 a fair bit, but I didn't have to worry about duty and it was nearly brand new). If I had bought all that gear locally it would easily have been over 3K. I haven't had a single issue yet, just make sure the person has ref's and to make sure he actually has the gear get a pic with user name on it.

 
Here would be a couple good setups for an upgrade, total asking price under 400 shipped.
Amp

Hifonics BXi1206D - 150 shipped by trez0r (just noticed that was + shipping)

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297531

Sub

BNIB 12" SSA Icon - 225 shipped by lilmaniac

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297859

or

an Fi SSD with copper coils would be under 200 shipped new.
Depninding on his airspace this would be a better sub if he can fit it

http://www.diycable.com/main/default.php?cPath=24_93

Shiva 12 or tempest 15.

 
why all of a sudden start giving out ideas for a new setup. When he doesnt have to right now....for what he is use to what he has if he goes ported will be enough if not more, just by building a different enclosure.

Im sure eventually he will want more as we all do, but then he can begin to upgrade.

With the sub/amp combo suggested he is most likely gonna need a new battery

 
With the sub/amp combo suggested he is most likely gonna need a new battery
Not necessarily, My car (see user name) has completely stock electrical, small battery and a 85A ( at most) alt. I'm running a Kicker SX1250.1, and a SX600.2 and get dimming but never goes below 13 volts, have to do big 3 this spring.

 
There is a major difference betwen listening for audible differences in a direct side-by-side comparison (turning your volume knob up or down) and doing a true blind A/B comparison. Swapping out components and listening for differences is not nearly as easy as many people think. They think because they can hear the difference in a single click of the volume adjustment, that they must have golden ears and are special.

 
OK, let me clarify a few things. First, I would like to gain some space by running a single sub. Second, I do not want more output, just cleaner, more precise (punchy) bass. I am just looking for a little bass to compliment my speakers. My h/u stays set at 0, the bass knob on the amp stays all the way down. Third, I like the fosgate amp, but is it old, and some reason I cant get the gains to work out (they just happened to be within a volt of the target voltage), which is why I was considering a new one. Building a sealed enclosure will be tough for me, I dont know that I could do a ported (atleast decently) since this will be my first box. Again, SQ and space make me want to stay sealed. Sounds like I need to atleast sell the JBL's and get started. Do you all think it will be worth it for gains in quality?

 
So either get a decent 1k on the subs you have now, this can be done for under $200.

Or find a single 12 that will like the 400rms from the 360.1

Starting over might be kinda costly compared to these options.

Plenty of options for small box on 400watts even the Ed K series would work well with that power.

Look into those MB quart subs that have been on Egay, Though I dont know if they come in a 10"

Dayton 10" from Parts espress is a pretty good performer as well.

 
Not necessarily, My car (see user name) has completely stock electrical, small battery and a 85A ( at most) alt. I'm running a Kicker SX1250.1, and a SX600.2 and get dimming but never goes below 13 volts, have to do big 3 this spring.
you sir are a rare exception....and still I find it hard to believe you are running 1800watts all on stock.....

 
I am probably staying around 400-500 watts. Most of the time my bass can not be heard outside the car. I am going for sq, not spl, and dont care about loudness. The 2 10's put out plenty for me, one 10 would probably do fine. Would a higher quality sub be worth it? I know the fosgate has been rated up to 600 watts, but isnt that max and not rms? Thanks.

 
Fosgate does almost 500 RMs on actual birthsheet from RF that comes in the box.

Just find a nice 10 -12" that will work on 400 in a small sealed box and your set. Keep Rf amp and then upgrade later if needed.

 
Fosgate does almost 500 RMs on actual birthsheet from RF that comes in the box.
Just find a nice 10 -12" that will work on 400 in a small sealed box and your set. Keep Rf amp and then upgrade later if needed.
OK, I think this has finished answering my question. I am gonna try to move my JBL's so I can start on something new, and right now IDQ looks good. I thought that 500-600 on the birthsheet was max, not rms. The IDQ10 says 500 watts rms, and I have heard can take much more. I am still considering upgrading amp if opportunity arises. Anyway, do you all think a good quality 10 (IDQ10v3 or FI sub maybe) would do well enough to suit me? I think a single 10 would do fine because I keep my 2 10's turned down a lot. Thanks for all the help guys.

 
I am really looking at the IDQ10v3, or preferably the IDQ12v2 or one of the FI subs. Since it would be smaller, would the IDQ 10 be better sounding than the 12v2? How do those two compare to the FI subs in that price range ($200)? Thanks for all of your help.

 
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