2 - 15" or 4-12" ??

Port driver subs passenger.. Sorry
so your saying port ( drivers side ) ?

ok i took mesurements last night. they could be off by 1" as i did not use a strait edge .

this is were the baffle will be.

45" w

39 1/2 h ( from top of driveshaft tunnel up.

55" deep. ( thats from baffle to tailgate )

also 44" from dash to baffle .

also need to say, ill have to use mdf as nice ply is $50 a sheet.

mdf is like $35 a sheet.

 
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should i do 2 layers or 3 for the walls.

i plan on fiberglassing the hole inside of the box.

and not just resin but fiberglass.

also does anybody have some links to some great wall builds ?

i have been looking on youtube, and have found some.

but all i can read, and watch is better..

as i have never built a wall. i have build boxes in the past. but no walls.

and paper,

if you can help that would be so great.

 
i highly suggest you use a good PLY. why? its about 3x stiffer.double layer baffle is fine but there is no replacement for proper bracing. i've used threaded steel rods with lockwashers and the square washers(more surface area to brace)with a-lot of success.

another cool trick ill share with you as a strengthener/filler to fiberglass is mix your glass with the sawdust from the wood. you dont really need to use the actual glass cloth in this case unless you absolutely want to. another thing ill share with in is take your circular saw and scar the wood lightly maybe 1/8" deep. this gives you MUCH more surface area to bond the fiberglass to the wood and greatly increases strength of the wood/glass compound. as for bracing. brace closes to the subs as possible where little wood/material exist and areas where the highest amounts of surface area exist.

round your corners with small cuts of wood cut at 45 degrees(4-5 inches in width is fine) on each side and pay attention to resistance in air flow from behind the subs into the port and into the cabin.

 
if you use 6 12s you can go 45wx38hx23d with a port running along the bottom 42W(internal)x5(internal;double baffled)Hx15L and 5(internal;double baffel as well)x12 for the L portion.. i prefer to build the face of the box to cover the port. this lets you screw through the face INTO the port wall. its easier this way.. so the face should be 45x31.5 the back should be 45x38 then top and bottom should be 45x20 and the sides should be 20x35..

split the port into 3 even sections of 13.5. brace the port with 2 pieces 5"w x 20" long and 2 peaces 5"w x 12" long..

measure 13.5 from one edge inside the port draw a line and flush the braces even with that line so it measures 13.5 inside to inside.. repeat for the next peace.. the 3 port holes should all measure 13.5 inside to inside.. this will brace the **** out of the port/box and help breakup standing waves.

double baffle everything except for the port braces. its going to be PLENTY strong.. the port bracing will lower you tuned to about 35 and should give you right at 12 cubes with 33.75 per woofer which is plenty..

in each corner of the box. cut a peace of wood 45 degrees on each side 5 inches wide. screw then into each corner including the ports corner.. this helps increase output and lower group delay.

use a brace between each set of subs.

Note bass box pro is stupid sometimes. im gonna triple check..

 
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6%2012s%20box%20for%20blazer_zpsreulp6pg.png


 

---------- Post added at 06:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 AM ----------

 

thats gonna BANG B.. droolin

 
OMG.............

thank you so much..

i wish i lived closer i would take you up on that...

and ya i have dont the saw dust before and i alway ruffin up when i fiberglass.

i take a 6" sanding disk on a 90% drill with 40grit paper and dig into the surface...

so were on the same page there...lol

ok i need to read your post a few times to get it..lol

what is group delay ?

i never heard that before.

ill look it up but...

and i truly thank you and jeff for the help.....

if you guys need anything let me know.. if i can do it i will..

 
o and on the good ply... it expensive here...

if you think 2 layers ill try and get it.

and yes i want to use it, but damm $50 a sheet.

i was thinking mdf, with fiberglassing, bracing.....

i dont like the weight of mdf.

im glad i added air shocks as im going to need it lol

 
that group delay is confusing for sure.

is it only a problem with multiple subs ?

also i keep reading and im not sure what you mean my rounding the corners with cuts of 45's ??

and you say to add braces in between the sets of subs. but there's rods there ?

i seen a vid were they used 2/4 in between the subs for bracing. not sure if i have that kind of room.

and im sure ill have more ?'s as i go.

thanks.

 
popwar,i just was on your youtube channel.

and was watch the vid with 4-18" and 20k .

damm that was getting down.

you still running that system?


that was in like 2006 or 07.. I stopped competing because i didn't like a fart machine.. its time to get back since they do music classes now. me and my friends just had musical systems

 
that group delay is confusing for sure.
is it only a problem with multiple subs ?

also i keep reading and im not sure what you mean my rounding the corners with cuts of 45's ??

and you say to add braces in between the sets of subs. but there's rods there ?

i seen a vid were they used 2/4 in between the subs for bracing. not sure if i have that kind of room.

and im sure ill have more ?'s as i go.

thanks.
that drawing is to scale.. it all fits b //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif see the yellow squares? that the actual size of the square washers and the woofer are to size as well. the yellow is where you put the threaded steel rods. at least 3/4 BTW.. you put on each side insdie the box a flat washer lock washer and a nut on the inside and outside and tighten it till you flatten the lock washers...

 
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