2 amps 1 power cable

Stephenpvand

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I currently have 2 amps in my truck one is done correctly has 4 gauge wiring from battery and is a 1600w max power my 4 door speakers (rockville rxa-f1). The other is a cheap ass 600 watt max running off of some random power cable powering my sub. I want to upgrade my sub and amp to keep up with my speakers now. Planning on getting a skar sdr10 sub and the skar lp-750 and run the sub at 2ohms. Only thing I have a question about is if the original 4 gauge from the battery will be enough to power both with a distribution block. Any tips or advice just so i dont have to run another cable through the firewall.
 
Depends. Is it 4 gauge CCA or OFC?
20' run of 4 gauge CCA is rated around 70 amps.
4 gauge OFC is rated around 100 amps.


But I would never recommend Skar to anyone but if you are dead set of running it wire to 1 ohm with a D2 subwoofer. Not 2 ohms on a dual 4 ohm sub.

I would upgrade to some 1/0 CCA at least. Headroom is always a good thing.
 
Last edited:
Depends. Is it 4 gauge CCA or OFC?
20' run of 4 gauge CCA is rated around 70 amps.
4 gauge OFC is rated around 100 amps.


But I would never recommend Skar to anyone but if you are dead set of running it wire to 1 ohm with a D2 subwoofer. Not 2 ohms on a dual 4 ohm sub.

I would upgrade to some 1/0 CCA at least. Headroom is always a good thing.
Its a
Depends. Is it 4 gauge CCA or OFC?
20' run of 4 gauge CCA is rated around 70 amps.
4 gauge OFC is rated around 100 amps.


But I would never recommend Skar to anyone but if you are dead set of running it wire to 1 ohm with a D2 subwoofer. Not 2 ohms on a dual 4 ohm sub.

I would upgrade to some 1/0 CCA at least. Headroom is always a good thing.
The power cable is less than 15 ft long but is cca. and with both of those amps the amperage would be about 75-80 at max power but my rxa-f1 is only running at about half power so im guessing its total draw with the skar amp would be about 60amps on the 4 gauge wire. So would that be ok or just upgrade to a 0gauge to a distribution block and then 4 gauge to both amps to be safe.

Also whats your reason behind not liking skar? They seem decent I only hear good things about them and the price is perfect for my price range. 600 watt rms 10 in and amp for around $200-250

Also not to sure on the difference of d4 or d2 only thing I really found or understood was that d4 is a little more reliable but d2 can be wired to 1 ohm for more power but less reliable?
 
You will probably be fine after impedance rise causing you to draw even less amperage. Just make sure the 4 gauge is fused correctly incase the wire can't take the amperage.

It's a long story but Kevin the owner of Skar is a POS. Skar equipment is very cheaply made in China.

D4 and D2 differences are only the impedance(ohm load) no difference at all in reliability.

Running the dual 2 ohm at 1 ohm on that amp will help you to combat box rise and help get a little more power to it.
 
You will probably be fine after impedance rise causing you to draw even less amperage. Just make sure the 4 gauge is fused correctly incase the wire can't take the amperage.

It's a long story but Kevin the owner of Skar is a POS. Skar equipment is very cheaply made in China.

D4 and D2 differences are only the impedance(ohm load) no difference at all in reliability.

Running the dual 2 ohm at 1 ohm on that amp will help you to combat box rise and help get a little more power to it.
What fuse would you recommend for running both because right now it has a 60amp fuse should i upgrade it to say 80-100?

Also thanks for the ohm knowledge when I asked skar about which amp to run on the sdr10 they recommended the d4 sub and 750 amp so I was just going with their knowledge but Ide rather get some more power out of the d2!
And if you have any suggestions on 10in subs and amp with about that power or equivalent specs and price Id be glad to hear it. skar was just my main idea for the setup not dead set on it at all.
 
I would keep the 60 in it if the wire came with a 60 amp.

Lol that's funny they told you to get a D4 for a 1 ohm stable amp. There is a pretty good joke about how Kevin from skar could never do the most simple math. Guess his employees aren't too knowledgeable as well.

