1st Setup question about wire, distro blocks, etc

uz1290
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Hi just posting my first thread about my first setup on this website. Well my main concerns right now are how i will run my 2 rockford fosgate power 1500.1bd properly to power my 2 power hx2. I already ordered wire to do the big 3 upgrade and have some 0 ga lying around the house so im going to use that to run to my amps. Where im lost is what size of fuse should i run inline from battery to the amps. I have a distribution block of handling 2 150 amp afs fuses since the rms ratings on the amps is 1500, so would i run a 300 amp fuse to the battery? Also since the input of the distro block is 0ga, i would have to output 4ga to each amp correct? Is there any way to run thicker wire to the amps? Please bear with me its my 1st setup and hope to hear some recommendations and help. Thanks

 
even with the big 3 your going to need another battery in the back
Im planning on that , but for now i think ill just replace my stock battery with a red top, what do you think? I thought a battery in the back could only work if you ran a battery isolator which would mean that it would work only while the vehicle was off or is there another way to wire it?

 
no isolator treat the extra battery just like an amp, run the amps off of it. you will not be able to run both those amps on stock only. you will low voltage cook them. they are extremely power hungry. you need about 300 amps of current minimum so 2 80-100 ah batts are in order.

 
Power hx2's are dual 2 ohm subs. The amp you're running is a 2 ohm stable amp. This means you're going to be running a single sub to each amp. 1 ohm on a 2 ohm stable amp is going to cause you problems. I recommend selling one of those amps and putting the money toward a high output alternator.

Even if you get extra batts, you're going to fry your alternator quickly.

 
Dont get a red top' date=' better off buying a kinetik, xs power, etc. some kind of good deep cycle.[/quote']
Thanks for the advice, now i know in what direction to head. I noticed that kinetik batteries were the cheapest of the recommendations you mentioned, but they are still reliable correct? because i've always heard good things about them.
 
Power hx2's are dual 2 ohm subs. The amp you're running is a 2 ohm stable amp. This means you're going to be running a single sub to each amp. 1 ohm on a 2 ohm stable amp is going to cause you problems. I recommend selling one of those amps and putting the money toward a high output alternator. Even if you get extra batts, you're going to fry your alternator quickly.
I was actually thinking about selling both to buy a more powerful amp because i think i'd be underpowering the subs since they are rated at 1000 watts rms @ 1 ohm, and i think the amp are only stable of running at 2 ohms like you stated. So i really have no idea of how i'd run both subs on 1 amp. Somewhere i read that there was no problem running it at 1 ohm or could this have been another power 1500.1bd amp? I have the old school greyish black one if that helps.

 
kinetik and shuriken are the same batteries if you want 1 get me the model of kinetik you want i can beat the price //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^x's 2

red and yellow tops are great for a car but junk for car audio
Thanks for the heads up. I have a 99 gmc sierra and have always run into the problem that the **** batteries available usually just have side posts and not both which include the top as well. I looked up some batteries and saw the kinetik hc180 and hc2400, which would you recommend for my truck? Also these batteries only have top post from what i can see in the pictures right?

 
no isolator treat the extra battery just like an amp, run the amps off of it. you will not be able to run both those amps on stock only. you will low voltage cook them. they are extremely power hungry. you need about 300 amps of current minimum so 2 80-100 ah batts are in order.
Ok so just to clarify myself, i would run the postive wire directly from the battery in the front and instead of connecting it to an amp just connect to the additional battery as well as ground it somewhere? Then from the additional battery just run my pos and neg to the amp? If i bought two batteries would i just wire like in order where the power positve wire would just continue to the other battery and get my pos and neg to power the other amp?

 
Ok so just to clarify myself, i would run the postive wire directly from the battery in the front and instead of connecting it to an amp just connect to the additional battery as well as ground it somewhere? Then from the additional battery just run my pos and neg to the amp? If i bought two batteries would i just wire like in order where the power positve wire would just continue to the other battery and get my pos and neg to power the other amp?
exactly pos to pos neg to neg or ground either 1.

i would do at least 1 battery under hood a 2400 or if 2 batts an 1800 under hood and a 600 or 800 at the amps.

decide what ya want then pm me and ill get ya a price i will need a zip code.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
kinetik and shuriken are the same batteries if you want 1 get me the model of kinetik you want i can beat the price //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
I think i should go with a hc2400 just to be safe, i wish i could get a xs power d3100 but hell im kind of short on money and barely turned 16 so im going to find a job lol. Plus still need to save up for an h/o alt since many people have already suggested it. I really dont care if its used just as long as it looks decent. Some guy is selling me a hc1400 for 175 but i think thats too small for the truck. Thanks for the help:)

 
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uz1290

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