You can wait some some others to chime in on here to get different opinions as well.

With a $250 budget for subwoofer and amp I personally would do a Taramps MD 1200 2ohm ($170) and two Blaupunkt GBW120 12"s ($38 each). If you can fit two 12s.

I would for sure upgrade to some 4 gauge OFC or 1/0 CCA to a D block and run 4 gauge to your amps with the MD1200 amp though.
 
I would keep the 60 in it if the wire came with a 60 amp.

Lol that's funny they told you to get a D4 for a 1 ohm stable amp. There is a pretty good joke about how Kevin from skar could never do the most simple math. Guess his employees aren't too knowledgeable as well.

You can wait some some others to chime in on here to get different opinions as well.

With a $250 budget for subwoofer and amp I personally would do a Taramps MD 1200 2ohm ($170) and two Blaupunkt GBW120 12"s ($38 each). If you can fit two 12s.

I would for sure upgrade to some 4 gauge OFC or 1/0 CCA to a D block and run 4 gauge to your amps with the MD1200 amp though.
I can only fit 1 10 I have a 12 in in a 1.5 cu in box rn that sounds decent but defiantly need more so i want to use the same box and just refit the top board to hold a 10 and the box takes up almost more room than i want it to so i cant go any larger with the box but ill take a look at the amp for sure thanks for the help and yea will probably upgrade and just go with 0gauge ofc wire to be on the safe side dont want any fires haha and with my less than professional wiring job will feel a little safer
 
Fuse for the wire, not the device. The amp will have its own fuse to protect it. The wire fuse is there not only to protect it from an over draw, but also a short circuit. The aim is to not let more current through than the wire can handle.
 
Fuse for the wire, not the device. The amp will have its own fuse to protect it. The wire fuse is there not only to protect it from an over draw, but also a short circuit. The aim is to not let more current through than the wire can handle.
So the wire came with the 60amp fuse but to run both amplifiers properly I believe I would need around 70 amps so would it be unsafe to upgrade the fuse becuase the wire itself cant handle more than 60 amps anyways?
 
Correct. But you will most likely never pull 70 amps IRL. Never put a larger fuse in the wire than what it came with though. It came with a 60 because the wire can only support 60 amps.
 
Correct. But you will most likely never pull 70 amps IRL. Never put a larger fuse in the wire than what it came with though. It came with a 60 because the wire can only support 60 amps.
So if your saying that I wont pull above 60 amps anyways with those 2 amps anyways theres no need to upgrade to 0gauge?
 
So if your saying that I wont pull above 60 amps anyways with those 2 amps anyways theres no need to upgrade to 0gauge?
Agree with the above. I upgraded to a 5 channel amp after my 4 channel **** itself. I ran 4 gauge to the 4 channel. I'm gonna get the other two channels on the 5 channel in action soon, but not running new power wire even thought it's more powerful. Reason being is that I don't really drive it that hard (I like music so much that I don't want to go deaf because of it). I have a lot of head room on my amp. But if the fuse does blow, I'll put a new one in of the same amperage. If it blows again, I'll upgrade the wire.
 
Agree with the above. I upgraded to a 5 channel amp after my 4 channel **** itself. I ran 4 gauge to the 4 channel. I'm gonna get the other two channels on the 5 channel in action soon, but not running new power wire even thought it's more powerful. Reason being is that I don't really drive it that hard (I like music so much that I don't want to go deaf because of it). I have a lot of head room on my amp. But if the fuse does blow, I'll put a new one in of the same amperage. If it blows again, I'll upgrade the wire.
Alright thanks my 4 channel rockville amp isnt being pushed too hard rn like 70% gain but its got alot left in it when i turn it up. but when I upgrade my sub setup i will be pushing that amp as much as the sub can handle haha but ill just wait on upgrading the wire for now thanks for the input really couldnt find a clearish answer about running just the 4gauge for both of those power amps.
 
I would avoid CCA. You need to go up a size compared to OFC and the cost savings isn't much. Do it right the first time.
Use good wire too (knuconceptz) not that cheap stuff to where the casing is thick and the wire isn't the true gauge.
 
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